Timing a 1.6

[absenth]

I've been working on timing my rebuilt 1.6 while it is on the stand. I've read many threads on here and other vw sites. Along with Vince Waldon's How To. I have all the proper tools and have gone through the steps and completed the static timing of the pump. However, I didn't feel the marks for the IP were lined up so I redid the timing 6 or 7 times. The closest I can get the mark on the ip sprocket to the mark on the engine mount/ip bracket is about the edge of the same marked tooth on the sprocket. The mark is just to the left (looking at the sprocket face) of the mark on the bracket. This seems like a fairly common issue but even with working through the suggestions of others on those threads I just can't quite get it to line up. I'm not sure what to think.

Questions are welcome. I can turn the engine over very easily. There seems to be some slight resistance only when none of the pistons are at TDC. This was the same before I installed the head so I'm thinking this is the new pistons and rings not being broken in to the cylinder walls. I've also noticed the timing belt walking away just a bit toward the passenger side of things. I was conscious about adjusting the other IP mount bolts under the IP before I installed it, as I had read about the belt walking problem. Once I know I can get the IP sprocket all lined up I will go back and try to straiten that out. Thanks.

[libbydiesel]

The alignment between the mark on the injection pump sprocket and the mark on the bracket is only used for getting the belt installed with the correct tooth alignment.  It is irrelevant for fine timing the injection pump after the belt is on.  There is no point in fine timing the injection pump until after the belt is tracking correctly as the pump needs to be removed and the bracket bolts loosened/bracket adjusted in order to correctly adjust the belt tracking.

[absenth]

The alignment between the mark on the injection pump sprocket and the mark on the bracket is only used for getting the belt installed with the correct tooth alignment.  It is irrelevant for fine timing the injection pump after the belt is on.

Excellent! Thanks for sharing this. I had considered that with the crank and cam on point, that maybe the mark on the injection pump sprocket was there as a reference, considering you literally dial in the pump timing later.

There is no point in fine timing the injection pump until after the belt is tracking correctly as the pump needs to be removed and the bracket bolts loosened/bracket adjusted in order to correctly adjust the belt tracking.

Great! I only did that on the first timing attempt. Now I can go remove what I need to adjust the pump bracket.


One other question on the Cam bolt. 33ft lbs is the listed torque, however several people mentioned that they used to use that but started using 45ft lbs after they had the Cam sprocket come loose. 33ftlbs = ~45 Nm. I'm thinking maybe some of those bolts were accidentally torqued to 33 Nm to begin with. Can anyone speak to this? Thanks.

[ORCoaster]

I read the initial post and thought, Man you are more anal than most of us.  The mark is just a starting point!  But you now know all that. 

Get the belt to track right then worry about twisting the IP to get the timing right.  No sense tearing up a good belt. 

[fatmobile]

 Better to line the mark on the sprocket up with the line on the pump,..
 than on the bracket

[absenth]

I turned the engine over by hand many times to see where the belt was tracking. The belt was running just barely over the intermediate pulley edge (Mk2 so no lip) on the passenger side, and the same with the crank sprocket and against the edge of the tensioner. Cam and IP sprockets had it right down the middle. After much fussing with the pump bracket I have gotten the belt to ride back toward the engine.

The belt now rides down the middle of the cam sprocket like before. The belt is riding closer to the engine on the IP sprocket, by about the same amount the belt is now riding closer to the engine on the IP pulley and crank sprocket. The belt still looks like it is against the edge of the tensioner. What do you think? A. Run it and watch it closely. B. Take the pump off again and find a real crow bar and jack the back ip bracket up higher. C. Anything else to check? I used a carpenter's triangle to look at the tensioner stud. That visually looked to be straight, and I would think the belt would track off center on the cam sprocket first but am just guessing on that.

Thanks.

[fatmobile]

 If it's riding too close to the block you need to adjust the bracket back the other way.
 Rear of the pump goes down.

 Remove the lines.
 You can't get to the front most bolt with the pump on but you can reach the back bolt.
 I think I use a 1/2" swivel socket.
 Loosen both bolts and just use the one to find where it should be,
 Snug it down with blue lock tight.
 You don't have to pull the whole pump to get to that front bolt.
 Then remove the mounting bolts and pull the pump back far enough to reach the front bolt and blue locktite that front bolt in.

[absenth]

Here is where it sits now.








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[libbydiesel]

That looks fine.  Check it once it is running.

[fatmobile]

Looks good.
 Those contitech belts like to stretch at first.
 Check the tension again in 3 to 5 thousand miles.

[absenth]

Thanks guys. While the engine is not in the car I thought I might as well try some things since it’s easy enough to access.

Turned it over many more times and felt like it was walking away from the engine on the intermediate pulley, more than shown above. I put a different one on that has a lip and it’s looking pretty good. The tensioner looks a smidge better too.








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk