How to replace injectors guide?

[codeman]

I searched the forum and couldn't find what I was looking for.
I have an 83 US Rabbit diesel and I was wanting to replace the fuel injectors as I believe they're original and I'm getting quite a lot of smoke from the exhaust.  Is there a how to guide that includes part numbers?  From my readings online it looks like a seal and heat shield need to be replaced as well but I can't find the proper part numbers.  Are there O rings on the high pressure fuel lines coming off the Bosch pump?  I'd like to get all of the parts before tearing things open.

Thank you.

[ORCoaster]

Having an 81 with the old type of injectors I really am at a loss for helping you.  I would think U-tube would have a video on them for sure. 

[fatmobile]

'81 and '83 should use the same injectors.

 There are heat shields that need replaced,...
 
or reformed.
I use a ball bearing and socket in a vice to put the old heat shield back to normal then check to see if I cracked it.

There are no o-rings at the end of the lines.

 Careful removing them, don't pull them forward and break the front of the injector bosses off the head.
 
Retorque to 52 ftlbs.
 You can use a 1 1/16" 12 point socket if you don't have the right metric 1/2" drive deep socket.

[ORCoaster]

That being said by Fatmobile I could swap them out in a heartbeat.  I was thrown by the O-rings question I guess.

I use a metric socket and a long straight bar to get them out.  ALWAYS push towards the head, NEVER pull towards the front of the car.  The head may crack at the injector location and then you are toasted. 

I use a pair of vice grip pliers to get the ball and socket to reform the old sheilds.  You can be real selective with the pinch by only turning the tightening knob a quarter or half turn at the time.  I place the reformed heat sheild on the injector and look for a faint line of daylight at the edges.  If I see that then I know the center is touching and when I put the proper torque on it all is seated well.

[fatmobile]

 Right ORcoaster.
They are pretty easy to push back into where they were when new.
 It's nice to have a new one for reference but it's basically like you said just make sure you can see light between the injector and outer edge.

I don't even like pushing toward the head.
 I like a good twisting motion, holding the end of the breaker straight up from the injector and don't let it push to the side.
 A T-handle would be a good example. Or using an impact to break it loose but not remove it.
 

[codeman]

Thank you for the help.

Does anyone have a part number for the heat shield?

And is there anything special about the rubber pieces connecting the fuel injectors?  Can I just take some normal 'rubber' hose and silicon the end closed?

Is using an impact gun advisable for removing the injectors? (obviously not installing them)

[ORCoaster]

Can't say I have ever seen a part no. for those heat shields.  I think Rock Auto has them listed.

I have a ton of used ones so if one gets a crack in it I toss it and get another. 

You need to connect the injectors back to the IP in some manner.  I use a Tee between the second and third cylinder as it lines up better with my pump and other hoses.  You can get 3.5 mm hose that is fuel rated and join them up.  As for the far end one?  They do have a special plug for that but a piece of hose with a bolt in it works just fine for me. 

Those hoses take the fuel that was not used for combustion back to the pump where it can get routed back to the tank and then back to the pump for a second try. 

Impact gun is an option for removal.  Just be sure you have the right sized socket and hold it firmly.  Don't want it bouncing off injector. 

[fatmobile]

 Right, I put a T in between the #3 and 4.
Actually I run a line from 1 to 4 and have a T in it for the line that goes back to the pump.
 Instead of plugging the end one.
 You can put the T anywhere so you can pick a place where it lines up but doesn't rub on anything.
I often use clear vinyl for those lines,.. 1/8".

  AutohausAZ is pretty good about keeping the part number next to the part: 068130219
https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog/c/vw/1985/1282788-jetta_gl/22-fuel_air_system/6060-diesel_injector_heat_shield?s=d&page=1
Damn, $10 each. That's the highest price I've seen.
 Glad I have a stash of them.

 I would only use an impact to break it loose.
 A very short burst.
 And that's only if I was having a problem breaking it loose by hand.
 Just hold that extension straight up from it.
The impact was more an example of a force that doesn't pull the injector in any sideways direction.
Just twist them out.

 

[codeman]

Can't say I have ever seen a part no. for those heat shields.  I think Rock Auto has them listed.

I have a ton of used ones so if one gets a crack in it I toss it and get another. 

You need to connect the injectors back to the IP in some manner.  I use a Tee between the second and third cylinder as it lines up better with my pump and other hoses.  You can get 3.5 mm hose that is fuel rated and join them up.  As for the far end one?  They do have a special plug for that but a piece of hose with a bolt in it works just fine for me. 

Those hoses take the fuel that was not used for combustion back to the pump where it can get routed back to the tank and then back to the pump for a second try. 

Impact gun is an option for removal.  Just be sure you have the right sized socket and hold it firmly.  Don't want it bouncing off injector.

Thanks for the tips.  I noticed your user name, are you on the Oregon coast?  I'm in Bay City.

[ORCoaster]

Yeppers,  Two air miles from the big pond.  Just down from Reedsport.

[Dakotakid]

Impact gun on removal of injectors??
First, I choked on my own spit.
THEN, I laughed so hard I crapped my pants.
Is this Vortex? Vortex 2.0?

[ORCoaster]

Once they are loose with a breaker bar why not make it easy on yourself?  I was thinking a battery operated driver I guess not an air impact gun.  Maybe I need to edit that. 

I use that driver all the time as I am in construction and it sure saves the time extracting lag bolts and 6 inch deck screws.