M-TDI ALH into a MK2 swap

[v8volvo]

Looks good. 

Nice to see posts from you here, fatmobile. I remember reading a lot of helpful info from you way back 15+ years ago on the vwdieselparts.com forum when I was climbing the learning curve with my first VW diesel, an old 1.6 Rabbit. I moved on to TDIs long ago but have been back reading here recently about M-TDI pumps for a Toyota pickup project I'm working on now. Just was reading some good info from your thread about the work you did on the IP for this car when I realized your username was familiar.

Glad to see you're still playing with these rigs, and look forward to seeing how this runs when you finish it up. 

[fatmobile]

 Hey V8 I remember you. I've found alot of the old vwdieselparts crew scattered from here to TDI club.

Progress:
 A better shot of the turbo to intake pipe:


Air supply from filter to turbo:
The tape is covering the spot where a port will be welded for the PCV hose.


The upper radiator hose mod that adds a bit to the stock radiator hose.
 

The 32mm to 28mm adapter I linked to earlier is from UK so I won't get one until may.
 So I made my own. Out of a 4 dollar piece of aluminum.
lathecoupler by vwfatmobile, on Flickr

With my tiny Atlas hobby lathe it took me hours to get it made but it fit great.

[fatmobile]

  IT"S ALIVE!!!!
Got it running.
 I still need to time it and do some electrical stuff.
 Coolant temp gauge.
Oil pressure gauge.
Alternator blue wire needs a plug for the back of alternator.

[fatmobile]

I do have a small leak from the NPT plug I stuck in the front:


 It felt like the hole was a little big for a 1/8" NPT plug.
 I'll have to pull the lid, take it out and use some kind of chemical seal instead of teflon tape.

 Any suggestions on a sealer that can handle diesel fuel at 200psi?
Is there a loc-tite or should I just clean up fuel and use JB weld on the plug?

[ORCoaster]

I would be of the type to try JB weld on it.  Let is set a few days then get fuel next to it. 

[fatmobile]

That's how I think too,...
 but a buddy mentioned some kind of green lock-tite that might work.
 
 I could maybe get it redone tomorrow
and it can sit until after the freakin snowstorm we are getting Sunday.

 Not sure at all how the engine temp gauge will work with the TDI sender.
 The MK2 sender went from around 47ohms to 270 ohms.
 Not sure what the range is on a TDI temp sender.

[ORCoaster]

Snowstorm?   Man it is almost mid April.  What is with your weather?   We finally got sun and sixty the last couple of days.  Interior, Rouge Valley was high 70's and even cracked 81 for a few hours. 

Summer is coming but very slowly.  OK by me, I work outside and don't need to be cooked like a chicken dinner all the time. 

[fatmobile]

Checked the actual ohms on the temp senders for both engines.
 They were close so I hooked up the violet to the gauge and the brown and white wire to ground.
 We'll see if it works.

Alternator plug for the TDI has 2 wires.
 1 and 2 stamped into it where the wires go in.
 The #1 wire has blue near the base so I used it as the exciter wire,
connected to the light in the dash.
 It works great.

 Was able to use the VDO sender for the oil pressure gauge.
 The switch in the oil filter housing was the same  10M1.

[fatmobile]

 Changed the timing belt.
 Got the PCV hose sorted out:


 Not sure the TDI temp sensor will work with the MK2 gauge yet.

 Seems a little doggy.
 RPMs hang if I turn the max fuel screw in all the way.
Haven't taken it for a long drive yet.
 Am working on the tire alignment.

[fatmobile]

Doesn't seem like the TDI temp sensor will work with the MK2 gauge.

I found a longer accelerator cable:
171 721 555k
 According to this site it's from an old gasser Rabbit.
http://www.zsimports.com/vw-control-cables.html

The cable stuck out too far so I had to shorten it.
 Crimped it with some scrap metal,
 then I wrapped it in quick steel moldable epoxy.:


 Took it out for a few miles and got on it.
 EGTs are too high and boost is too low.
 The VNT-15 vanes are disconnected and fully closed so it should over boost like the 1.6 Rabbit.
 I think playing with the timing will help.
 I timed a TDI then put the pulse detector on it to see where they normally like to sit timing wise.
 It was about 1 1/2 teeth from the TDC Mark.
 I think that's less than 3 degrees BTDC.
 Here's a pic of an '84 Rabbit flywheel because they came with timing marks.

flywheeltimingmarks by vwfatmobile, on Flickr

I don't know if the teeth per degree is the same but
 I'm running 13 degree BTDC so I'll try retarding it.

[libbydiesel]

If you timed and tested a stock eTDI, then likely the timing is retarded at idle to lower NOx emissions.  I've found that 12° BTDC is great for either IDI or TDI assuming the advance curve works well.  Playing with it this way or that won't hurt, though.  Report back what you find.   

[fatmobile]

 I turned it back to 6 degrees BTDC.
 Lost the low end torque I had.
 Kinda expected it to be slower.

 EGTs to 1500 and boost slowly maxed at 15 PSI.
 I'll try going above 13D BTDC.
It's not real clackity up there so there might be room.

[fatmobile]

 Turned it up to 14 and had much better lower end torque.
 This time I revved it to see if the advance was working.
 It didn't seem to be.
 The timing light sat on the same mark up past 1500RPM
 and I could still see flashes of it while trying to hold steady at 2000 RPM.
 
 So I took out the internal pump pressure checker.
 Results:
 50psi @ 880 RPM    ,... idle.
 80psi At 2000 RPM.

 Not sure what the specs are for this pump but
 it's building lots of pressure.
 Sooo that's probably not the problem.

Also any suggestions on where to tap in a MK2 temp sensor?
 

[libbydiesel]

Have you had the dynamic advance piston areas of the pump apart?  You might pull the two covers, put the engine so that the pump is between humps of the camplate, then see if the dynamic piston will move back and forth.  I have not tried that before with the pump on the car, but with the ALH it is probably possible. 

[fatmobile]

 I did pull the timing piston while I was changing seals.
 I think I just wanted to see if there was some way to hook up a cold start cable.
 I will check to see how easy it moves.
 Maybe remove some shims.
 Right, with the way the pump tilts forward I might be able to get to both sides of the piston.