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Author Topic: high idle after injection pump rebuild and cold start lever does nothing  (Read 1622 times)

March 29, 2018, 12:22:08 am

Pearl1990

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I rebuilt my injection pump and now the cold start lever doesn't seem to increase the idle like it did before the rebuild. The idle itself is also higher than what it was before the rebuild, but I'm thinking that the timing on the pump might just be too advanced. Would that cause a higher idle?



Reply #1March 29, 2018, 10:38:32 pm

ORCoaster

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    Restoring a Caddy as time and weather allows
Advanced timing and increase of fuel screw both have an effect on idle.  I would double check timing then just back the idle down if that check turned out OK.

Oh and you might need to pull the lever towards engagement on the Cold Start after you loosen the keeper screw.  It is a cam type hub under the cover and you may have it set too far forward.  Release the hold on the cable and move the lever to the back of the IP.  Then make sure the knob is flush to the dash and retighten the keeper screw. 
« Last Edit: March 29, 2018, 10:41:02 pm by ORCoaster »

Reply #2March 31, 2018, 04:45:42 pm

Pearl1990

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Advanced timing and increase of fuel screw both have an effect on idle.  I would double check timing then just back the idle down if that check turned out OK.

Oh and you might need to pull the lever towards engagement on the Cold Start after you loosen the keeper screw.  It is a cam type hub under the cover and you may have it set too far forward.  Release the hold on the cable and move the lever to the back of the IP.  Then make sure the knob is flush to the dash and retighten the keeper screw.

So turns out the high idle was just from the cold start lever being improperly adjusted. What I thought was disengaged was still engaged and I tightened the keeper screw there with the handle flush with the dash. I loosened the keeper screw and pushed it down to the disengaged position. It's now properly set.

The problem now is that when I pull the lever out, I'm unable to push the lever all the way back in. It seems that it's too hard for the cable itself to push the lever back to the disengaged position.  When I push it back down with a screw driver, there seems to be a bit of resistance. The cable has also been pinched in a couple different places from the keeper screw. I've straightened it out the best I could but not sure if it's too weak to push the lever back down now.

Any suggestions?

Reply #3March 31, 2018, 10:23:46 pm

ORCoaster

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If all the keeper kinks are out of the cable then just push the knob all the way to the dash.  Then go loosen the keeper and with a screwdriver move the lever up the cable a little bit.  Then see if your knob will reach the dash.  You might just have set it too far towards the nose of the IP. 

In the fall pull the cable out of the lever and send some oil down the inner and outer portions of the whole control cable.  It is getting warm enough now that using the cold start isn't necessary is it?  I never even use mine here on the coast but then we seldom see 20 degrees either.

 

 

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