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broken exhaust manifold stud
scrounger:
Made a 40-mile road trip today.
On the way back it started ticking eventually making more and more noise.
When I got it limped back into the garage and cooled down, I found the driver's side top exhaust manifold/cylinder head stud was broken and of course, no nut.
A year ago I found the same nut missing and I screwed on a new one. It has been quiet till today.
I think I can get my welder in there and weld on a nut and extract the broken stud. I have done it before on other projects. The heat from welding seems to loosen up the grip between the stud and head.
Looking to change the gasket. It looks like I'm needing the downpipe off and intake doesn't it?
Any comments?
Thanks.
ORCoaster:
You may be able to get all the nuts off the exhaust manifold without removing the downpipe and slipping new gaskets between the head and the manifold. Soak all nuts with penetrating oil overnight. Even the downpipe, just in case it needs to come off too.
libbydiesel:
On the TD, you need all the stock exhaust manifold hardware including (especially) the special super-thick washers, or you will be fighting with broken/loosened ex manifold hardware repeatedly. An added brace to triangulate the turbo helps also.
scrounger:
That is what I figured. I never liked the turbo and headpipe cantilevered off those 8, 8mm studs. Our road is gravel rough and the car has stiff springing. Like the idea of triangular bracing.
scrounger:
Does anyone have a preference of what brand or model of gasket I am thinking of something extra thick to take up any wear on the port. Any dimensions of exhaust studs.
Last time I replaced the down pipe I used some 2" exhaust clamps that I took off my tractor
Any pics of a manifold/turbo to block brace?
I fix stuff but in no way consider myself a mechanic.
Before I take anything apart am going to try and degrease the back side of the motor and then use penetrating oil on the nuts.
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