Author Topic: Rebuilding: 1.6TD JX Turbo Diesel engine  (Read 7482 times)

Reply #15October 17, 2017, 12:41:53 pm

libbydiesel

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Re: Rebuilding: 1.6TD JX Turbo Diesel engine
« Reply #15 on: October 17, 2017, 12:41:53 pm »
The new piston to bore clearance is 0.001" (0.0005 on either side).  The wear limit is 0.003 (0.0015 on either side).  The difference is 0.001 per side.  For a hands-on display of what a 0.001" distance is, close your digital calipers, zero them, set to inches and open them 0.001.  If any part of the bore is worn/deformed/eroded/rusted to that distance, boring and new pistons are required to bring it back to spec.

Replacing a single cylinder is not really a good idea.  The oversize pistons have the wrist pin bore closer to the crown in order to allow the head gasket surface to be machined at rebuild time.  That one piston would be low.  It would also have a different displacement and fresher rings.  The result would be an intrinsic imbalance in the engine. 

Digital calipers are decent for comparative measurements, but will not be accurate enough to get a good measurement on cylinders or crank journals.  Micrometers would be needed for that along with telescoping gauges for the cylinders. 

Plastigage can be used to check rod big end and main clearances.  Unless dirty oil was used for an extended period of time, usually the mains and rod big end bearings are within spec for new even on very high mileage engines. 

Reply #16October 17, 2017, 03:34:12 pm

RunninWild

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Re: Rebuilding: 1.6TD JX Turbo Diesel engine
« Reply #16 on: October 17, 2017, 03:34:12 pm »
Just save yourself the headache and have the machine shop measure everything. Getting precise measurements is a skill and it requires expensive tools. It would be foolish to invest all that money and have some of your measurements being off.

Cleaning up the cylinders isnt really the issue. Measuring them for spec and out of round is. Sure you might be able to get the rust out but its completely pointless and a waste of time if they need to be bored anyways. Just bring it to the shop and tell them to clean and inspect everything.

Regards to cleaning and painting. Hot tanking should get it clean enough that you dont need to sand blast. I used a por15 engine paint kit on my block with good results. Just make sure everything is as clean and grease free before painting and you should have good results.

Reply #17October 18, 2017, 06:43:08 am

epowell

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Re: Rebuilding: 1.6TD JX Turbo Diesel engine
« Reply #17 on: October 18, 2017, 06:43:08 am »
Just save yourself the headache and have the machine shop measure everything. Getting precise measurements is a skill and it requires expensive tools. It would be foolish to invest all that money and have some of your measurements being off.

I very much appreciate this advice --- however thinking deeply about this I have decided that my first step will be to buy a set of my own measuring tools and start doing the measurements myself. I checked tool prices and they seem within my budget. I am a professional luthier http://edwardpowell.com/INSTRUMENTS.php and very much used to taking extremely fine measurements and in fact I can use these fine measuring tools when building lutes and guitars. I am often frustrated with the limitations of my calipers.

Another thing I have learned is that getting work done by any shop outside of my own  is *suspect*. I want to be able to go to the machine shop with my parts and WITH MY MEASURING TOOLS to make sure the guy knows for sure that I have to means myself of checking the minute accuracy of his work (!)...   I am sure this can help to avoid second rate work. [or at least it will give me some peace of mind from the illusion of that].

Micrometers seem reasonably priced --- there seems some degree of variation in common sizes and measuring widths. . .   what is the measuring range that I need to deal with everything on the JX block?   https://www.google.cz/search?q=mikrometr&client=gmail&rls=aso&authuser=0&dcr=0&tbm=shop&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwib7ry2_fnWAhVhCZoKHc1wD2gQ_AUIDCgD&biw=1242&bih=535&dpr=1.1

I could not find any telescoping guages yet, but I will find them. . . .

THANKS
Ed

Reply #18October 18, 2017, 11:01:23 am

air-cooled or diesel

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Re: Rebuilding: 1.6TD JX Turbo Diesel engine
« Reply #18 on: October 18, 2017, 11:01:23 am »
so this is a 'JX' block, so your going to keep it a mechanical head? it looks like the stock usage of the block was NA, non-turbo. so its your optional turbo set up? i suppose.

Reply #19October 18, 2017, 11:17:16 am

epowell

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Re: Rebuilding: 1.6TD JX Turbo Diesel engine
« Reply #19 on: October 18, 2017, 11:17:16 am »
so this is a 'JX' block, so your going to keep it a mechanical head? it looks like the stock usage of the block was NA, non-turbo. so its your optional turbo set up? i suppose.

Yes I have a brand new KS head (mechanical) for this block. I think the only difference between this JX (TD) block and a CS (NA) block is that the JX has extra piston cooling jets to squirt oil in there.

A JX should use a K14 turbo, but they cost $800 (BorgWarner). K24s (BorgWarner) are $400 so I went with a new one of those to save money. Problem is the K24 is much larger than the K14 therefore doesn't build up any boost until revs get pretty high. Also the thing is really heavy.

Reply #20October 18, 2017, 01:21:26 pm

libbydiesel

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Re: Rebuilding: 1.6TD JX Turbo Diesel engine
« Reply #20 on: October 18, 2017, 01:21:26 pm »
JX as always turbo-charged and came only fitted to the Vanagon in other markets. 

Reply #21October 18, 2017, 02:29:42 pm

air-cooled or diesel

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Re: Rebuilding: 1.6TD JX Turbo Diesel engine
« Reply #21 on: October 18, 2017, 02:29:42 pm »
huh, i had looked, seems autohausaz has JX for 84 golf/jetta was mechanical head, NA. just a rough idea, perhaps inaccurate. was north america, over on the other side of the 'pond' have no idea. like i said i had at one time an 84 however this was a hydro head, NA.

Reply #22October 18, 2017, 04:00:22 pm

epowell

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Re: Rebuilding: 1.6TD JX Turbo Diesel engine
« Reply #22 on: October 18, 2017, 04:00:22 pm »
huh, i had looked, seems autohausaz has JX for 84 golf/jetta was mechanical head, NA. just a rough idea, perhaps inaccurate. was north america, over on the other side of the 'pond' have no idea. like i said i had at one time an 84 however this was a hydro head, NA.

Nope. TD, and mechanical head. There are tons of JX's in Europe. Very common. Also, in Europe Vanagons are called T3s...  or T25s in the UK.

 

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