wont work right/less fuel after pump assembly

[carrizog60]

hi

as in you by looking at recent topics i had to reseal my pump.
on the head i was going for the removal of the oring without taking head completely off but at the last moment it poped out...
so,assembly was done but now i can only have it to run by applying half throttle.
what can be causing this?if anything had fall off the pump will destroy itself after turning so nothing was out.
for what i remember i ligned up the camplate and shaft...
in and out bolts are in the right place(will check again,large hole is on in side right?)

hate when thing wont go right the first time...

[carrizog60]

ok, disassembled the head and all was lined up,in and out bolts were in right position.
removed the pump top and cant see anything different...

pump rotates by hand,only thing i wonder is the space between camplate and plunger,but if it wasnt correctly seated the small round hole on the plunger will not sit on the camplate and it wont rotate right?(edit:its seated properly,used a screwdriver to move the plunger and it seats fine)
engine was timed correct,and pump had 0.98mm advance.
it looks like when the accelerator shaft is in the wrong position and the pump only accelerate at half lever travel...

i didnt unscrew the fuel lines at the injectors to bleed,just turn the engine until it started and kept accelerating until i could see no bubbles,engine ran 2/3 minutes this way so i thing it was primed.
is this right?

i am puzzled...

any help is welcome

[libbydiesel]

Did you reposition the accelerator lever on the shaft the same as it was before? 

[carrizog60]

i didnt mess with the lever.
i just replace the o´rings on the advance mechanism and on the pump head.

[libbydiesel]

removed the pump top and cant see anything different...

The part I would call the 'pump top' is the part with the accelerator shaft running through it.  You removed that without removing the accelerator lever from the shaft?

Did you do anything to the max fuel screw?

[carrizog60]

on the first time i just removed the pump,changed the o´rings for the timing advance caps and the big one in the head.
had the above issues so i removed the pump again,removed the pump head again to see if plunger was lined up.
as i didnt see anything odd i removed the pump top to check the gas lever but the issue was there before i opened the pump top(the part with the lever)

my back hurts,this thing is making my mood go down the drain as everytime i put my hands it fights back...
now had to remove the pump top again to replace the o´ring on the shaft,it started leaking.and the damn thing is equal or worse...

[carrizog60]

well,changing the position on the lever i can get it to idle,but even with the fuel screw all in i can get it to shutoff just by moving the lever back.

and i cant figure out why it changed that when i didnt mess with the throttle linkage the first time...

[air-cooled or diesel]

2cents here,
so othewise than not getting full, or a lot of throttle response, the motor is running well, fine, otherwise. so perhaps keep her running, whether @idle or every couple of minutes give har some throttle, we ve seen before where changing pumps, or otherwise removing pumps, and etc(work,&etc, or otherwise), sometimes it needs a few minutes give or take to prime, oh it ll run, but it has to prime. so keep her running and see, (keep-fingers-crossed).

[carrizog60]

it worked by a couple of minutes at a time.checked the starting and it starts right away if linkage is on the right location(i kept it running without linkage so i can move the shaft easy.
if i need to remove the pump again the 11mm head will go in,maybe that is was the engine is asking  lol

[libbydiesel]

Are you SURE the little shim is correctly positioned at the base of the plunger/camplate?  If that popped out, it could account for the change.

[carrizog60]

if the shim was out wont it lock the pump?

something is definitely wrong.
the engine seems a little louder than before,its more susceptible to load changes(when glow plugs or lights are on it will low the idle more) and i cant screw the fuel screw more and the smoke levels are less than before,so fuel is not being pumped.
like if the collar wast opening the fuel hole enough.
i cant see what can change that by removing the pump head...

will remove the pump again...
i have a 11mm head assembly,if i change the head i just use the shim of the donor head or use the one i have now?

[libbydiesel]

If the shim falls out of place but stays under the plunger foot, then it will cause the plunger to snap.  With just a little more space it could feasibly fall out of place completely.  If that were the case, I believe it would be much like the significant reduction in power. 

There is a spec for the plunger protrusion into the fuel distributor head.  I don't recall it offhand but I believe Tintin posted it in one of the threads on this forum.  I would use the shim that allows the plunger movement to fall within spec.  You will be mixing parts that were not previously fit together so it is not possible to know which shim to use without measuring. 

[carrizog60]

thanks
today is impossible to mess with the pump but tomorrow will take it apart again...

if i use the shim that came with the 11mm head assembly all will remain like factory so i will be ok right?
if i dont see anything strange i will move on and swap the pump head.

[libbydiesel]

If I'm not mistaken, the pump you are using did not come with that 11mm plunger/head assembly so the appropriate shim dimension is a guess.

[carrizog60]

the shim came from the donor pump,a land rover unit if i remember correctly