General Information > Troubleshooting
Source for proportioning valve seals
ORCoaster:
This is a wild shot in the dark I know. But has anyone ever replaced those small washer like seals in the valve body? I recently purchased a used valve body in hopes that the seals would still be OK but the internals were pretty full of sediment of some sort. The one spring was compressed and stuck on to the valvestem and that misformed the seal to where it will not stay on anymore.
Looked all over for this part, not sure if it is/was ever made as these valves are listed as non repairable. I think I finally met something that was but only due to lack of parts now.
Any one ever find new seals? Not the O rings, the other one that is in there.
fatmobile:
Hi my name is Craig and I hoard MK1 proportioning valves.
How much did you pay for a used one?
ORCoaster:
I got mine from an old buddy and he didn't really charge me much. But having the valve as a spare is only good if the little tiny washer like seals are good. That is the part/parts I need now. The body and red pistons are in perfect shape.
If you really need a price do a PM and I will let you know. But again, buddy price.
Not really market price, or Ebay price.
fatmobile:
Right, and I can't really take one apart and tell if the seals are good enough to work.
I have to put them in another valve and test it.
I'm not really sure how they work or why the seals have little bumps.
Other wise they kind of look like wheel cylinder seals.
ORCoaster:
I think the little bumps are so some fluid can pass but when you really stomp on them, like panic time babe, the smooth flared edge catches the extra pressure and puts a crimp on the pressure to the rear brakes. That keeps them from locking up. Or at least tries to. Having all that mass moving forward and the rears locked tends to push you in a circle. That means more pressure up front and hopefully you can control the steering and keep it all in a straight line.
I hit the hardware store and found that the only type of seal that would come close to meeting the diameters and width was an O ring that was 1/4 ID, 7/32 OD, and a 3/32 inch width or thickness of the doughnut. I am not sure this is going to do the job as it stops all flow through the body of the unit when I screw down the nut on the spring. That is why I think the bumps as you call them allow some passage of air when the unit is assembled. I was going to hook it up to the MC and see if anything comes out the bottom just for giggles. Who knows I may stumble on a source or possible fix for these things at last.
I was told when I was shopping around that the reason these valves have no available parts is due to the liability issue for a rebuilder. It is a safety item on the vehicle and should one rebuild it they become liable for its service. Well you can't hardly see down that cylinder to see if it was scored up or not and you can't hone it out either. So they just expected people to go buy another. We can't do that anymore for our 40 year old cars now can we.
I will report back on the use of the o rings in place of the washer like seals with the bumps. I am not holding my breath that they will work even a little bit. But for less than 2 bucks I figured I could try it over doing nothing.
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