Piston hitting valve

[ORCoaster]

Glad you got it that far.  Always good to hear when someone gets a diesel back up and running. 

You could have just stuck a hose in the head and let the water pour out to get it revved up.

[Wltrc]

Yea I thought about doing that but I dont really have anywhere to do it without making a mess. No drain in the shop. Definitely was good to hear it flash up tho, can finally continue forward with my project now.

[Wltrc]

Got the acme flywheel on, Suzuki transmission in and the timing mark lines up. So I guess maybe I had a VW gas flywheel on the engine before. Good to know

[fatmobile]

 Yeah, I use the gasser flywheels.
 Because they are 210mm, instead of the stock diesel 200mm.
I've had the 200mm flywheels slip.
 Always have to make my own marks.
 One at TDC and one at 12 BTDC,
 that's where I time it at idle with a pulse detector and timing light.

 You replaced the intermediate shaft bearing while the engine was out right?
Or at least checked them?

[ORCoaster]

Fatmobile, do you get the signal for the timing light off the injector lines or the GP hole.  I have two of those devices that convert a signal, one mechanical the other optical to trigger the timing light.  I might have to see what the difference would be between the two. 

I think the optical should be 23 degrees and mechanical 12.  That is what the Snap On manual mentions. 

[Wltrc]

The intermediate bearing were ok, no play and rolled smoothly.

I picked up an intake manifold from a carbed rabbit, the giant diesel one wouldn't alloy the Suzuki hood to close. Will it be able to provide enough air? The opening on the diesel air box is roughly the same size as the gas one. It will be plumbed into a 2 inch pipe and then to a 4 inch cone filter

[fatmobile]

So you didn't look at the intermediate shaft bearings?
 You should if it's a used engine.

I use a pulse detector off the fuel line,
 to trigger the timing light.

[libbydiesel]

^^^^Indeed.^^^^

Pull the intermediate shaft out and look at the outer bearing.  Even without noticeable play the bearings often flake apart.  That's a LOT easier to deal with prior to installing the engine.  There is an o-ring around the intermediate shaft seal carrier that should be replaced if you pull the carrier.  Replacing the seal would be wise as well.   

[Wltrc]

I didn't lay eyes on the bearings themselves no.

 In my current configuration since the engine is mounted front to back I can easily pull the shaft out the front of the vehicle. I will do that once I find all the bits and pieces to turbo the engine, if I decide to do so.

[ORCoaster]

Thanks for the answer Fatmobile.  I remembered later that the Snap On meter I have has a magnetic pickup that goes in the flywheel inspect hole.  It senses that big gob of metal on the flywheel and that is what sends a signal to the meter.  That is adjusted for the 23 degrees BTDC in order to get the meter to read the proper timing.  It is a direct reading on the meter.

The optical version I have sees the fire in the hole that is created by the combustion of the fuel injected into the cylinder.  That is later than the mechanical click that the fuel line sensor shows.  I should put the three types on at the same time and see what sort of difference there is between them.  The timing light has an advance dial on it but I am not so sure it will be good enough to pick up the difference between the mechanical and optical signal. 

Once I have it at TDC I should measure the mm on the injection pump and scribe it on the yellow tag on the strut mount.  Oh for a day when I have nothing better to do, eh?