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Author Topic: 1992 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build  (Read 12374 times)

Reply #15February 16, 2019, 12:18:38 am

Huc

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #15 on: February 16, 2019, 12:18:38 am »
I have a lot of accessories and brackets to clean.

This is very time consuming, but also necessary because the parts must be very clean for paint to adhere well. 







I used an assortment of picks, wire wheels, brushes and scrubs to combat each nook and cranny.

Some of the accessories and brackets had deep crevices which made cleaning difficult.

I used the aluminum safe Zep cleaner and phosphoric acid as well for parts subject to flash rust.







I wiped the residue down with acetone prior to applying POR-15.







Finding the correct o-ring for the vacuum pump took a while. I think it was close to an R-34 size.





I screwed up some wood together for spray painting and to hold the parts up while they dry.



Strong fishing string.



This vacuum pump has come a long way.



I love the beige, especially on an older car. So far I've only painted the steel parts. I will leave some black, and paint beige whatever's more visible in the engine bay.

Starting to make the downpipe, 3" 304 stainless.


Reply #16February 16, 2019, 12:19:59 am

Huc

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #16 on: February 16, 2019, 12:19:59 am »
I couldn't find any inserts available, and I'm doubtful that any of the machine shops in my area are competent enough to do it properly.

If I can find the inserts and a shop that is guaranteed to install them properly, then I would definitely do them.
If not, I'd rather leave them alone. It's not ideal, but I've heard of more stories from them falling out when improperly installed than when leaving them alone on a head that hasn't been resurfaced.

Good call on the hylomar spray, I am planning to use that to get a better seal, especially that I'm using MLS.

Did you see this thread?  http://vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php/topic,36096.msg340064.html#msg340064  I purchased 8 new 1.6TD inserts a few years back.  It was a hassle as I had to send money for the purchase to someone I knew in the UK, they needed to purchase the PCC inserts and ship them to me.  They were a perfect fit without any machining necessary.  Tap the old ones out, tap the new ones in.

Yes, I remember staring at that PDF file for a long time about a month or two ago haha!  ;D

Is it possible to order them here? I don't have anyone in the UK.

It looks like VWPCC765000 is the one I'll need, I'll measure mine to double check.
Are they made of inconel? Inconel is very hard but also very brittle, I guess that contributes to their cracking.
« Last Edit: February 16, 2019, 12:26:43 am by Huc »

Reply #17February 16, 2019, 02:30:35 pm

libbydiesel

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #17 on: February 16, 2019, 02:30:35 pm »
They would not sell directly to me in the US.  I don't know if their policy has changed since then.  It might be worth inquiring.

I don't know what they are specifically made of, but they are magnetic.  I have found that the stock PCC inserts also are not consistent as far as what they are made of.  I have tested quite a few TD and non-turbo inserts and some are magnetic, some aren't. 

Reply #18February 18, 2019, 02:14:36 pm

fatmobile

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #18 on: February 18, 2019, 02:14:36 pm »
3" down pipe seems like overkill.
 2.5  is even a little large sometimes,..
 but 3" should fit a MK2 easily.
Tornado red, '91 Golf 4 door,
with a re-ringed, '84 quantum, turbo diesel, MD block

Reply #19February 19, 2019, 03:48:41 am

Huc

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #19 on: February 19, 2019, 03:48:41 am »
Lower EGT, faster spool, more power, higher ceiling for future power upgrades, more reliability with lower temps, more potential to push.

Reply #20February 19, 2019, 07:14:39 pm

libbydiesel

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #20 on: February 19, 2019, 07:14:39 pm »
Are you talking about the 3" pipe?  You'll have to get really extreme (like 200+ hp) on your build before there are any benefits to 3" over 2.5".  At that point you'll need custom rods, crank girdle, etc, etc... and the pre-combustion chamber inserts will fall out of the head before long.  There's nothing wrong with 3" per se, except that it's a pita to fit. 

Reply #21February 19, 2019, 10:06:52 pm

Huc

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #21 on: February 19, 2019, 10:06:52 pm »
Fitment isn't an issue, I've made 3" downpipe for the 1.6TD on MK2 chassis before.

Reply #22October 09, 2020, 06:50:19 am

Huc

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Re: 1992 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #22 on: October 09, 2020, 06:50:19 am »
An update will come soon.

Reply #23October 09, 2020, 08:28:56 pm

ryangalliford

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Re: 1992 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #23 on: October 09, 2020, 08:28:56 pm »
lookin great! thanks for the updates!

Reply #24October 27, 2020, 04:20:09 am

Huc

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Re: 1992 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #24 on: October 27, 2020, 04:20:09 am »
Here's the long awaited update!

I want to run a catch can, but I don't want to use the stock plastic CCV oil separator that plugs into the valve cover. I think it looks too bulky and it is made up of too many joints. More joints mean more potential areas for oil to leak. I wire wheeled the valve cover to bare metal, cleaned with acetone, and mocked up a 304 stainless 1" tubing onto the hole where the stock CCV used to plug into. I used stainless steel whenever possible for more corrosion resistance.







I painted all the remaining refinished mild steel accessories and brackets with beige over POR15. I left some components black for some contrast.

For the aluminum accessories and brackets, I used a wire wheel to remove all of the original paint. I cleaned with acetone, phosphoric acid etch, and then self etching primer for the first coat.









I used silver for the top coat.





Here is the result after all of the accessories and brackets have been refinished.
I showed the side with the part number where possible if someone stumbles upon this thread in the future needing reference.





















Replaced the rear main seal.



The intermediate shaft bearing didn't look too bad, but I still decided to replace it. The intermediate shaft bearing is located between the crank gear and the injection pump gear. The intermediate shaft bearing wears slowly overtime and should not require replacement often. However, it is not uncommon to find excessive wear on this part. This is caused by timing belt jobs that have not been performed correctly. The Bentley manual states that the correct tension of the timing belt has been achieved when the belt could be twisted to 45 degrees, but no more. The common mistake people make when performing the timing belt on these engines is twisting the belt at the wrong location. The twist test should be performed between the injection pump gear and the intermediate shaft pulley. If there is only 45 degrees of allowable twist between the camshaft gear and the injection pump gear (where most people mistakenly perform this twist test on), the belt will be too tight, causing premature wear on the intermediate shaft bearing.

There is a pressurized oil port located where the intermediate shaft bearing sits. When the intermediate shaft bearing has excessive wear, the gap between the intermediate shaft bearing and the intermediate shaft itself will be too great, allowing excessive oil to leak out through that port. This will cause the other oil ports to receive less oil and causing reduced lubricity. When the wear is too great, engine damage will result as the other engine components receive less lubrication.







I used a bearing race driver to remove the old bearing.









When installing the new bearing, use a marker to help align the oil port, then slowly drive the new bearing in. If the oil port is misaligned, the intermediate shaft bearing may risk damage from insufficient lubrication. I didn't have it lined up perfectly the first time, so I ordered another new bearing to ensure that the port was perfectly aligned. After replacing the intermediate shaft bearing, I installed a new intermediate shaft seal.

I found out my crank gear was missing a chunk. I'm not really sure how this happened, the car appeared to drive fine during my ownership. I'm not sure what could have caused this.



The crank gear is torqued on very tightly, I think it is one of the tightest bolts on this car. Since the engine was detached from the transmission and the rear end of the engine was mounted on the engine stand, I was unable to lock the crank in position while undoing the crank gear bolt.

I didn't want to use an impact gun to remove it because the shock from the impact may risk damaging the components along the crank. I had no choice but to fabricate a tool to hold the crank gear in place while removing the bolt.

I used 304 stainless to make the tool because I hate rust.





I replaced the crank seal and the front main seal while the crank gear was being replaced.





I didn't want to use the original cork material gasket for the valve cover because it doesn't seal as well and would require a replacement everytime I remove the valve cover. To fit the rubber valve cover gasket, extended valve cover studs are required, since the thickness of the rubber valve cover gasket is much greater than the original cork style gasket. One of the original valve cover studs was extremely tight, I couldn't remove it by locking two nuts together and turning the bottom one counter clockwise. I purchased some class 10 grade steel nuts to get a tighter lock without stripping, but it was still too tight to remove without turning the nut on the stud. I had no choice but to weld the nut on the stud.



If you attempt to perform this task, make sure that you use a welder that does not splatter or spark, otherwise you will damage the engine head and the components inside. I used a TIG welder to perform the job and took extra precautions to cover all of the exposed engine head components before welding. Luckily, the weld was very clean and smooth, there was no spark and splatter at all (even with TIG welding, splatter may occur when the part has contamination).

It is also important to ground the engine head at the point closest to the weld. If the ground is placed far away, the current may jump through the engine head components and cause damage.



New studs all installed.



ARP head studs installed.





The engine head was then installed back onto the block, along with some of the refinished accessories and brackets.

The ARP headstuds were installed according to the pattern provided by ARP's instructions, using the provided lubricated grease to achieve accurate torque specs. The grease has to be applied on the washer surfaces, as well as the nuts. The grease on these surfaces will reduce friction to a minimal. If the grease is not used on all these surfaces, the coefficient of friction between the hardware will be greater, and a final torque spec of 125ft-lbs may be achieved before the sufficient clamping force has been achieved. Accurate torque spec reading is the only way to ensure that the correct clamping force has been applied. 





New oil filter housing gasket, new coolant flange, new waterpump and o-ring installed.



New camshaft seal and new timing belt tensioner were also installed.



« Last Edit: October 27, 2020, 07:22:10 am by Huc »

Reply #25October 27, 2020, 06:22:29 am

Huc

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Re: 1992 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #25 on: October 27, 2020, 06:22:29 am »
I received a very expensive package.









I sent my pump out to Giles for a performance rebuild. I also purchased new genuine GTD nozzles from the Euro MK2 1.6GTD. These will provide more fueling than the stock nozzles. These too were sent out to Giles for balancing, as well as refurbishing the original injector bodies. I requested Giles to do a custom tune to accommodate the hardware that I intended to run.

I never send my cars to shops and businesses to have work performed on them because I find that very few shops in my area have the level of care and attention to detail that I do. I have seen quality compromising shortcuts taken, even by the most reputable shops and tuners in my area. Because of this, I have always done everything myself. If it's a lack of know-how, skill, or equipment withholding me from completing the task, I'd always take the time to learn the skill and buy the required equipment, so that I could do it myself. However, doing a performance rebuild on this pump was not feasible with the equipment I have, and I wanted an optimized performance build - not just a governor removal and fueling adjustments. There wasn't enough information available to build a pump that matches what Giles can do. Coupled with his reputation and track record, I decided it was worth the risk to send my pump to Giles for a performance rebuild.

When I received the pump and injectors, I immediately tested the injectors with my pop tester. They were all balanced and had a good spray pattern, so it was a good start.



I installed the new injectors with new injector heat shields and a new coolant flange on the engine head.



I installed the new injection pump.





New timing belt installed.



I had the pump timing set to 1.05mm with my dial indicator.



I turned the engine upside down to clean the mating surface for the oil pan gasket and windage tray installation.





I fabricated a new accessory belt tensioner using all stainless components.



Installing belts, pulleys, and engine mount.



Reliability being the top priority in this build, I opted for the MK4 R32 VR6 oil cooler to help keep temperatures in check. 







Mocking up spacing for the custom intake manifold.



The goal here is to maximize width and height on the plenum, whilst giving the valve cover studs enough space to fit a deep socket over the valve cover nuts. This is to ensure that the valve cover can be easily removed after enlarging the intake manifold.



I will run a less modified intake manifold for now, just to get the car running and to break in the new hydraulic lifters. TIG welding the cast aluminum went quite smoothly. One of the cleaner cast aluminum parts I have welded.



The engine is almost ready to go in.



New rear main seal.



New clutch, flywheel, pressure plate. Using the MK2 16v clutch and pressure plate to hold more torque.



Engine installed.





I was pleasantly surprised by the amount of space between the oil filter and the cross member. It was plenty of space to do oil changes without struggle. My friend's AHU swapped B4 Passat also had his oil cooler upgraded to the R32's and it had little to no space left between the oil filter and the cross member.

Shot of the windage tray.



Mocking up the 3" downpipe. Plenty of clearance.



The stock downpipe was made of very thick cast iron, along with a brace that mounts on the rear of the engine below the turbo manifold. I have seen many aftermarket downpipes from all sorts of cars crack after just a few years, sometimes even months. Sometimes it is caused by insufficient penetration, lack of back purging (welds sugaring up on the backside results in a granular, weaker structure), or welding too slow and hot, causing weld embrittlement and large HAZ. A lot of the times, I also find poor design and engineering to contribute to cracking downpipes. Going from the thick and beefy OEM cast iron downpipe to thin walled 1/16" stainless steel, there is already a significant compromise in strength. If there is no bracing to support the downpipe from all the diesel engine's vibration, it is not a matter of if, but when it'll fail. While the stock downpipe is underwhelming in performance, it is built to last and never fails. My goal is to build a downpipe that won't bottleneck power, flows well for low EGTs, but well designed and engineered like the OEM one - strong and reliable.

To that, I began mocking up a brace to support the downpipe. The brace will help match the rhythm of vibration between the downpipe and the engine. The flex pipe will help mellow out any additional vibration that was not taken up by the brace.

I used 1/8" 304 stainless steel for all the bracing components and hardware.





« Last Edit: October 27, 2020, 06:31:00 am by Huc »

Reply #26October 27, 2020, 07:09:21 am

Huc

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Re: 1992 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #26 on: October 27, 2020, 07:09:21 am »
Now, on to fabricating the rest of the exhaust. The downpipe-back section of the exhaust is stepped down to 2.5". All the flanges, clamps and hardware are 304 stainless. The exhaust will be comprised of 3 sections - a straight section coming off the downpipe, an "S" section beneath the rear passenger seat, and a rear section behind the rear suspension beam. Having the exhaust in 3 pieces will make removal and installation easier in the future. The rear section is also designed to allow quick and easy swaps to a setup with a muffler. The exhaust will currently run with no muffler and 1 resonator. The resonator is from a Subaru BRZ. The size is also 2.5", comprised of 304 stainless. I redesigned the hanger for the straight section so that it's more similar to the MK3 hanger design. The MK2 hanger in that section is hung off one hook that is slightly off center. It provides less lateral support than the MK3 design, and I find it more difficult to remove and install.





























Mocking up the rear section with a stool. It must be positioned perfectly in the center.





Next, I replaced the inner and outer tie rods. The inners were very difficult to remove without a tool. I didn't have a tool to remove them, so I made one.













The car was ready for its first start. I used a Mityvac to pull a vacuum on the fuel return nozzle off of the injection pump to bleed the lines, pump, and injectors. The lines sat for a long time disconnected as I swapped over the fuel tank and lines from the diesel car, so it took a while to get fuel running through. After bleeding, I proceeded to start the car. The engine cranked very weakly and was unable to start. After some diagnosing, I noticed that the cable connecting the starter to the solenoid had broken off more than halfway. Too much resistance, not enough amperage to push the starter quickly. I soldered it back and the car fired up immediately. I varied the RPMs above 2000 to break in the new lifters for about 20 minutes and did an oil change.

Here is a video of a cold start after the first oil change.

https://youtu.be/06_Zu2h74So

Here is a video of the exhaust note. It's deep and rumbly, I love it.

https://i.imgur.com/vcg74Mf.mp4

« Last Edit: October 27, 2020, 07:28:12 am by Huc »

Reply #27October 27, 2020, 09:43:22 am

Dennis Froelich

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Re: 1992 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #27 on: October 27, 2020, 09:43:22 am »
Very nice build sir!! Beautiful Coupe!!
Exhaust note sounds great also.
79 Golf GTD
96 Golf GTD(TDI)

Reply #28October 27, 2020, 11:30:34 am

libbydiesel

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Re: 1992 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #28 on: October 27, 2020, 11:30:34 am »
Fun to see.  Thanks for sharing.  What is your plan for the crank vent?  If you connect back to the intake (per stock routing) then you need the hockey puck as a safety measure to help prevent diesel runaway.  I think it is bad manners to vent to atmosphere.

Reply #29October 29, 2020, 12:40:19 am

fatmobile

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Re: 1992 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #29 on: October 29, 2020, 12:40:19 am »
 With the bald spots on those valve cover studs,
 that might not be clamped down enough to seal.
 Without additional washers.

 Great exhaust build.
 Here's apic of the MK2 downpipe I built:
td_outpipe by vwfatmobile, on Flickr

 Big fan of the toilet bowl, ha.
 That's how the stock one was supported.
 Must agree wouldn't last long without support.

 Also wanted to mention that looks like a solid crank holder.
 and that torqueing that crank bolt works great with the engine sitting on the ground.
 With that brace against the ground you can just push down on the breaker bar.
 Hardly moves the engine at all.
 All the force goes into the ground.
« Last Edit: October 29, 2020, 12:48:48 am by fatmobile »
Tornado red, '91 Golf 4 door,
with a re-ringed, '84 quantum, turbo diesel, MD block

 

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