AAZ head and MF block questions

[dontdoemyourself]

tried it! bunch of smoke, but didn't seem like it tried to fire. I did set the timing to 1.05mm.... I need to back it off to .95mm and try again tomorrow.

[fatmobile]

 When you get it running
don't just sit there and idle while you adjust things.
 Have it ready to go.
 Break it in right.

[dontdoemyourself]

got it to fire up last night after jumping my glow plugs! exciting.  I idled it for about a minute while I topped coolant off, then shut it down. only ran for about a minute. Brakes need to be bled badly before I can really drive it around to break it in, but, going to do that stuff this morning and get out in it. Any recommendations for the break in process?

[ORCoaster]

Some will tell you to drive it like you stole it. 

But what you need to do over the next 1000 miles or so is vary the acceleration and deceleration.  Drive it in a lower gear up a grade and then take your foot out of it and use the engine as a brake when you need to stop.  Drive it with higher RPM at cruise for a bit, then shift up.

The idea here is to get the rings to seat on one side with the acceleration part and on the other side with the backpressure.  Don't lug it. 

After the first 1000 change oil and filter and change to the new filter and synthetic oil and enjoy.

[fatmobile]

 Right, keep it in the midrange and load it,
 then back off.
 Repeat.
 Shifting through the gears and downshifting helps.
 Both of these actions push the rings against the walls.
 Don't run at a steady speed.
 Don't do too many RPMs.

 Maybe like you stole it
 but granda is sitting in the passenger seat.
Yeah, drive it like you and granda are stealing a Rabbit.

[RabbitJockey]

120 grit is not a typo.  That's plenty smooth.  It does not need a mirror finish.  I have installed several heads treated in that manner without any issues.  I use the paper from an 8" wide roll so I do not have any seams.  You could finish it finer if you wanted to but it is not necessary in my experience.     

You would want the 1/4" steel supported solidly and flat also or it will flex but if true and flat it will work.  I solidly support the piece of polished granite I use to keep it from flexing.  I lube the paper with WD40 or the like and use a good technique of keeping the head flat when moving it and altering the direction.       

do you just do that to ones with defects? ive had good luck just cleaning them and reinstalling. do you ever remove the cups, sand, and then resintall them?

[ORCoaster]

Yeah, drive it like you and granda are stealing a Rabbit.

Just don't let Gramps drive.  It won't be enough to break in the new rings.  No gentle like a baby's butt accelerations.  But no peeling out either.  Moderation, leaning towards a wild ride.

[theman53]

I would use the entire RPM range, but moderately at first. Meaning don't side step the clutch and hold it to the floor to use the entire RPM range, but let the clutch out normally and wind it up. Also, downshift and let it wind up going down hills. Then hold it steady for a while, vary it. After a bit run it hard. I spin the oil filter off and top up after 25, 100, 500 miles then full change at 1,000. Might not be needed, but if you are truely breaking it in there will be metal in the engine and the filters are supposed to stop it until they get full. So I do because the filters are cheap and rebuilds are expensive.

[fatmobile]

 Maybe some magnets on the oil filter.
And oil pan.

[ORCoaster]

I always slap a strong magnet on the bottom of the oil pan.  The little bit of magnetism that is on the plug helps but you should see the difference where the pan one is at.  I tear computer hard drives apart and use those super magnets on lots of things.  Thin but very strong. 

Now I will slap a couple on the oil filter too, just for good measure. 
Have them handy, may as well put them to good use.

[dontdoemyourself]

thanks everyone! I will definitely throw some magnets on the oil pan and change the oil and filter after 100 or so miles . its got about 12 miles on it right now.  Runs well ! Had a massive oil leak the first time I spun it around the block because I had shouldered studs on my valve cover gasket for a cork one.. and had a rubber one on. oops. I need to get some pics of the ugly beast up here soon.

[Dennis Froelich]

I need to get some pics of the ugly beast up here soon.

Post some pics of the other cars you have listed too!

[dontdoemyourself]

well, no pictures yet.. whenever tapatalk comes back up on my phone I will upload..

So, some potential issues.. engine seems to get hot under load.. the needle runs just a little to the left of the red light.. with the cooling fan and heater blasting it still seems to get hot going up hills or even just on flat ground under load. Also seems to be losing a tiny bit of coolant. I'm speculating that I probably needed to get my block decked.. which I didn't.. anyone know if that's something the machine shop can do with the rotating mass still in the block..? TIA. seems to be running well otherwise, starts up great when cold, gets up and goes.. just this dang temperature issue. thanks again !

[libbydiesel]

What do you mean by 'it seems to get hot'?  You mean the gauge pegs and the LED starts blinking or you're getting boilover?

How much have you driven it? 

Has the oil level been mysteriously rising? 

Due to the pressure differential, a head gasket leak from coolant passage to cylinder results in exhaust gases in the coolant and usually not so much coolant getting burned.  Intake stroke can result in a bit of coolant loss, but the other three strokes result in air or combustion gases into the coolant.   

[fatmobile]

 Make sure the little line going to the coolant resevoir has a steady stream flowing.