Gotta Do a clutch etc etc

[monst]

 
      Hello,

   It has been a while.........

  I am doing a clutch in a 91 jetta NA........Diesel....

     Any tips....   and tricks??  to make life easier....

    AND if you can recommend   any  clutch kits....... / brands......
  She is a great running little NA......  did the head gasket..... recently... and had injection pump rebuilt(stock)....

thanks, Monst

[libbydiesel]

Fairly easy clutch to change due to the trans being so light.  Brand - Sachs, Luk?  You should consider a few other items while you're at it:  engine rear main seal, trans input shaft seal, clutch pushrod seal AND bushing.  Flywheel to crank bolts are single use, so get those at the same time.  I would replace the pressure plate and have the flywheel resurfaced.   Make sure the machinist has the tooling and skills required to turn the rabbit style flywheel as they are quite unique.  I would also replace the throw out bearing.  You'll want a replacement end cap for the end of the trans as pulling it will ruin it when you access the throw out bearing.  I would also consider it a fine time to replace the trans fluid.  Be aware of the atypical (incorrect) fill hole location and fill to the correct level.  You might also consider repacking the CV's and obviously replacing any boots that need it.  Etc...     

[ORCoaster]

All good advice.  He probably didn't budget for all the parts though.  Still, once you invest the time to get that trans out the other items are but a few extra hours of work. 

[monst]

Ahhh!   Beautifully said!

I will make my list. from your post....

And pose  more questions as I go..........  THanks! Lib

   Can you elaborate on the  turning of a "rabbit style" flywheel...  So I can explain...
to the macheen-ist......  Not sure.....  He is quite younger than the times.....
These.... Older cars.......  they don't necessarily get to visit these situations(machinists).... So they just don't kno... due to lack of experience in the setting.......
Monst

[libbydiesel]

On the Rabbit/Golf/Jetta, the pressure plate bolts to the crankshaft and then the flywheel bolts onto the pressure plate opposite the 'normal' order of things.  The  center of the flywheel is then a large open hole.

[stolen pics]




The large hole in the center can make machining the flywheel a bit problematic.  Also, very important, is that the surface that mates to the pressure plate (shown in the second pic) must have the dowel pins removed and be machined to the proper specification from the machined friction surface.  If not done correctly, the pressure plate will not grip the disc properly. 

 

[fatmobile]

 Right, it's not just a flat flywheel.
 There are inside corners that need to be reached into.
 ...and like libby said; 2 surfaces to machine.

 Pull that green end cap, remove the clutch bearing and slide a piece of 5/16" rod down the tube.
 Lean the tip against the side and you'll feel when you hit the bushing.
 Hit it with a hammer and drive the pushrod tube bushing and seal out the other end.
 Kind of a trick to countersink the new pushrod tube seal 1mm below the end of the tube.

 Support the engine from above with a board across the engine bay and make it so you can lower the engine.
 Or it won't clear the d-side engine bay enough to pull the trany from the engine.
 I like to pull the trany separate, not the whole engine.

[monst]

Thanks!..Lib...   Glad I asked(I think....)

       You gotta do what you gotta do....
Thanks! for the shots on the flywheel.... and procedural info......  I will start asking around.... See where I can get this done...
                        (what is the cost for a new flywheel?-offhand if you kno)

     Fmobl....... The clutch bearing.....( AKA??:: throwout bearing)
                         Pushrod tube bushing and seal......(clutch bearing slides down tube??)
                                    Thanks.... I am not able visualize this..(I can see why you would want to do it... but..[parts the wear].) ... being I have never seen it before......
                                           (input shaft and clutch engagement and disengagement etc. -- seeing the the shifter fork is way back--near green cap......)
                             
                       Be cool if I could see an exploded view.....(if you can elaborate some more... thanks! much appreciated..)
           
         Done clutches on many vehicles......  I think I have had/ owned only a half dozen Autos in my life.... all the others have been sticks..70? 80?+ lost count.
                                                   So yeah, this being the first VW clutch....(got two of these cars at the moment - this one nearin' 300k.-- in it's mid life crisis.... [that's all it is!)

Monst

[libbydiesel]

The clutch release lever on the side of the trans rotates a shaft and on that shaft is a short 'finger' that pushes onto the clutch release bearing.  On the other side of the clutch release bearing is the clutch pushrod.  That pushrod runs through the middle of the transmission input shaft and rides in a bronze bushing that is pressed into the shaft on the engine side.  There is also a small seal that seals around that clutch pushrod.

Look here:  http://www.brokevw.com/releasearm.html

[monst]

Thanks!

         That helps alot.........
I got homework to do.....Time to dig in....

Should have the tranny down today......
      Will put a call into the Local import parts guys.... see if they know of a machinist  for the flywheel.....
thanks again.....

[monst]

-----------------------------------Fmble--------------------------------------
Pull that green end cap, remove the clutch bearing and slide a piece of 5/16" rod down the tube.
 Lean the tip against the side and you'll feel when you hit the bushing.
 Hit it with a hammer and drive the pushrod tube bushing and seal out the other end.
 Kind of a trick to countersink the new pushrod tube seal 1mm below the end of the tube.

 Support the engine from above with a board across the engine bay and make it so you can lower the engine.
 Or it won't clear the d-side engine bay enough to pull the trany from the engine.
 I like to pull the trany separate, not the whole engine.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------END Fmbl---------------------------------------------
From how this is posted..by Fatmobile..

    The idea appears to be, to :::::  (the order of things here  as posted by Fmble)

              Paraphrasing:: With  Use of the 5/16" rod   to remove the bushing and seal before removing  (separating) tranny from engine(leaving engine in vehicle)
                     
               Mysummation::: So this will pop the seal and bushing out
                     and then when pressure plate is loosened from crank... this seal and bushing can be retrieved.... Bcuz... that is where is popped out to
                    when it was tapped out by the 5/16" rod,,,,,,,,,,,   Correct?
                         That is my question
               
                       I have a decent engine over head support method ....  should be able to do any necessary tilting.... etc.  etc.....
                         
Thanks! Monst

[libbydiesel]

I don't think that Fatmobile's post was meant to be sequential.  Remove the trans before removing the end cap, clutch pushrod, seal, and bushing. 

[monst]

 Ok,

       great!......  I will do it on the bench.

[fatmobile]

 Right support the engine so it can lower.
 Then pull the trany.

 Then remove the green end cover, if it looks good I reuse it with some form-a-gasket 2 stuff that doesn't harden.
 After it's removed you'll see the clutch release bearing. Remove that and the pushrod.
 Theeeen use the 5/16" rod down the pushrod tube to drive the bushing and seal out. Clean that tube.

[monst]

Thnks! Fo' the headZup...

   Yeah,  I will try and pull the cap gracefully....
Maybe I can reuse it..........

Monst

[monst]

   So I am in the process of removing transaxle.

  My problem is the back side of the passenger (right) drive flange...

It continues to get hung up on the fly wheel while attempting to slide back the transaxle.

     Then I can not continue outward.  I see no mention of removing drive flange... in the book...

                  I really don't want to think that the option is removing the flange.....  Must be a way around this

     (added note here:  I did leave one motor mount attached.... this is the mount under the intake and the exhaust....
                                    It would be easy enough to remove this mount as well,, being that the intake and exhaust
                                    have been removed.........
                                          The engine is attached to an overhead come-along...
                                               (but probably not balanced enough.. front end of engine will need some support
                                    I could easily lower both to the ground or just lower more than what I have the ability
                                to do now...........(BUT  alternator might be in the way (easier to remove that a drive flange))

                           
                                         how much tilt can I put on the motor mount below the exhaust??

                       

                  What to do  ?     
ADDED NOTE:
                                Removed cap from flange...
                Off to see the wizard  for  CirClip pliers.......

thanks, Monst