Water pump pulley

[Spokerider]

Guys,
 I'm in the process of doing a timing belt re and re on a 1992 1.6TD
 The 3 water pump pulley allen head bolts are tight, tight.
 How do you guys hold the pulley still, so torque can be applied to the bolts to loosen them.

 I have a strap wrench, but it still allows enough movement of the pulley that robs the torque needed to jolt the bolts loose.
 This water pump has a "nose" on it, so I can't use a flat bar across the other two bolt heads like I've done to the "noseless" water pumps, to hold it still.
  Hummmm..... vise grips on the nose?

 I tried an electric impact tool to try to loosen one of them......but my allen head socket is not an impact-specific tool.....I'm afraid of breaking it, my only one. Also, 10 seconds of attempt with the impact tool did not loosen the one bolt I tried it on, and the bolt head hole is a tad loose with the allen socket now.

 The bolts are soaking with Moovit right now, as i type......

[libbydiesel]

I used to jam screwdrivers, clamp belts, etc...  A while back, after breaking more than one screwdriver and being irritated by that drama, I spent 1/2 hour with a cutoff wheel and my welder and made a tool from things I had on hand, most notably a bit of 1/2" steel tubing and spare el cheapo socket.  If the allen ever strips you can pound in the triple-square that fits the CV bolts.

[Spokerider]

Thanks for the pic libby, and the advice on the triple square for rounded out allen bolts.

 I did get it off........bent a piece of metal and jammed it in behind the pulley.....levering it off the PS pump. That held it still enough to snap them loose.
 I was thinking of using a flat bar.....sat 1/8th x 3" wide or so..... and drilling out / removing a "triangle " of steel in the center, to match the triangle of the pulley bolt pattern.

 I should make sumpthin for the next time!

[libbydiesel]

After posting the pic of my homemade tool I did a search and some versions are available for fairly cheap.  This one looks like it would work for the smaller hub.  I've never used it personally, though, so I'm not sure. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AUTO-AIR-CONDITIONER-WATER-PUMP-PULLEY-SPANNER-LOCKING-WRENCH-TOOL-4-VW-AUDI-VAG/192863627899?hash=item2ce7916a7b:g:-fkAAOSwgPVckU76&frcectupt=true

[Spokerider]

That's what I was thinking of. I could make my version in an hour or so. Will prolly do when i have the time.

 Also.....have you found using a crank sprocket holder / tool of sorts helps with installing a new timing belt. It would keep the crank from turning during the process. I usually end up keeping the timing marks advanced by 1/4" or so......so when the crank does turn [ inevitably ] when struggling to get the belt on, it's of some help in getting the timing marks bang-on once the belt is in place. Even at that.......it takes me many attempts to get it right.

[libbydiesel]

I have no use for a crank holding tool during the timing belt process, in fact I would find it counter-productive.  With the procedure I use, there is not any point where the crankshaft turns at all except when I am intentionally turning it.  If you are finding that the crank moves unintentionally then you might want to adjust your procedure so it doesn't. 

You should pull the cam sprocket off the cam prior to attempting to install the belt.  Pump should be locked.  Cam taper and matching taper in the sprocket should be cleaned with brake clean and a clean rag so there is no possibility of any oily residue.

1. Install the belt around the crank and the pump without any extra teeth between them.
2. Insert the cam sprocket into the extra loop of the belt. 
3. Lift the cam sprocket onto the end of the cam while aligning the belt with the tensioner.
4. Insert the cam bolt finger tight.
5. Pull the pump pin.
6. Rotate the crankshaft counter-clockwise (intentionally) a few degrees.
7. Rotate the crankshaft back to TDC without going past TDC while you hold onto the cam sprocket and exert a little back pressure against the belt - this step is important to move all the belt slack into the tensioner area where it should be and where it will be when the engine is running.
Tension the tensioner.
8. Double-check the crank mark.  If it moved during tensioning then you did not do step 7 correctly or you are seriously over-tensioning the belt.  Go back to step 6 and redo.
9. With crank correctly at TDC and belt tensioned, torque the cam bolt to 25 ft-lbs with lock (and feelers on either side) in place.
10. Remove cam lock, cold the cam sprocket with a sprocket holder, and torque cam bolt to 45 ft-lbs rather than the book spec of 33.   
11. Tap the bolt with a hammer moderately hard and recheck the torque at 45 ft-lbs.