Author Topic: 11mm 1.6, are they that bad?  (Read 7395 times)

Reply #15November 16, 2017, 10:45:21 pm

ORCoaster

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Re: 11mm 1.6, are they that bad?
« Reply #15 on: November 16, 2017, 10:45:21 pm »
I think they started putting the 1.6 in the 81's toward the second half of the production year.  I have two 81's both built late in the year and they have 1.6's  One is already oversized the other is stock. 

Reply #16November 16, 2017, 11:42:00 pm

Tmarkle

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Re: 11mm 1.6, are they that bad?
« Reply #16 on: November 16, 2017, 11:42:00 pm »
Got TDC figured out. Just had to rock it back and forth while watching it so I could catch it.


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1985 Jetta 1.6 NA, Project
1981 Rabbit 1.5 diesel SOLD
1980 Dasher, also a project
1993 Passat GLX VR6 (daily driver)
1992 Toyota Pickup, 350 V8 swapped
1997 Jetta TDI, engine donor for a diesel powered Toyota!
1986 Toyota Custom Cab

Reply #17November 19, 2017, 09:53:21 pm

Tmarkle

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Re: 11mm 1.6, are they that bad?
« Reply #17 on: November 19, 2017, 09:53:21 pm »
So the last issue I need to sort out (for now) is one injector heat shield is stuck in the head. Any trick to getting these out when they are stuck? I was thinking maybe put a screw through the hole and crank the motor over and let the compression do the work.


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1985 Jetta 1.6 NA, Project
1981 Rabbit 1.5 diesel SOLD
1980 Dasher, also a project
1993 Passat GLX VR6 (daily driver)
1992 Toyota Pickup, 350 V8 swapped
1997 Jetta TDI, engine donor for a diesel powered Toyota!
1986 Toyota Custom Cab

Reply #18November 19, 2017, 11:21:45 pm

ORCoaster

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Re: 11mm 1.6, are they that bad?
« Reply #18 on: November 19, 2017, 11:21:45 pm »
Who had this same problem just a bit ago? 

It was suggested that a good stiff wire be looped in there and soak it down good with penetrating oil and pull up with sharp raps.  I have a pair of needle nose pliers that I use to poke in the hole and wiggle them free.  But they may not be as stuck as yours. 

A screw or fine threaded bolt with one of those self tapping tips on it would allow you to pull, and rock it side to side and get it out.  Just use one that is about 2 - 3 inches long so you have a good handle and leverage. 

From VanBCGuy, Testing the injectors thread/

Once they're out you need to remove the heat shields.  I've personally had quite good luck here and mine have always come out somewhat easily.  The best tool I've used is a strong magnet - since the head is aluminum which isn't magnetic the heat shield is pretty easy to grab. 

For the ones that are a bit more stuck I use an old bicycle spoke - the head of the spoke grabs the inside of the heat shield quite well.  Other people have suggested using a large wood screw or cranking the motor over and having the compression blow it out.  With any luck though they're not particularly stuck.

Reply #19November 19, 2017, 11:25:14 pm

Tmarkle

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Re: 11mm 1.6, are they that bad?
« Reply #19 on: November 19, 2017, 11:25:14 pm »
This one is really stuck... I’ve tried using a pick with no success (except marring the heat shield) and a few raps with a punch to try to loosen it, to no avail. I’m going to try the compression trick and hopefully that does it.


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1985 Jetta 1.6 NA, Project
1981 Rabbit 1.5 diesel SOLD
1980 Dasher, also a project
1993 Passat GLX VR6 (daily driver)
1992 Toyota Pickup, 350 V8 swapped
1997 Jetta TDI, engine donor for a diesel powered Toyota!
1986 Toyota Custom Cab

Reply #20November 20, 2017, 12:27:11 am

ORCoaster

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Re: 11mm 1.6, are they that bad?
« Reply #20 on: November 20, 2017, 12:27:11 am »
Just be sure to put the hood up and a heavy blanket over it to catch the flying piece. 

Reply #21November 21, 2017, 08:34:08 am

RabbitJockey

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Re: 11mm 1.6, are they that bad?
« Reply #21 on: November 21, 2017, 08:34:08 am »
ive gotten them out with an easy-out before, it lets you grab it in the hole and also spins it to free it
01 Jetta TDI 100% stock daily
81 Rabbit:TDI-M ported head, Frank06 cam, PD intake, hybrid T3 turbo, Renault intercooler, Syl20 11mm pump, light weight fw, and yellow California Clutch clutch kit

Reply #22November 22, 2017, 11:45:51 pm

Tmarkle

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11mm 1.6, are they that bad?
« Reply #22 on: November 22, 2017, 11:45:51 pm »
Drove a screw in the heat shield and cranked her over, it shot out like a bullet! Got the car running tonight. It is slow, but smooth under acceleration. If it sits and idles it seems to “load up” and puff a light white haze and idle ever so slightly rougher, but I think this is timing related. I thought I had it timed pretty advanced but I’ll do some fiddling. Thanks everyone for the tips and tricks. P.S. the Vince Waldon “pimp your glowplugs” is the way to go!


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« Last Edit: November 23, 2017, 11:12:42 am by Tmarkle »
1985 Jetta 1.6 NA, Project
1981 Rabbit 1.5 diesel SOLD
1980 Dasher, also a project
1993 Passat GLX VR6 (daily driver)
1992 Toyota Pickup, 350 V8 swapped
1997 Jetta TDI, engine donor for a diesel powered Toyota!
1986 Toyota Custom Cab

Reply #23November 23, 2017, 11:10:14 am

Tmarkle

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Re: 11mm 1.6, are they that bad?
« Reply #23 on: November 23, 2017, 11:10:14 am »
My previous description of the smoke was not very accurate. It seemed like that at first but it is the fact that it’s sucking air somewhere. I did play with the timing a bit more and bled the injectors a few more times and it’s running way better but if it sits for even 30 minutes it slightly loses prime. I’m gunna go through and replace all the rubber fuel lines.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1985 Jetta 1.6 NA, Project
1981 Rabbit 1.5 diesel SOLD
1980 Dasher, also a project
1993 Passat GLX VR6 (daily driver)
1992 Toyota Pickup, 350 V8 swapped
1997 Jetta TDI, engine donor for a diesel powered Toyota!
1986 Toyota Custom Cab

Reply #24November 27, 2017, 05:55:52 pm

fatmobile

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Re: 11mm 1.6, are they that bad?
« Reply #24 on: November 27, 2017, 05:55:52 pm »
With clear lines right?
Tornado red, '91 Golf 4 door,
with a re-ringed, '84 quantum, turbo diesel, MD block

Reply #25November 27, 2017, 06:01:27 pm

Tmarkle

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Re: 11mm 1.6, are they that bad?
« Reply #25 on: November 27, 2017, 06:01:27 pm »
With clear lines right?
Yessir. I’ve got it idling nice and smooth and after running for a while it runs super smooth, and it’s surprisingly quick (for an NA) but when it is first running it wants to sputter under acceleration for the first few minutes of driving. I have the pump timed as far toward the head as it will go and the cold start out. Without the cold start out it runs like crap, warm or cold, so I’m thinking I’ll be completely resetting the timing as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1985 Jetta 1.6 NA, Project
1981 Rabbit 1.5 diesel SOLD
1980 Dasher, also a project
1993 Passat GLX VR6 (daily driver)
1992 Toyota Pickup, 350 V8 swapped
1997 Jetta TDI, engine donor for a diesel powered Toyota!
1986 Toyota Custom Cab

Reply #26November 27, 2017, 10:26:16 pm

ORCoaster

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Re: 11mm 1.6, are they that bad?
« Reply #26 on: November 27, 2017, 10:26:16 pm »
Yes reset the timing!!!  You should not have to run with the cold start out to keep it running.  And if you are at the limit towards the head do you actually know what measure of millimeters you have for timing?  Or do you not have the gauge and pin setup for the back of the pump?

Do you still lose prime or did the hose swap take care of that problem? 

I have a Rabbit that I have removed one of the shims on the advance piston mechanism.  It is a lot quicker than the Caddy I purchased a bit back.  I think I will be modifying that pump in the same way.  Someone may have already snitched out one of the two shims on your pump it sounds like.

Glad the smoking has been cured. 

Reply #27November 27, 2017, 10:37:26 pm

Tmarkle

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Re: 11mm 1.6, are they that bad?
« Reply #27 on: November 27, 2017, 10:37:26 pm »
When I set the timing with my gauge I set it at 0.98, and it didn’t run well there at all. The farther I moved it toward the head the smoother it ran. With the cold start out it runs well after it’s warmed up. It hates to start in the cold. Barely below freezing tonight and it was a battle and a smoke show to get her running. Once it started it ran ok, hesitating just barely under acceleration as stated earlier. The pump was modified by my local shop, and they do great work. They also redid the injectors. Once it runs for a while it’s actually pretty impressive for an NA in my opinion, and a 4 speed no less. I’m not sure if it’s my timing not being right or I’m still losing prime, but I replaced all the lines with clear ones. The little injector jumpers seem to hold some air bubbles in them, maybe they are the culprit. Would a check valve on the line to the pump be beneficial? Hoping I can get this little thing going good so I can enjoy 40 mpg compared to my small block Chevy’s 9 mpg lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1985 Jetta 1.6 NA, Project
1981 Rabbit 1.5 diesel SOLD
1980 Dasher, also a project
1993 Passat GLX VR6 (daily driver)
1992 Toyota Pickup, 350 V8 swapped
1997 Jetta TDI, engine donor for a diesel powered Toyota!
1986 Toyota Custom Cab

Reply #28November 27, 2017, 11:47:06 pm

ORCoaster

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Re: 11mm 1.6, are they that bad?
« Reply #28 on: November 27, 2017, 11:47:06 pm »
0.98 on a modified pump might still be considered retarded for your built pump.  At this point I would be looking to bump the belt a tooth towards advance and then pull the pump back into a more middle position.  You might be looking at running at  1.03 or someplace along that line.  It should fire off better in cold weather than what it sounds like it is doing.  Advance will help that, just be aware that more advance means more clatter under the hood, but it is a diesel right.  That sound is OK for us to hear but others might point to your hood and tell you there is a problem with your engine.  Have them stand next to a Ford or Dodge truck with a similar IP setup.

As for a check valve I wouldn't go that route.  The air comes in from both sides of the pump, the inlet and outlet.  So it isn't something I would recommend.  Tiny bubbles in the jumper hoses between injectors is OK, that is only the extra fuel that didn't get used for power.  Never really a lot there, not like it is flowing like in the return to the tank. That comes from the first stage of the IP and is cooling the IP as it does its route from inlet to outlet.

If you are still losing prime you might have copper o rings that need smoothing.  Inlet and outlets have them and so does the fuel filter.  Start with the IP Out bolt.  Get some really fine, 400 or 600 grit sandpaper, some oil and a piece of glass.  Lay the sandpaper down on the glass, put on a good coat of oil and press the o ring down with your fingertips.  Push it around in a figure 8 pattern an even number of times.  Then look at the flat parts and see if there are lines or it is all smooth across the face.  Once you have that done you should pass a flame across the ring to anneal it.  Just make a quick couple of passes with a propane torch, you don't need to melt it, just turn in blue.  That might help get the fine lines of past tension out of the system.  I use a 1/2 inch sized rachet and a 17 mm socket to tighten them back on. 

Keep working on it.  Winter is coming fast and you don't want to be stranded with a low battery and hard to start combination.  You will only have one try to get it running if you do.  I carry a  Jump and Carry battery pack, mostly for others but there have been times I needed it too. 

Reply #29November 28, 2017, 10:31:28 pm

Tmarkle

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Re: 11mm 1.6, are they that bad?
« Reply #29 on: November 28, 2017, 10:31:28 pm »
I will give those things a look. Thanks for all the advice ORCoaster!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1985 Jetta 1.6 NA, Project
1981 Rabbit 1.5 diesel SOLD
1980 Dasher, also a project
1993 Passat GLX VR6 (daily driver)
1992 Toyota Pickup, 350 V8 swapped
1997 Jetta TDI, engine donor for a diesel powered Toyota!
1986 Toyota Custom Cab

 

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