CV joints often cause noise when turning but shakes are more likely to be wheel bearing related.
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If it's wheel bearings the tire should move when i push/pull on it correct?
If it's the cv joint it will be loose when i twist or push it in and out while it's in neutral? or just look for a different while it's in gear compared to Neutral.
If it is a bearing the wheel will move up and down or side to side. If you grab the wheel with hands at 3 and 9 o'clock and sort of rock it towards you on one side and away from you on the other it should wiggle. You should be solid to the axle. You need to do this with the wheel on to get the leverage you need. Don't expect to wiggle a rotor to test the bearing.
I push and pull on the axles in both neutral and a gear just so I can eliminate any loose connection through the transmission. If it is a CV joint they will have a considerable amount of play in them.
And my money is on passenger side bearing. They are known to go first. Not hard to fix either. You just have to be careful getting the new ones pressed or tapped down and in using the old bearing as a guide along with a big socket. Which you will need to get the axle off anyway.
Not hard to fix either.
its not the fix problem, not too hard^, yet its that you ll need an alignment rack. if so perhaps do both sides? prev-maint. although the pass side does tend to go first in most cases.
although for me, as you seem to have a problem that will take you to an alignment rack, i rebuild the Whole front and rear ends. for one if you do it right, use good parts, and use a good alignment shop/rack, the new suspension you (possibly) put in can last you ,,oh, 6years or so, perhaps 2 sets of tires. can be a little burdensome on the wallet in the immediate sense, but if you do it right you should save a good bit, as most suspension work means your next stop will be another alignment rack. i, seeing your old model, and just about any car on this forum, esp if your a new owner and are going to work it, can by now use a full suspension 'rebuild'. so i go all 4 corners, (the rears arent much.), including probably new a-arms, and the a-arm bushings. just good practice, and you should get good results. i happen to have a real good shop that aligns all 4 corners, not easy to do to get the rears Right. and a little pricey. will pm.
in this case be4 you hit the align rack 4 new rubbers are best, esp considering the $ and work you-d put in--.