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#15
by
Spokerider
on 29 Oct, 2019 14:42
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Good idea Coaster, thank you.
So yesterday, I pried off the limiting collar on the max fuel screw and backed it out 1 turn. Started it, and it hit 3000 in 1 second, so shut'er down asap.
Backed the screw out 2 turns......it would not run. Turned the screw back in 1/2 turn.....would not run. Put the screw further in, to 1 turn out from Giles setting, and the engine ran, but back up to 3000 in 1 second. Ok......no luck with this attempt.
Next, I drained the fuel from the pump [ on car ]. With a syringe and catheter, I was able to get into the depths of the "fuel in" bore, and into the depths of the "stop solenoid" bore in the pump head. I also loosened the two screws holding the cap on the advance bore......more fuel dribbled from it.
That was as much as I could remove.
Next, I instilled Diesel Purge, full strength into the two bores, until the excess came out the "fuel return" bore. That was as full as I could get the pump, with diesel purge. Now it sits...……
I will see how it runs today. If no luck, I guess I'll try removing the top cover and seeing if I can manually move the control collar on the plunger shaft enough to free it up.
From what I can glean from the vid I watched......in my pump.....the control collar is stuck too far to the delivery end of the plunger, and possible covering up the "cut off slit". So.....it continues to deliver fuel through the plunger to the delivery valves.
Gum on the plunger shaft? The cut off slit filled with gum / goo? A problem with the governor lever assembly...….not pushing the control sleeve to the drive end of the plunger?
Hummmm.
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#16
by
ORCoaster
on 29 Oct, 2019 22:40
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Generally it is just gum/varnish/yuck stuff on the shaft and collar parts. If you ever have taken a pump apart you know how close the tolerance is between those parts. Tough to get them to slide at times without lubrication from the fuel.
Hope the Purge does the trick. I wouldn't be afraid to tap the end of the head with a hammer. That nut that you pull to insert a timing dial gauge. That would send a vibration down the shaft and potentially pop a stuck collar free.
But that is me.
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#17
by
Spokerider
on 31 Oct, 2019 10:00
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Well, after soaking in diesel purge for 48 hrs, the pump is same, same.
Further research indicated that it may be sticking gov flywheel, on it's shaft that may be causing the problem vs sticking control sleeve. I was going to pull the top cover off, on car, to "unstuck" the problem part, but decided against it as I cannot remove the flywheel / weights / shaft with pump on the engine anyway. So, it'll get opened up and cleaned out on the bench at a later date.
Got my old pump back on again.
Now.....to try to find the cause of mild surging / bucking under no-load driving conditions.
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#18
by
libbydiesel
on 31 Oct, 2019 14:31
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Usually surging at part accelerator is caused by operating in the transition between the idle spring and the main spring. On the early pumps that do not have the fast idle setup I do not have a decent cure. On the pumps with the fast idle setup it can usually be eliminated by adjusting the residual pressure lower/higher and then adjusting the idle back where it should be using the idle screw.
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#19
by
Spokerider
on 31 Oct, 2019 16:24
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Thank you Andrew, this helps.
Got the pump primed and running today. I did turn in the fuel screw another 1/8th turn, and thus I needed to back the slow idle screw [ see-saw ] out all of the way to get the idle speed back down. I would say I'm close to the limit of adding fuel and keeping a tolerable idle speed.
Still have the gentle surge at part throttle / no load, I'll try the residual fuel screw either in / out to see if I can correct the surge. Not sure how much wriggle room I have as far as adjusting the residual fuel screw "in", and still keeping a reasonable idle speed.....but I will try.
My pump is the newer version, with the fast idle set up, and has the original governor springs insitu and has not been modded.
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#20
by
fatmobile
on 01 Nov, 2019 01:45
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When I started a Jetta TD that hadn't run in quite awhile.
It over over revved because the flyweights had stuck and wouldn't fly out.
I took the top off and got the flyweights moving.
Put the top back on and it ran right.
Got clear fuel lines?
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#21
by
Spokerider
on 01 Nov, 2019 11:58
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Yes, I had read that sticking fly weights, or the governor flywheel / shaft sticking could be a problem. That is why I've decided to remove the pump from the engine and open it on the bench......so I can remove the shaft / flywheel.....clean parts, and / or get deeper in to the pump if needed. Can't take out that shaft with pump still on engine.
Yes......I have the Bing blue fuel line.
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#22
by
libbydiesel
on 01 Nov, 2019 13:47
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As Fatmobile mentioned, you do not need to remove the governor shaft to unstick the governor and flyweights. You can remove the pump lid and then move the sleeve that rides around the governor shaft.
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#23
by
Spokerider
on 01 Nov, 2019 15:47
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Yes, possibly. But, I've never unstuck one before, or unstuck a control collar either, so can't say for sure what needs to come out and what doesn't.
At the end of the day of wrenching, I have my old pump back on and running, what I needed to have done in a day...…
Opening the Giles pump will be another day, sometime this winter.