Need Help with Injector Pump

[Tusker]

I have completed the install of an AAZ motor into a Samurai.  It runs ok, but has no real power, especially from 3rd on (1st and 2nd are ok).  In fact, with the pedal stuck to the floor in 4th, I max out at about 55 mph on flat ground (around 2800 rpms but I don't have a tach or speedo yet....).  It will not go any faster, and if I shift into 5th, it starts to lose speed.  My sustained EGT's post turbo are only 850 or so with the pedal floored, and I get absolutley no smoke under any circumstances.  My boost builds to 14psi.

I went to turn up the fuel and found the seal gone on the screw and it was turned in as far as it would go   No more adjustment.  It seems obvious to me that I need more fule and can't get any more.  Probably why I got the motor for so cheap.

What would you guess the problem might be?  Can it potentially be fixed/rebuilt by me (moderate mechanical ability)?  If I have to spend money on a rebuild, where is somewhere I can get a quality rebuilt IP for as cheap as possible?  

Any help would be appreciated.  I am 6 months into this project and getting burned out  :cry:

[QuickTD]

Make sure you have good fuel flow to the pump, no clogged filters small/restricted lines. Make sure you have a hose connected from the intake manifold to the fitting on the top of the boost compensator on the pump (the "spaceship" looking thing). If you still have no luck and you suspect the injection pump has been messed with you can take the top off the boost compensator and see if the pin was installed backwards or something silly like that, the ramp on the stock AAZ boost pin should face the timing belt end of the pump.

I went to turn up the fuel and found the seal gone on the screw and it was turned in as far as it would go  No more adjustment. It seems obvious to me that I need more fule and can't get any more. Probably why I got the motor for so cheap.

If the main quantity adjuster is screwed all the way in the motor will run away as soon as it is started, no question about it. Are you sure you're looking at the proper screw? The main adjuster is an 8mm thread, 13mm locknut and it has a combination 6mm hex/slot head on it.

[Tusker]

If the main quantity adjuster is screwed all the way in the motor will run away as soon as it is started, no question about it. Are you sure you're looking at the proper screw? The main adjuster is an 8mm thread, 13mm locknut and it has a combination 6mm hex/slot head on it.

Thanks for the reply.  I am pretty sure I have the right screw.  It has a 6mm hex head with a standard screw drivers slot in the end.   Right?

I may have been mistaken about the factory cover being previously removed however.  Your description of a 13mm locknut got me thinking since I cannot get any threads to show on the adjuster nut no matter how far I back it out...........  

Just ahead of the 6mm shoulder (toward the IP housing), there is a brass or copper banding that links around the screw with a jigsaw puzzle type connection (wierd looking wrap around gismo, but that is the best explanation I can give).  Behind that is a black plastic ring that spins freely.  

Is the above described copper skirt and plastic covering what I need to remove to get to the 13mm locknut?  If so, I am ready to rip that thingy off   Is there are particular way in which to do it?  Thanks again.

[Otis2]

Yes, that is the "collar" that you have to get off.

Some people have said they have pried it off with a screwdriver.  

I used a Dremmel with a fibreglass cutting wheel.

[Tusker]

Thanks.  Can I take the screw out to do it or is that a no-no?  I don't have a dremmel and getting in there with a dye-grinder looks pretty iffy.......

[QuickTD]

The plastic ring busts off pretty easy, get rid of that and you can loosen the locknut and remove the screw. Be careful to preserve the position of the locknut so you can get the screw back in the same position. As I said in a previous post, if the screw is too far in you'll get a runaway. The steel collar is spot welded on, a bit of work with sidecutters will free it. You'll need to back out the idle speed screws and the residual pressure screw as you turn in the main fuel screw or the idle speed will climb. See the "Smog" FAQ for more info.

[Tusker]

Ok, got it.  Thanks so much.

[moosiah]

Hey Tusker ,,,,, You live about 25 miles north of me,,,, I'm in the valley of the moon ......... did you feel the earth quake the other night??  my couch slid around the living room with me on it!!!!!!!   while watching the scifi  channel......  great sfx ,, how'd they do that? :lol:  hey ,give me a shout and maybe we can lookit your engine ,,,,,, I've got all the timing tools AND my buddy Joe (he has a diesel comp gage) is thinking of the same setup you've got......  ( me too!!)
moosiah

every day I coomute from The Valley Of the Moon to Treasure Island.really.
Though Nevernever Land and Fairy Land. Honest    :lol:

[745 turbogreasel]

Make sure you don't have air in the fuel, I once drove my rabit home walking beside it in 1st gear with a brick on the accelerator because that is how much the air leak slowed it down.
Easy to kink  a line shoving a tranny around too.

[Tusker]

moosiah:  It's a small world.  I'll give you a call in a day or so.  I would love to hook up.  I know nothing about mechanical diesels............

I ended up turning in the fuel screw just 3/4 of a turn and what a difference.  The idle went from shake-your fillings-lose to (comparatively) very smotth.  I still have some bugs to work out, but it is driveable on the highway finally

[moosiah]

tusker  check your pm box sent you a message!!!!   :wink: