Injection pump timing

[jhonyquest97]

I've read a bunch in the Bentley on it and understand getting the dial is the best place to start. However I have a motor at tdc now and I'm unsure how the new injection pump should go in to correspond.

Do I just bolt it up, throw the belt on and use the dial?  Is there a direction the "key" should be facing for tdc on the pump shaft? I have the mark lined up with the split in the support bracket. Sorry for the mess of questions. I'm still learning while I do this rebuild so. Thanks for any help.

[Dakotakid]

10:00 (am or pm)

[jhonyquest97]

Are you refering to the direction of the key?

[jhonyquest97]

im reading another forum and it looks like the keyhole should be facing the rear of the motor with the sprocket lock in position.   

[jhonyquest97]

can anyone confirm this?

[libbydiesel]

When the crank is at TDC for #1 (you must check the cam to confirm it is on #1 and not on #4) then with the lock pin in place in the pump sprocket/bracket, then the belt will be on the correct tooth when installed.  You still need to dial in the fine timing using a dial indicator or pulse adapter and strobe.     

[jhonyquest97]

Great! Thank you.

I had the head off and positioned first piston to tdc then the cam lobes both facing up and locked. Should be good to go.

[epowell]

When the crank is at TDC for #1 (you must check the cam to confirm it is on #1 and not on #4) then with the lock pin in place in the pump sprocket/bracket, then the belt will be on the correct tooth when installed.  You still need to dial in the fine timing using a dial indicator or pulse adapter and strobe.   

What kind of engine is this? I'm curious - it sounds like the same procedure as for my JX. Do all VW Diesel engine follow this same protocol?
Thanks

[vanbcguy]

Pretty much yes, all the rotary pump engines have essentially the same timing procedure. Once you get in to the electronically controlled engines the dial gauge stops being a requirement, but otherwise it's the same basic process from the 1970's 1.5L through the ALH in the early 2000s.

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[GypsyR]

The key/keyway do point to around 10 o'clock. That doesn't matter so much though. It does matter when you get the pulley on and start lining up timing marks. Lining up the shaft keyway at 10 o'clock does sort of give you a head start in having the pulley close to where it needs to be I guess. If the whole thing weren't designed by Germans I can't help but think the keyway might be lined up with the pulley's timing mark.

[ORCoaster]

Key way points at 10, that gives timing mark on the pulley a noon position and that allows the pin to go in at about the 4 or 5 o'clock position with all points locked in place.  Just need to verify TDC on Flywheel and lobes on #1 cylinder are in the up position.   How simple right? 

[vanbcguy]

The key/keyway do point to around 10 o'clock. That doesn't matter so much though. It does matter when you get the pulley on and start lining up timing marks. Lining up the shaft keyway at 10 o'clock does sort of give you a head start in having the pulley close to where it needs to be I guess. If the whole thing weren't designed by Germans I can't help but think the keyway might be lined up with the pulley's timing mark.

For what it's worth the keyway lines up with the output passage in the pump head. It points to which port fuel will be expelled from at the other end of the pump. The 10 o'clock position puts it just before the discharge port leading to cylinder #1.

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[fatmobile]

But the keyway isn't what you should be looking for.
 There's a notch on the back of the sprocket that lines up with the line on the pump and bracket.

I don't use the locking pin or dial gauge. They just get you in the area they don't help tune it right.