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Author Topic: 1992 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build  (Read 12393 times)

February 09, 2019, 03:15:14 am

Huc

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1992 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« on: February 09, 2019, 03:15:14 am »
This is kind of a long story. Lots of pictures.

It began with my 1990 4 Door Jetta (1.6TD MF, KKK K24). This was my first diesel car and was my daily driver for two years. It was mechanically solid and had a decent body, an overall great car.

I had a blast driving this car, it had enough power to have fun, but slow enough to allow driving at the car's limit without getting myself into trouble. Coming from a MK3 VR6 daily, this was surprisingly more fun. It felt more nimble and could be driven at the limit much more often without being dangerous. Most importantly, 1000km-1300km every tank.  :-*

I also love the styling of the MK2. I've never owned a car that looked good from every angle (all my prior cars had some sort of noticeable body damage). Don't get me wrong, this car was far from perfect - but it looked pretty damn good from a distance.  :)





Unfortunately, this didn't last long. A little over a year of ownership, I was caught up in an accident during a cruise. A mountain sheep ran out and my car was never the same again.  >:(







The accident took place about 350km away from home. Luckily, the damage was only cosmetic and I was able to drive home without any issues.
The hood, headlight, bumper support, outer fender, inner fender, and bumper were damaged. The bumper support was bent as well.





My friend had a MK2 parts car laying around with all the front end parts that I needed.
However, the inner fender and bumper support were also bent. Since these sections were a part of the chassis and could not be bolted off, I had to cut donor sections from the parts car to weld onto mine.





I saw that the battery tray was rusting as well, so I welded in new metal.





The repair went very well and all the panels lined up better than I had expected.
The car drove the same as before and I continued to daily it for another year.

Even though the car drove the same, I didn't feel the same about it.
The crash caused a dent by the sunroof (it crumpled down from the compression), the door was a bit damaged by the hinge, and the panel gaps were no longer perfect.

Due to these noticeable imperfections, I didn't feel the same way about the car anymore when I looked at it. I used to look at my car all the time after parking it, admiring its styling. After the crash, I just felt sad whenever I looked at it.  :(

Since then, I began looking for another MK2 chassis to swap my engine into. I searched the classifieds almost everyday, looking for a suitable candidate.
I wanted a MK2 Golf because the lighter chassis would net better fuel economy. I would also have the convenience of a hatch, which is a plus for a daily driver.

My criteria for a candidate were as follows:
- must have no major rust
- no body damage
- clean title

I thought my criteria was not too strict. The condition of the engine and transmission did not matter, since I was going to swap my 1.6TD in.
I was open to either manual or automatic candidates. The mileage didn't matter either, insofar as the body was good and car was rust free.

However, the ideal candidate was much harder to find than expected.
I personally went to look at many MK2s where the owner had advertised it as "rust free", only to find rocker or underbody rust.  >:(
I know that it is difficult to find a rust free candidate for a car this old, but if I can see rust formed to the extent that it rips through the undercoating and reveals itself, then there is going to be much more than the tip of the iceberg.
I also know that there are MK2s out there without said extensive rust.

After about a year of searching, I found a suitable candidate.   :)
Not a Golf, but I had to widen my criteria because having a clean chassis was more important.





A non-running 1992 Jetta Coupe with 1.8L 8v, engine code RV. Previous owner had recently repainted the car and didn't finish putting everything back together.
I brought my paint depth gauge with me to make sure all the panels were okay and didn't have any bondo'd repairs.
The underbody was pristine, no visible rust at all. The pinch welds were perfect, it looked like they were never used as jacking points, which is quite rare.
The paint job was by no means perfect. There were some runs and orange peel, but there was also plenty of clearcoat to work with to remedy these issues.
The windows and trim were removed for painting, suggesting that an attempt was made to properly paint the car.

My sedan had a beautiful shift boot and e-brake boot, so I swapped them over to the coupe. I think they were from a MK2 GTI.  :-*



I pulled the gasser engine from the coupe.







I installed new e-brake cables, new drum shoes, and swapped the Bilsteins over from my sedan to the coupe.

I pulled the fuel tanks and fuel lines out as well to swap from gasoline to diesel.
I might have been able to just drain the tank and lines out, but it wasn't much work to remove them. I didn't want to risk introducing gasoline into the injection pump and causing wear from reduced lubricity. 



After I removed the tank, I found some rust by the fuel door, rear strut tower seam, and the half-circle shaped section where the filler neck bolts onto.







These areas trap water and have a propensity to rust. I wasn't able to catch these areas during the inspection, since it's not visible without removing the fuel tank.
The rust at the filler neck was tricky to remove, there was very little space and I couldn't fit my cut off wheel. Luckily, the air saw had a small blade that made quick work of it.





It took a while to fabricate the pieces to weld it, it has an odd curve to it. Welding was a bit difficult because visibility was poor.
I couldn't get my head very close with the welding helmet on; space was very tight under the wheel well.



I scuffed up the area with sandpaper for better paint cohesion, and applied some phosphoric acid for further etching and flash rust prevention. 



After etching, I wiped down the bare metal completely with acetone in preparation for POR-15 application.



The same process was repeated for the other areas.

I wire wheeled the seam until it is free of rust.



Welded the seam.



Etched, wiped, and then painted.



Same for the half circle where the filler neck bolts onto.







I applied PRO FORM's Urethane Seam Sealer on afterwards (forgot to take pictures  >:()

I removed the engine, transmission and wiring harness.



So dirty hahahaha!  ;D





Got everything I needed from the sedan and sent it off to the scrapper.  :( :( :(







Farewell! :(



Updates to come!
« Last Edit: November 01, 2019, 03:33:23 pm by Huc »



Reply #1February 09, 2019, 08:52:30 am

Huc

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #1 on: February 09, 2019, 08:52:30 am »
I started by replacing some of the seals and bushings on the transmission while it is out. I followed the guide on brokevw website for 020 transmission service.

Here, I replaced the pushrod seal, pushrod bushing, throwout bearing, input shaft seal and the end cap.

First, I tapped threads for the old bushing. The material was very soft and easy to tap.



I made a tool to pull out the bushing. I welded a bolt onto a small pipe, which is welded onto a square tube.







The tool worked very well. The square bar at the end can be used as a handle for pulling, or as a surface to hit with two hammers to break the bushing loose.
I wasn't able to remove it by pulling, but tapping both ends at the same time with two hammers broke it loose with ease.

Next on the list was the input shaft seal. This one was quite difficult.
I carefully drilled two pilot holes and inserted the wood screws into the seal.
I used two pliers (one for each screw) and pulled for about half an hour until they came out. It was very tight, but the method worked.







If you are doing this, be very patient and cautious. Don't drill and insert the screws too deep (but enough for it to grip tightly, since a significant amount of force is needed to pull this out) as it may damage the bearing from behind.
It may take a lot of pulling and tugging without showing any signs of budging - just keep working at it.

Next was the end cap and throwout bearing. The end cap was much tighter than I expected. I had to be careful not to damage the mating surface, and not to drop any debris inside the transmission during the process.



After the cap end is off, the throwout bearing can be replaced. You can see the wear mark (indentation in the center) on the old one.



I have never seen a throwout bearing design like this, I quite like it.
I like the idea of it being constantly lubricated in gear oil and being made up of simple solid parts. Overall, it seems to have fewer failure points than a clutch fork design.

New pushrod seal installed.



Transmission cleaned.





« Last Edit: February 15, 2019, 07:07:32 am by Huc »

Reply #2February 13, 2019, 11:46:06 am

Buji88

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #2 on: February 13, 2019, 11:46:06 am »
Dude!! Thank you for sharing, Im watching the crap out of this! Ever since I've been getting into VW diesel engines I've been getting into VW cars. Id love to find a MKI or MK2 2 door Golf for to do a sweet 1.6TD build! If you ever need a hand Im in Pitt meadows!

Reply #3February 14, 2019, 12:31:21 am

fatmobile

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #3 on: February 14, 2019, 12:31:21 am »
No doubt, nice job.
 Glad to see you are able to do this level of quality work.
 Can only point to one thing I would change.
 I once removed the pushrod tube bushing with a tap,
 because it was so worn I couldn't do it my usual way.
Even though I ran a brush down the tube, sprayed and cleaned it,
 there must have been a brass shaving left that took out the seal.
 I usually run a 5/16" rod down the tube from the throwout bearing end and tap them both out.
 You got the seal set in slightly recessed, just right.
 Thanks for caring enough about the MK2 to keep one alive.
 As you found out there aren't many good ones left.
Tornado red, '91 Golf 4 door,
with a re-ringed, '84 quantum, turbo diesel, MD block

Reply #4February 14, 2019, 11:32:29 pm

Huc

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #4 on: February 14, 2019, 11:32:29 pm »
Dude!! Thank you for sharing, Im watching the crap out of this! Ever since I've been getting into VW diesel engines I've been getting into VW cars. Id love to find a MKI or MK2 2 door Golf for to do a sweet 1.6TD build! If you ever need a hand Im in Pitt meadows!

These old VW diesel engines are awesome! They're reliable, simple and gets great fuel economy.

There's a MK2 Jetta 1.6TD right now on Craigslist asking $1800.

I'll definitely give you a shout if I do, thanks!

Reply #5February 14, 2019, 11:39:48 pm

Huc

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #5 on: February 14, 2019, 11:39:48 pm »
No doubt, nice job.
 Glad to see you are able to do this level of quality work.
 Can only point to one thing I would change.
 I once removed the pushrod tube bushing with a tap,
 because it was so worn I couldn't do it my usual way.
Even though I ran a brush down the tube, sprayed and cleaned it,
 there must have been a brass shaving left that took out the seal.
 I usually run a 5/16" rod down the tube from the throwout bearing end and tap them both out.
 You got the seal set in slightly recessed, just right.
 Thanks for caring enough about the MK2 to keep one alive.
 As you found out there aren't many good ones left.

Ah, I didn't know it was that simple to push it out from the back. That seems like an easier and safer way to do it without much more work, I hope I didn't leave any shavings behind.

MK2s are beautiful cars, it's a shame that so many of them aren't well kept. Rust prevention is key. Any signs of rust should be dealt with ASAP, and the underbody should be upkept regularly with oil spraying.


Reply #6February 15, 2019, 12:04:47 am

fatmobile

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #6 on: February 15, 2019, 12:04:47 am »
It's sort of easy.
 You have to run the rod down the side until it hits the bushing.
 Not alot to grab but usually enough,
 only once did I have to use a tap, when there wasn't enough bushing left to catch.

 I tap the new one in using an allen head bolt, like an intake bolt.

 I was working on a guys MK2 Jetta TD for over a year.
 Every time I drove it I wanted to get my MK2 golf back on the road.
 Too many cars. I drive the Rabbit and whatever I'm finishing up to sell,
 then usually someone elses that I'm working on.
 The MK2 Golf is one of my favorites. If I can sell a couple cars this summer I'll be driving it again.
Tornado red, '91 Golf 4 door,
with a re-ringed, '84 quantum, turbo diesel, MD block

Reply #7February 15, 2019, 06:27:41 am

Huc

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #7 on: February 15, 2019, 06:27:41 am »
Some updates.

I was planning to drop the motor in and get the car on the road sooner, and then do the T-belt and ARP head studs later down the road.
I thought about it for a while and decided it was best to do everything while the motor was out because I didn't want to pull the motor again.

Things on my list to replace are:
- hydraulic lifters (current ones aren't too bad, but they get stuck and tick once in a while)
- valve seals
- 1.9TD AAZ metal headgasket
- ARP headstuds

First, I pulled the head to clean and inspect.


I used a green Scotchbrite pad with some aluminum safe Zep cleaner to remove the dirt and grease. 





Checked the head for warpage, was within spec (under 0.004" as per Bentley). Typical cracks between valves, but very thin (also within spec).
Surprised that the Bentley outlines a tolerance for crack size. Not often I see cracks in the cylinder head of engines to be considered "normal".  :o

I removed the valve keepers with Lisle's 36050 valve keeper removal tool. The valve seals were tighter than I expected, I had to be very careful not to scratch the walls where the hydraulic lifters sit.

After removing the head components, I went ahead to lap the valves. Most of the seats had little to no pitting, but I figured it wouldn't hurt.



I was glad I bothered to lap the valves because I found that all 4 exhaust valves had excessive side to side play during lapping. Oddly, the intake valves were perfect, I couldn't feel any play at all.
I didn't bother setting up my dial indicator to measure the amount of play because I could tell by feel that it was far too much. Just the thought of those worn guides causing valve wobble during high rpm made me cringe.

Valve guide removal can be done in a number of ways. I read that some have used a press to push them out, and some others used an air hammer. An air hammer seemed too risky due to the lack of control.
I considered using a press as it would lend more control (less risk of missing and damaging the head), but the idea of pushing the valve out with all the forces applied from a single point didn't sit well with me.  :-\

As the guide pushes outward from compressional force (press' applied force vs. friction between the guide and the wall), it applies an outward force on the valve guide walls.
I worry that this mushrooming will risk enlarging the guide walls - changing its dimensions.
While the valve guides are made of fairly soft material and the horizontal forces shouldn't be enough to change the guide walls' dimensions, the aluminum on the head is also quite soft. In the end, I felt that this was an unnecessary risk if a safer method exists.

I thought about this for a while and decided to use a tap to pull out the valve guide.



Unlike pressing, pulling the guide out provides control and removes the guide without exerting outward forces onto the guide walls from mushrooming.
Finding the correctly sized nut, bolt and tap was difficult though.

Since the 1.6TD uses 8mm valve guides, a M9 tap would be ideal.
M9 is wide enough to tap deep threads for the bolt to grab on, but not so wide that it'd risk ripping through the guide's outer diameter and into the guide walls (incase the tap wasn't perfectly centered).

While M9 taps were widely common, M9 nuts and bolts were a hard find. I called up several hardware stores and none of them carried M9 bolts. Only one of them carried an M9 nut, but it had to be special ordered.
I pulled up a chart of hardware dimensions to see if there was something more attainable with dimensions similar to M9.
Everything was either too large or too small. I didn't want to risk stripping the thread (should the guides be too tight), or tapping into the guide wall.

After a lot of digging, I found an M9 in the pitch and length I needed. I was a used crankcase bolt from a Porsche Cayman, PN#99610120300 - I found it on eBay.  :-*

After tapping the M9 thread into the 8mm valve guides, I placed a socket on the base of where the valve spring seat sits. I inserted the M9 bolt with the M9 nut screwed in.
I used a bunch of washers to space it out, so the nut would be high enough for me to comfortably turn it with a wrench.
By tightening the nut down, it pushes the socket down onto the valve spring seat's base. The base acts as support while the nut forces the bolt upwards, which pulls the guide out.
This went very smoothly and all 4 guides were removed in short time.  :)

Finding the M9 hardware was the most difficult part. On the 1.9 engines with 7mm guides, this would be much easier as M8 hardware are widely available.



The head was thoroughly cleaned to remove debris from tapping and 4 new guides were pressed in with a deep socket placed on the guide's lip.



The old glow plug bus bar was worn and cracked.



I bought some copper and used the old bar as a template to make a new one.



I installed new valve seals with a drinking straw and proceeded to the springs, keepers, retainers, and lifters.

I wasn't able to use the Lisle tool to re-install the valve keepers, I think it was designed for cars with smaller keepers. I didn't have any other tool for compressing valve springs, so I had to make my own.





This worked very well.





Retainers were installed, and in went the lifters and cam.



« Last Edit: February 15, 2019, 07:07:59 am by Huc »

Reply #8February 15, 2019, 07:45:38 am

Huc

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #8 on: February 15, 2019, 07:45:38 am »
I removed the injectors to pop test and ordered new heat shields to replace.
I didn't have a pop tester and figured it would be a worthwhile investment as I'll probably tinker with diesel engines for years to come.
3/4 had a good spray pattern, no leaks and popped at the same pressure. One of them sprayed a stream instead of popping, so a new injector was ordered to replace.

Now that the head is mostly ready (just needs studs replaced with longer ones for rubber valve cover gasket), I began prepping the block.
It was VERY DIRTY.  :P







Some areas had a thick layer of grime, it was almost like a paste. Using a wire brush would quickly ruin it as the wires would get clogged up with the grime.
I found that user a scraper was the best approach to remove the initial large clumps of grime. After the large chunks are removed, I used a wire brush to free up grime in the pores.

Here it is after wire brushing and using some degreaser, scrubbing with Scotchbrite.



Sprayed on more degreaser and Klean Strip.



After "marinating" for a few minutes.



Dried everything up and wiped down with acetone.



Sponge brushed on POR-15.



Painted a blue-ish grey.



Same for the other side.















The black looks pretty good, but I want to see where my oil leaks come from.

Next, I cleaned the deck surface and prepped the the holes for the head studs.



I taped up all the holes to prevent debris from falling in. I used pipe cleaners and ear cleaning cotton swabs to clean the bolt holes.
After cleaning, I cleaned up the threads with a tap for an accurate torque reading when bolting on the head.


Reply #9February 15, 2019, 08:20:25 am

Huc

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #9 on: February 15, 2019, 08:20:25 am »
It's sort of easy.
 You have to run the rod down the side until it hits the bushing.
 Not alot to grab but usually enough,
 only once did I have to use a tap, when there wasn't enough bushing left to catch.

 I tap the new one in using an allen head bolt, like an intake bolt.

 I was working on a guys MK2 Jetta TD for over a year.
 Every time I drove it I wanted to get my MK2 golf back on the road.
 Too many cars. I drive the Rabbit and whatever I'm finishing up to sell,
 then usually someone elses that I'm working on.
 The MK2 Golf is one of my favorites. If I can sell a couple cars this summer I'll be driving it again.

Too many cars...I have the same problem. Too many ideas and not enough time. I love the MK2 Golf too, but hard to find a clean one. I think MK2 Jettas are more common and easier to find in good condition.

Reply #10February 15, 2019, 12:26:46 pm

libbydiesel

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #10 on: February 15, 2019, 12:26:46 pm »
Nice work.  A couple comments.  Polish the pre-chamber inserts until they shine and inspect for small cracks.  Common thought used to be that small cracks in the inserts were fine.  This happened approximately 3,000 miles after a rebuild with the typical small cracks in the inserts. 





I was lucky the block was salvageable but obviously the head and piston were trash.

At this point I wouldn't recommend installing a head with any cracks in the inserts.  I've gotten new inserts from Great Brittain, but it was a pain and kind of expensive.  Details are in the archives.

I use an air hammer and appropriately sized valve guide driver for removing and inserting the guides.  I use a reamer for finishing the holes to size.

I hand lap the head gasket surface of the head using lubed (wd-40 or similar) 120 grit sandpaper spray glued to true flat polished granite that is setting on a solid flat surface.  That's worked perfectly for several heads that I have done. 

I'd recommend using a very light coat of hylomar spray on both sides of the gasket, on the block, and on the head.  It works great to prevent the weeping leaks at the oil drains and especially at the pressurized oil channel between 3 & 4 (which appears to be why the front of your block was so gross). 

I look forward to seeing more.  Good luck.

 

Reply #11February 15, 2019, 10:32:25 pm

fatmobile

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #11 on: February 15, 2019, 10:32:25 pm »
 I like the idea of using a tap to remove the guides.

 I believe a valve seal works great around the dipstick tube and fits right in the hole.

Gonna check the intermediate shaft bearings while it's out right?
 
 Run a separate wire to each glow plug.
 So if one goes bad it's easier to find out which one.
 I usually run them out to the #4 plug,
 They won't all bolt to that one so I use a short piece of copper with 2 holes
 and it bolts to the #4 along with the #3 wire, the extra hole is for #1, #2 and power.
Tornado red, '91 Golf 4 door,
with a re-ringed, '84 quantum, turbo diesel, MD block

Reply #12February 15, 2019, 10:38:31 pm

Huc

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #12 on: February 15, 2019, 10:38:31 pm »
Nice work.  A couple comments.  Polish the pre-chamber inserts until they shine and inspect for small cracks.  Common thought used to be that small cracks in the inserts were fine.  This happened approximately 3,000 miles after a rebuild with the typical small cracks in the inserts. 





I was lucky the block was salvageable but obviously the head and piston were trash.

At this point I wouldn't recommend installing a head with any cracks in the inserts.  I've gotten new inserts from Great Brittain, but it was a pain and kind of expensive.  Details are in the archives.

I use an air hammer and appropriately sized valve guide driver for removing and inserting the guides.  I use a reamer for finishing the holes to size.

I hand lap the head gasket surface of the head using lubed (wd-40 or similar) 120 grit sandpaper spray glued to true flat polished granite that is setting on a solid flat surface.  That's worked perfectly for several heads that I have done. 

I'd recommend using a very light coat of hylomar spray on both sides of the gasket, on the block, and on the head.  It works great to prevent the weeping leaks at the oil drains and especially at the pressurized oil channel between 3 & 4 (which appears to be why the front of your block was so gross). 

I look forward to seeing more.  Good luck.


I have read up extensively on the issue while doing the head and also came across your post.
I couldn't find any inserts available, and I'm doubtful that any of the machine shops in my area are competent enough to do it properly.

If I can find the inserts and a shop that is guaranteed to install them properly, then I would definitely do them.
If not, I'd rather leave them alone. It's not ideal, but I've heard of more stories from them falling out when improperly installed than when leaving them alone on a head that hasn't been resurfaced.

Good call on the hylomar spray, I am planning to use that to get a better seal, especially that I'm using MLS.

Reply #13February 15, 2019, 11:01:53 pm

Huc

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #13 on: February 15, 2019, 11:01:53 pm »
I like the idea of using a tap to remove the guides.

 I believe a valve seal works great around the dipstick tube and fits right in the hole.

Gonna check the intermediate shaft bearings while it's out right?
 
 Run a separate wire to each glow plug.
 So if one goes bad it's easier to find out which one.
 I usually run them out to the #4 plug,
 They won't all bolt to that one so I use a short piece of copper with 2 holes
 and it bolts to the #4 along with the #3 wire, the extra hole is for #1, #2 and power.

Yes, the intermediate shaft bearings will probably need replacing, although I haven't checked yet.

I always change glow plugs in entire sets, so the whole set is replaced when one starts to fail.
I do see how using separate wires will be more convenient for diagnosis, but I prefer the OEM design and look.
I think it makes for a tidier installation and something about a solid piece of copper makes me feel good. 
« Last Edit: February 15, 2019, 11:05:42 pm by Huc »

Reply #14February 16, 2019, 12:17:02 am

libbydiesel

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Re: 1990 Jetta Coupe 1.6TD Build
« Reply #14 on: February 16, 2019, 12:17:02 am »
I couldn't find any inserts available, and I'm doubtful that any of the machine shops in my area are competent enough to do it properly.

If I can find the inserts and a shop that is guaranteed to install them properly, then I would definitely do them.
If not, I'd rather leave them alone. It's not ideal, but I've heard of more stories from them falling out when improperly installed than when leaving them alone on a head that hasn't been resurfaced.

Good call on the hylomar spray, I am planning to use that to get a better seal, especially that I'm using MLS.

Did you see this thread?  http://vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php/topic,36096.msg340064.html#msg340064  I purchased 8 new 1.6TD inserts a few years back.  It was a hassle as I had to send money for the purchase to someone I knew in the UK, they needed to purchase the PCC inserts and ship them to me.  They were a perfect fit without any machining necessary.  Tap the old ones out, tap the new ones in. 

 

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