Author Topic: Attempted pump repair and rebuild  (Read 3285 times)

Reply #15March 08, 2018, 11:18:55 am

RabbitJockey

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Re: Attempted pump repair and rebuild
« Reply #15 on: March 08, 2018, 11:18:55 am »
would an alh pump fit in to that style of bracket?
01 Jetta TDI 100% stock daily
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Reply #16March 08, 2018, 01:30:04 pm

burn_your_money

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Re: Attempted pump repair and rebuild
« Reply #16 on: March 08, 2018, 01:30:04 pm »
would an alh pump fit in to that style of bracket?

Yes, they both have a 68m mounting diameter instead of the older 50mm mounting diameter
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Reply #17March 08, 2018, 05:57:36 pm

zuhandenheit

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Re: Attempted pump repair and rebuild
« Reply #17 on: March 08, 2018, 05:57:36 pm »
The seller is including the bracket, apparently. Thanks!

Reply #18March 08, 2018, 07:19:02 pm

libbydiesel

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Re: Attempted pump repair and rebuild
« Reply #18 on: March 08, 2018, 07:19:02 pm »
would an alh pump fit in to that style of bracket?

The LR/ALH pump will fit in that bracket but it doesn't have the casting for the extra timing belt roller.  I think that using the AHU bracket and having it machined is a better way to go, but some have run mTDIs without the extra roller. 

Reply #19March 08, 2018, 07:19:26 pm

libbydiesel

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Re: Attempted pump repair and rebuild
« Reply #19 on: March 08, 2018, 07:19:26 pm »
The seller is including the bracket, apparently. Thanks!

Excellent!

Reply #20March 20, 2018, 11:20:45 pm

zuhandenheit

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Re: Attempted pump repair and rebuild
« Reply #20 on: March 20, 2018, 11:20:45 pm »
As I said elsewhere, the IP install went smoothly.

I was concerned about the inner timing belt cover, which I realized -- as I was waiting for the pump -- wouldn't fit. I asked the seller if he had the correct cover, but he had just modified his with tin snips. I did the same.

The only problem is that there was no way to bolt the cover to the pump. It fits behind the lower TB cover and seems to be quite firmly in place.

--

The core pump that I bought arrived the other day. As I said, I should be able to use it at least to repair the rebuilt pump with a bad shaft bushing, but I'm not sure that it will be good for anything else -- the internals are extremely rusty. Also, lots of parts are different (this is no surprise). One of my pumps has a broken governor, for instance, and this one has a totally different design.

It's strange, actually: the exterior has very little rust and is quite clean. I wonder if it sat with contaminated diesel inside, or was left outside, open, in the rain or something!

For instance, the max fuel screw is perfectly rust free and clean, except for the end inside the pump, which is extremely rusty!

I couldn't get it dissembled on account of a stuck bolt. I didn't have a hex socket that fit and had to use allen wrenches (I had no real trouble doing the same with the last pump.) I'm waiting on a set of hex sockets and then hopefully I can get it apart, and will post pictures.

I am hoping that the governor gear will be salvageable. I see that my old broken gear has some sort of coating. I will at least need to remove surface rust from the gear. This coating will be gone.

Based on what I'm seeing so far, I expect at least some light pitting on the gears. Again, I'll post pictures and ask for advice.

My goal originally was to have at least one good pump I could keep as a spare. I would still like to do so, and maybe if I get a second good pump out of this will sell it (cheaply and with full disclosure!).

But I'm tired of R&Ring pumps, and given that now there will be even another step, since my new pump has a different bracket, I won't be testing these pumps any time soon.

So it's kind of just an exercise, at this point.

--

I've had quite a pump saga, the products of which are three broken pumps (five including my original 1.6d pump, and the core I bought).

When I was waiting for my new pump, I tried to get one of my old pumps working. The one that came with my first motor looked very well-used. I did run it for awhile. During a road trip, I discovered that it would idle low after extended highway driving, which I was told can mean the pump is worn out.

I removed it when it started leaking and ran the pump that came with my second pump. That one came off eventually for resealing. I didn't do all the seals at once and so had it off a few times. The last time was when the spring on the idle control lever came loose and caused the damage that motivated this thread.

At that time, I resealed and tried the old pump again, finding that I couldn't get it to prime -- I never got fuel at the injector lines. At the time, I was living 5000 miles away from where I keep the van, and had to leave it for a year when I went home. I bought a third pump while I was gone and it was here when I got back -- that's the rebuilt pump that lasted just a couple months before leaking at the shaft seal.

(By the way, I've always been very careful with belt tension, but only recently bought a gauge. When I installed my Giles pump, I used the gauge. It proved to my satisfaction that the tension was never too high. In fact, the tension has I think been slightly lower than spec. I was almost certain the shaft bushing damage was not my fault, but it's good to get some verification.)

While I was waiting for the Giles pump, I tried to get my first pump working again. I worried I had done something wrong when I resealed it and so removed the top. I discovered that the governor shaft is snapped (!), so, clearly, I did something wrong. I swapped over the top from the pump with the leaking shaft, and found that it still wouldn't prime.

So, my first pump is probably worn out, has a broken governor, and maybe has stuck vanes (it was stored full of diesel); my second pump has a broken gear, idle control spring, was full of rubber bits and is now taken apart; and my third pump has a leaking shaft seal, and now I don't trust anything the rebuilders did.

I don't feel too confident about any of it, but with some help, it seems like I can probably get one or two working pumps out of this mess.