LDA for gauge install

[shwartzbewithyou]

Can someone point me towards the LDA on the 1.6TD?  What does it look like?

[LeeG]

on top of IP, shaped like a flying saucer, has a small rubber braid boost line from it to intake manifold

if your looking for a cheap gauge option, I got a 3" 0-15 PSI 'fuel pressure' gauge at princess auto for $12.  Works fine except mine occasionally makes a light buzzing sound.  Get one of their oil pressure gauge connection line kits too for another $4 and you have most of what you need to install.  15 PSI is fine for stock, my '91 wont go over 9 PSI

[malone]

mine occasionally makes a light buzzing sound.

The VDO boost gauges has that problem.. new ones even; the MKIV guys have covered this topic several times. A search at vwvortex using keywords "VDO AND buzzing" yields about 17 topics.

The popular solution is to install a cheap filter (intended for an aquarium, RC car, or from FRAM, etc) in-line. Here's a few threads:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1126315
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1102730
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=806536
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1232177

Fram fuel filter #G4164 might be easy to find in/order from your local parts store.

[shwartzbewithyou]

on top of IP, shaped like a flying saucer, has a small rubber braid boost line from it to intake manifold

if your looking for a cheap gauge option, I got a 3" 0-15 PSI 'fuel pressure' gauge at princess auto for $12.  Works fine except mine occasionally makes a light buzzing sound.  Get one of their oil pressure gauge connection line kits too for another $4 and you have most of what you need to install.  15 PSI is fine for stock, my '91 wont go over 9 PSI

Thanks for the direction.  I've got one up on you though.  I wandered through princess auto yesterday and saw the same gauge's that you bought, but I ended up in the hydraulics section and found a 0-30 PSI air filter gauge for $4.99.  

That goes in this weekend.

So I just Tee off that line, cool.

Thanks

[LeeG]

ah, but the gauge you bought isnt an automotive style gauge and doesnt have a light built in.  We have to maintain some standards!

Not that it really matters, mine is wedged between dash and windshield with a dirty rag and doenst have the light connected.   :oops:

Incidently, I picked up a MkIV A pillar 2 gauge pod.  A few minutes with a heat gun (and leather gloves) has it fitting my MkII

[veeman]

Those other filters seem like they might work, but on mine, I found a tee fitting that was made specifically for the gauge "buzz" purpose...

Here's a link about it...

http://www.newsouthperformance.com/fitting.htm

You can also find it at ECS tuning as well.  Pretty cheap $5-6.

[shwartzbewithyou]

ah, but the gauge you bought isnt an automotive style gauge and doesnt have a light built in.  We have to maintain some standards!

Not that it really matters, mine is wedged between dash and windshield with a dirty rag and doenst have the light connected.   :oops:

Incidently, I picked up a MkIV A pillar 2 gauge pod.  A few minutes with a heat gun (and leather gloves) has it fitting my MkII

 :lol:  It's ok that I don't have a light on it because i don't have dash lights anyways.  It'll fit right in with all the other pitch black gauges at night.

I love the fact that the car has so many issues but I'm spending my time on this stuff anyways :lol:

[veeman]

Heh-heh... I had an old Audi like that.  No dash lights (turned out to be bad bulbs / corroded terminals on the cluster).  

I ran around with it for about a month with a clip on flashlight attached to the bezel shining on the speedo.   Super cr_ptastic, but it was winter and I needed to drive the thing.

[stewardc]

Those other filters seem like they might work, but on mine, I found a tee fitting that was made specifically for the gauge "buzz" purpose...

Here's a link about it...

http://www.newsouthperformance.com/fitting.htm

You can also find it at ECS tuning as well.  Pretty cheap $5-6.

Trust me, it works.

[wyldman]

Easy to make your own fitting,with a restrictor.

Get a regular vacuum or windshield washer line "T" fitting.Using some quick set epoxy,fill the branch (the one going to your boost line) with about 1/4" of epoxy.After it dries,drill a very small hole through it.The smaller the hole,the less buzz you get,but the gauge will be slower to respond.The larger the hole,the faster the gauge reacts.Keep going slowly larger until you get a fairly responsive gauge reading,with no buzzing or needle flicker.If you go too far,epoxy it back up (or make another one),and go back down to a smaller hole.

You can also add the restrictor right at the gauge,as it will work better,without restricting the gauge response.Use the same epoxy trick,but use a vacuum line connector,or piece of 3/16" hardline to put your epoxy in.No need for a "T" fitting here.You can also use the fitting right on the gauge itself to add your epxoy restrictor.

Running a larger hose (in diameter) from T to the gauge will also help get rid of the buzz,as the added air volume in the hose acts as a buffer.

The setup on my Dodge CTD was really finiky.Big turbos,nitrous,and lots of fuel make for lots of boost,and a bouncing needle.I ran 1/4" nylon line right from the intake to the gauge,and then made a restrictor right at the gauge fitting.Gauge is now super steady,yet reacts instantly.

Another handy item is a peak boost gauge.Just use a cheap air pressure gauge,with a one way check valve in the line.It will now show what your peak (or max) boost is,with out trying to keep an eye on your boost gauge all the time.Just add a push button air valve to bleed of the stored pressure between the check valve and the gauge.This will allow you to reset it when you want.Keep the lines feeding this gauge as short and as small (in diameter) as possible so it is very accurate.You may be suprised at just how high the boost will spike sometime.This is a valuable tool for tuning different types of wastegates,and wastegate mods.You will now be able to see both peak boost (when the watse gate first starts to open),and sustained boost (wastegate in full control).The goal here is to keep peak and sustained boost as close as possible to each other.

[935racer]

Man just buy good gauges to start with, autometer are awesome, all the vdo stuff I have seen is ***, don't even get me started with autometer pyrometers, good grief total crap. Regular 0-30psi air pressure gauges work just fine, wyldman has got it witht he DIY adapter.

[shwartzbewithyou]

OK so I installed it.  The only prob is that I'm not sure it's reading right.  With both the BOV and wastegate blocked off I'm still only getting 16PSI at the most when the pedals right down and it's spooling hard.  
I think the tubing that I used may be stretching under the pressure after it get's warm on top of the engine.  I used the soft plastic hose that you get from the plumbing section at a hardware store.  It does get much more plyable after it get's hot.

Is there a specific type of hose that you have to use (hi temp/pressure)?

[wyldman]

You will need more "on boost" fuel to get more boost.You will now have to start playing with the boost pin.

You may be able to get a bit more with the fuel screw,but it will be smokey off boost,and may not want to idle down.

[hillfolk'r]

ihate autometer pyro's too,me and rabbittree each had one fail,,,i got a westach aircraft one for now,,from aircraft spruce,,reads 0-1900f,and has a c scale too,,like 60$ complete,works great!!!its the left  guage,in the 3 on the top of the dash,,on the right,has a little red spot on it

[Baxter]

Don't you just love that early dash..
Reminds me of my first car, 1980 Golf GLS, 1272cc or raw power.
I worked at a garage decommisioning commercial vehicles, we took the "Quality Meat, ask driver for details" sticker accorss the tailgate, right laugh..
Sorry, bit OT, I'll get my coat..