Author Topic: Still overheating (Read 5953 times)

mtnsammy · « **on:** June 27, 2006, 07:01:38 pm »

Can anyone tell me what is so special about installing heads? I have now installed my 6th head and I am still overheating. This time on fire up the coolant is pressurised. What is up. I see no cracks in the cylinders and the head is fresh off the mill. Am I missing anything on assembly?

zyewdall · « **Reply #1 on:** June 27, 2006, 07:07:10 pm »

I seem to recall something about the hydraulic and non-hydraulic heads have different passages, and the oil passage in one lines up with the coolant in the other if you don't have the right head gasket? Anyone recall where this info came from or if I'm pulling it out of my hind end? Maybe a search of the archives will help.

mtnsammy · « **Reply #2 on:** June 27, 2006, 09:18:33 pm »

No oil in water and no water in oil.

Curious note is the temp on the radiator hoses is cool on radiator side and hot on motor side. Radiator is also cool.

In the Morning I am pulling the fan belt to see if it still blows water out the overflow tank. If not then I will run a water hose thru the tee fitting for flushing the coolant system. I mounted it near the heater core so this should run the water in reverse.

Still need more ideas?? right now I will consider even the basic over looked items.

When I reinstalled this head I used a metal gasket again and double checked the holes. Everything is good and lines up right. Oil to oil and coolant to coolant.

I am also looking for a good source for 1.9 NA motors or 1.9 TD with manual IP pumps. Next year I will replace the 1.6TD if I can't figure this out. The Jeep is just a toy but I want to drive it not work on it. The 1.6 will become a generator for my house or something.

mtnsammy · « **Reply #3 on:** June 28, 2006, 09:22:58 am »

Well I am toast unless someone can tell me I did something stupid.

On fire up with no fan belts the bubbles are still enormous. I cannot tell if the pump is creating proper flow, butI can tell the combustion gases are blowing into the coolant real bad this time. I will hook up the tow bar and take it to the shop to prove my point, then I guess I'll pay another shop to pull it all apart again. Either the block has a small crack I am not seeing or the shop is repeating the same error on their heads? I wish I could find a simple mistake I am making and just run this motor.

The history;
1st motor overheated after 100 miles, both head and block warped. Thomas replaced entire motor.
2nd motor overheats, given another used head. Still over heats found to have cracks.
3rd rebuilt, had 2 major cracks but specialty shop repaired heads real nice. Idler pulley stripped and caused major cam breakage.
4th Entire motor rebuilt. better safe than sorry since pistons had deep impressions from 5 valves hitting tops.
5th head cracked again new head given by machine shop. now on fire up it blows like Old Faithful out the overflow tank.

I have tried to use both stock and metal head gaskets. I am buying the gaskets from Autohauz parts in Arizona. They sell online and always have the parts. No local part stores have the gaskets and bolts.

Is it possible the gaskets are bad?? I have never had a problem before with head gaskets. The shipper delivers the boxes undamaged and the packaging is clean. The gaskets are Victor Reinz parts and not repackaged gaskets.

jtanguay · « **Reply #4 on:** June 28, 2006, 02:41:57 pm »

Man that problem is a pain in the ass. They must be putting the gasket on wrong or something. Either that, or there is some phantom crack that eludes the mechanics.

At this point I would say just buy a reman block + head. Just take your loss. Unless someone here has had similar issues and found a fix.

LeeG · « **Reply #5 on:** June 28, 2006, 11:11:49 pm »

Its not just air trapped inthe system bubbling out as it gets hot?

Pressure test cooling system to see if you can hear a leak?

No evidence of where it is leaking when you strip it down?

I have never tried this, but what about firing it up with one injector at a time removed to see if the bubbles are tied to a specific cylinder? Maybe a safer option would be to pressurize each cylinder with an air compressor to see if you can get the bubbles that way.

You have had some really really really bad luck with it, I hope you get it sussed.

mtnsammy · « **Reply #6 on:** July 03, 2006, 08:16:00 pm »

LeeG;
Good idea. Since I will be going to court this will tell me which cylinder is bad. Much easier than waiting for the shop to bow down. I can pressurise with the compression tester and rotate the motor for top dead center each time. Kewl idea. Sometimes the simple ideas are the best.

jtanguay · « **Reply #7 on:** July 11, 2006, 10:07:52 pm »

Just came across this site while doing some searching on the net. This might be something you would want to consider (pretty cheap vs. head repair...)

http://www.steelseal.com/eng/home.html

Master ACiD · « **Reply #8 on:** July 12, 2006, 06:48:42 am »

if youre on youre 6th head and still having this problem when its probably not the heads which are at fault. try looking at the deck for a gouge.

jtanguay · « **Reply #9 on:** July 16, 2006, 10:48:58 am »

Quote from: Master ACiD

if youre on youre 6th head and still having this problem when its probably not the heads which are at fault. try looking at the deck for a gouge.

Thats probably what is wrong. I would still say just go with steel seal and give em a try... I'm sure $50 is cheaper than removing the head and replacing everything. It's worth a shot.

mtnsammy · « **Reply #10 on:** July 19, 2006, 08:15:37 pm »

Looks like the shop wants the entire motor back. Possibly gouge, crack or warped deck. I do not believe them since I ran a standard on the block deck and the heads. Both are perfectly flat. There is something they are doing with the heads since it got much worse with this last one. I was beginning to question my abilities, but my friend runs a shop that does all rebuilds. He saw nothing wrong with the instal. When the motor comes back this time, it will be a turn key or refund. I refuse to assemble and reassemble this motor again.

The first clue I had against the shop is when they used sealer on the head bolts, used old bolts from the shop scrap bin, and welded the oil port shut fixin a crack. I should of stopped there, but I was excited to have 510 pounds compression. Thanks for all the help. If the shop gets this motor back quickly I'll update this thread. Still hard workin 6 days a week and only one day to play or fix the car??? a guy needs some fun.