VW 1.6 NA to Turbo swap! Questions and Progress.

[Tmarkle]

I'm gunna check it out. Hopefully that's the case not the head gasket.

[fatmobile]

Check the flow from the small line coming from the radiator going to the resevoir.

[Tmarkle]

Check the flow from the small line coming from the radiator going to the resevoir.

What should it look like? A steady stream or what?


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[ORCoaster]

The return to the reservoir is a slight but steady trickle on my 1.6 but as soon as I race the throttle it sprays in there as good solid stream enough to spray out if I am not careful.  It rises up and catches the edge of the cap area and then flies out the top.  But I would venture an RPM around 2500 at that point.

Just my experience, all water pumps are different but if working half as good as they should I venture all would produce a solid stream into the reservoir.

[Tmarkle]

The return to the reservoir is a slight but steady trickle on my 1.6 but as soon as I race the throttle it sprays in there as good solid stream enough to spray out if I am not careful.  It rises up and catches the edge of the cap area and then flies out the top.  But I would venture an RPM around 2500 at that point.

Just my experience, all water pumps are different but if working half as good as they should I venture all would produce a solid stream into the reservoir.

Ok. Well the only thing that appears to be SUSPECT of being the head gasket is the leak and steam below the water flange. But I'm going to replace the water outlet and the o ring and pray that that fixes it. I love driving it so this leak situation is driving me nuts! Lol.


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[Tmarkle]

Well... I have confirmed that the head gasket it probably shot. I replaced the water outlet and the o ring. On my test drive after about 5 minutes the water temp for high enough to blink the light at me. I immediately shut it down. The coolant tank had a ton of pressure and it was leaking from the same spot on the head gasket as before. After it cooled down I drove it home and the temp was on the rise quickly by the time I parked it. Hopefully the head isn't severely warped. A local shop quoted $75 to deck the head and $150 for a full valve job. Seem reasonable? Should I do a metal head gasket? Can the head be removed with manifolds and the turbo still attached and without removing the IP?


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[ORCoaster]

The head can be removed with the manifolds on it if you want to bust yourself getting it out to there.  I leave the exhaust connected at the pipe but remove it from the head.  Likewise I remove the intake.  The studs are somewhat tricky to get to from the back but it can be done.  The IP should go as well as you have to have the lines to the head off the injectors anyway.  Clear yourself some room to work and you won't regret it.

[Tmarkle]

The head can be removed with the manifolds on it if you want to bust yourself getting it out to there.  I leave the exhaust connected at the pipe but remove it from the head.  Likewise I remove the intake.  The studs are somewhat tricky to get to from the back but it can be done.  The IP should go as well as you have to have the lines to the head off the injectors anyway.  Clear yourself some room to work and you won't regret it.

Thanks. If I have the head decked, should I use a thicker gasket? It's a one hole that's on it now.


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[ORCoaster]

Changing the distance from the valves to the top of the piston is going to result from shaving down the head.  I always measure the protrusion of the pistons above the top of the engine block to decide on what gasket thickness to purchase.  Bentley guide has ranges for individual gaskets.  Once I know that height of the pistons over the block I still check the clearances on the valves as well.  There isn't a lot of wiggle room with the top of the valve pushing down into the cylinder and the piston sticking up above the block.  That is why we all recommend turning it over by hand a couple of full rotations on the crank when doing a timing adjustment. 

I have just been off a tooth on the IP and have had that wrench on the front of the crank go clunk and knew instantly to back it up and do it again.  Something didn't align correctly.

[Tmarkle]

Changing the distance from the valves to the top of the piston is going to result from shaving down the head.  I always measure the protrusion of the pistons above the top of the engine block to decide on what gasket thickness to purchase.  Bentley guide has ranges for individual gaskets.  Once I know that height of the pistons over the block I still check the clearances on the valves as well.  There isn't a lot of wiggle room with the top of the valve pushing down into the cylinder and the piston sticking up above the block.  That is why we all recommend turning it over by hand a couple of full rotations on the crank when doing a timing adjustment. 

I have just been off a tooth on the IP and have had that wrench on the front of the crank go clunk and knew instantly to back it up and do it again.  Something didn't align correctly.

Yep. When I did the the front seal in the IP I had to remove obviously the timing belt and IP pulley with everything TDC. Afterward I rotated the engine by the crank pulley and obviously there was some resistance due to compression, but I have a feel for it turning over freely. Correct me if I'm wrong but it's more than likely that the head will need decked right? 212xxx miles on the ole girl.


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[libbydiesel]

Has the shop dealt with VW IDI diesel heads?  If not, then do not have them cut the head surface.  If it is not done right, the prechamber inserts will be loosened and can cause total engine failure later on.  Factory says that machining the diesel heads is strictly verboten, but it has been done successfully by some. 

I have actually hand lapped a couple of them successfully and feel it is better on the prechamber inserts.  Skill is required and the usual disclaimers apply. 

[Tmarkle]

Has the shop dealt with VW IDI diesel heads?  If not, then do not have them cut the head surface.  If it is not done right, the prechamber inserts will be loosened and can cause total engine failure later on.  Factory says that machining the diesel heads is strictly verboten, but it has been done successfully by some. 

I have actually hand lapped a couple of them successfully and feel it is better on the prechamber inserts.  Skill is required and the usual disclaimers apply.

Well when it rains it pours.... I was checking it out today in the nicer weather and found the timing belt was pretty loose. Tightened it up to where I could bend it 45 degrees. Started, ran for about 15 seconds, and the belt snapped. It shut down immediately. I'm thinking the car is a total loss at this point, as I don't have the money to replace the head if it is screwed up from this.


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[TylerDurden]

I'm thinking the car is a total loss at this point, as I don't have the money to replace the head if it is screwed up from this.

Bummer!

But not a total loss... you were gonna pull the head anyway. You could probably park it and get the coin together for another head, then get back in  business. You've come this far...

[Tmarkle]

I'm thinking the car is a total loss at this point, as I don't have the money to replace the head if it is screwed up from this.

Bummer!

But not a total loss... you were gonna pull the head anyway. You could probably park it and get the coin together for another head, then get back in  business. You've come this far...

Yeah I'll see. Maybe if I can find a used TD motor I'll toss it in, but here in Montana vw diesels are tough to come by.


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[libbydiesel]

Were you driving the car when the belt snapped or was it idling?  If idling, you probably have to replace a couple valves but probably no other damage. 

How old was the belt?