Very little boost on my mTDI ALH Vanagon install

[libbydiesel]

It will run reasonably well with 1.45 plunger lift at TDC provided it is sending the fuel to the correct delivery valve (hub installed correctly and hasn't slipped).  While the pulse adapter is very good for fine timing, it won't help you see whether or not the hub is installed for the correct delivery valve. 

I don't think that diesel pulse adapters have changed much.  I got mine of Ebay years ago. 

[Zeitgeist]

Yeah, the hub check is first, but I like the pulse adapter for fine adjustments and basic confirmation that timing is in the ballpark once running.  And, I can use it on my MBs, though those are pretty easy to time with other fancy electronic gizmos.  According to Ebay, it appears the Gunson pulse adapter is all there is on their platform--~$180.

 

[libbydiesel]

You could get a tinytach transducer and ~$10 of parts and make your own.  I haven't done that but it seems quite doable.











Of course that makes more sense if you want the tinytach.

[libbydiesel]

Here's the board as best as I can tell:

[libbydiesel]

Did you ever get the running situation sorted?

[Zeitgeist]

My new year's resolution is to find time to focus on the pump again.  I miss driving this van, and it's sad to see it just sitting there in my back yard.  Somewhere in my old PMs I have the procedure for setting the ALH hub on an LR pump, but I can't find it currently.  I'll also check the FAQ at the top of this page. 

I'm also in the process of re-doing the intake (Donaldson air cleaner) and exhaust in order to quiet things down back there. 

[libbydiesel]

There's not much to setting the hub.  Rotate the shaft until the keyway is pointing the same direction as the #1 injector's delivery valve (before the bump on the camplate).  Insert your dial indicator.  Rotate the shaft until you get the plunger lift you want.  Lock the shaft using an appropriate bolt in the side of the pump.  Add the hub and pin.  Torque the nut (preferably with a holder for the hub so you don't stress the lock bolt/shaft).

[Zeitgeist]

Thanks, I'll dig in and report back in a few days. 

[Zeitgeist]

Ok, I have the pump on the bench and took a few pics to show the setup and final setting I arrived at once I pointed the key toward #1 delivery valve.

Hopefully this shows the key and #1 valve.


Here's the gauge dialed to zero (the pic is a bit parallax, but the small pointer is at the line).


This is my final setting, 1.41


I'm hoping someone can confirm my settings before I torque down the hub.

[libbydiesel]

That all looks correct to me. 

[Zeitgeist]

Thanks, your sign-off provided me with the assurance I needed to install the hub.  I ended up setting the timing to 1.45, but I could not for the life of me find a definitive torque spec for the hub center nut.  I found folks stating the specs were from 33 to 70 ft/lbs.  I ended up opting for 40 ft/lbs.  I hope to install it on the engine later today or tomorrow. 

[libbydiesel]

I usually do 60 ft-lbs while holding the sprocket/hub.  The early sprocket with key had a 33 ft-lbs spec.  I feel like the hub with just taper and no key should have more, but that's just conjecture. 

[Zeitgeist]

Ok, I'm back on this project due to an unfortunate mishap with my daily driver, which cracked its cylinder head.  The added twist to this project is that I need to swap in another turbo because the K14 needs to go back on my OM606, as its getting swapped into my daily.  I need some advice as to what turbo and manifold I should buy to get the ALH back up and running.  The K14 was always a lousy match so I'm happy to get rid of it, but I don't know of a good and not too expensive option for an mTDI.  One not very good option would be to remove the T25 from my daily, but that's probably too big.  A VNT seems like the best option, but I'd need to figure out how to control the vanes, and I would have to revamp my driver side engine mount since the stock ALH manifold will run right into it.  Prothe (yes I know) claims to sell a stand alone turbo controller using the stock MAP and N75 valve for the VNTs https://www.hansautoparts.com/ROT906021A-Turbo-Controller.aspx .  Does anyone have experience with this?

Oh, and I still need to get the engine running, but that's just putting stuff together so I'll post about that later. 

[libbydiesel]

A K14 from an AAZ (different from the K14 you used) is a decent wastegated turbo.  The Garrett 1749VA from a B5.5 Passat is a good match if going with a VNT.  If you get the manifold as well, there is a good chance it will mount up without interference although that depends on your driver's side mounting bracket.  I have heard from one individual who ran the Prothe VNT control and the feedback was not positive.  I don't recall the details on it but it is not a route I would take. 

[Zeitgeist]

Without a way to control the vanes and the interference issues, I'm reluctant to invest in VNT...yet.  Right now I need to get this thing running again in the quickest manner, so I think I'll just go ahead and use that T25, since its a known entity.  It's coming off of a 2.5L instead of the 3.0L source for the K14, so maybe it'll spool better.  It would start spooling just off of 1k rpms on the 602 engine.  Anyway, I already ordered a T3 to T25 adapter and some V-band clamps so I can start welding up a new exhaust.  I'm going to move the cat closer to the downpipe so it heats up faster.  It's also getting a larger muffler and a new Donaldson air cleaner, so hopefully it will be quieter. 

Oh and, I recently read that some folks have had good luck running a GT2052 wastegated turbo on TDIs.  These use a T25 flange, so maybe I can upgrade to one in the future.  Any experience out there?