Yeah, my 4 door jetta became a 3 door, then a 2 door about a year ago. Since its a commuter and I dont remember the last time there was 2 people in it, fixing it hasnt become much of a priority. Back when I was still frustrated by the 2nd door going, I did manage to google up the info below that looks helpful, but I haven't tested it out yet. Poorly formated as it came of an old ascii BBS someone had dumped into a FAQ file. I think there are 2 seperate posts below.
Let us know if it works, mybe I'll get up the gumption to try!
>>>>A2 stuck door FAQ<<<<
I was looking through the FAQs and didn't find anything about getting stuck doors to open. This happens a lot with A2's. Especially 4 door models, since they sometimes go for long periods without being opened and are exposed to more salt and water from the rear wheels. Anyway, I'll try to explain what should be done to get it to open. -First, before taking anything apart, try playing with the door lock and handle at the same time. This will work in most situations and is a sure sign that the lock is due for a good grease job. -If the door is really stuck (like mine was) a little more work is in order: -First of all, get a new lock. The old one is probably rusted beyond any hope of repair. A scrapyard is a good place to look. You can find a good one for a fraction of the cost of a new one. -If the rear doors are affected, remove the rear seat back for clearance. -Afterwards, the rubber weather seal that goes around the door needs to be pried out of position near the middle of the door. The door lock should then be visible through the gap. -Using a punch or a screwdriver, hammer on the lower part of the catch until it sinks into the lock. This can sometimes require quit a bit of effort. Line the punch up and hit the end with a good hammer. Then simply push on the door. Tada! The door should open. -Get the old lock off and replace it with the new one. Make sure it is packed with grease. -Note: You shouln't have to remove the inside door panel to do any of this. Well, hope you can use this. I know I could have a year ago. I didn't think it was possible to see the catch from inside the car with the door closed. I guess I was wrong eh?
If you have a door tht will not open, DO NOT, as some have suggested, = remove fender or ...... Instead, open another door on the car and look at= the = latch. Using a phillips screwdriver manually activate the latch while do= or = is open, much as the striker pin on door post activates the latch. You w= ill observe that the latch has a "finger" that wraps around the pin. Notice = that at 6:00 position there is a tab which holds the latch shut. (Operate door= handle or inside door release and relatch (manually) a few times so you a= re farmiliar with how latch works.) Usind a lond--about 18" thin screwdrive= r = ideally, depress this tab and latch will open. Again, perorm several tim= es so you are farmiliar with operation. =0D Now go to the inside of door/doors that will not open. One at a time, = stareting at top of the door 12:00, pull down rubber headliner retaining = trim with door seal (a screwdriver helps you start at the first point) and pul= l the seal counterclockwise to 8:00 position. You will notice the light coming in a= nd = see the latch at 12:00. Using a good light source and that long thin = screwdriver, press down "tab" on latch and the door is open. Sometimes, = a = tap of a hammer will help release a frozen latch. Once open, remove door= = handle by popping off trim with flat blade screwdriver near rear of handl= e. Remove the phillips head screw at outside of handle and one above latch, = at rear of handle. Remove latch with two 6 or 5mm hex (allen) head bolts an= d pulling down and outward to 3:00 position. The inside door lock pull slee= ve = will slide off and the door opener hinkage will be hooked on release leve= r. = Using a pocket screwdriver lock thie release lever in open position by = inserting in 1/4" sqare hole in bottom inner area of latch. =0D With latch in hand, remove pocket screwdriver and manually simulate lock operation, freeing any frozen parts with your favorite penetrant WD-40 or= whatever. Pay careful attention to small (like bic pen) return spring wh= ich tends to rust and break (we stock stainless steel replacements for $5.00 = or = visit your local hardware store) and is located vertically at rear lower = area = of latch. Once latch is working, clean off all lubricant corraosion resi= due = with brakeleen or whatever solvent. Once evaporated lubricate inner work= ings of latch with AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID. We have tried every type of = oil, = never seize and the like and ATF seems to work smoothest. Lubricate the = handle inner workings the same way. =0D You then reassemble and test latch operation WITH DOOR OPEN simulating operation as you did to learn how the latch worked! You probably never f= elt a handle or latch that worked so smoothly.
Topic: stuck rear door... (Read 3871 times)
