AAZ Vanagon losing oil

[libbydiesel]

If you have had dirty air running into your engine it could have done some erosion to the turbo fins, added a bit of wear to valves, and more significantly worn the rings, cylinders and pistons.  It's unlikely, IMO, to have damaged anything else although depending on how much and how long, higher abrasive content in the could have accelerated wear on the bearings/journals/lifters, etc...

If doing a complete rebuild, you might consider going to an mTDI.  The upsides would be better fuel economy and lower heat load on the cooling system/oil.  The increased lower rpm torque is a double-edged sword.  It is more fun, but harder on the trans. 

In order to go mTDI, you could keep your current AAZ block and all accessories except you would need to swap the pistons, head, injectors, and injection pump.  I'd also recommend swapping to the AHU pump bracket and timing covers to match, but it isn't strictly necessary.  The TDI pump bracket accommodates an additional timing belt roller for a bit more wrap on both pump and cam.  You could keep your crank, rods, and all accessories.  Go with a Land Rover 300TDI injection pump.  The AAZ is a fine engine also so there's nothing wrong with rebuilding it as is.     

[RockOcean]

The turbo is still producing good boost so I hope that the fins are ok. But after removing the turbo it looks as tho the seals may be leaking. It is interesting to see oil trying to come out from in between the manifold and the turbo. Would this mean that oil is leaking from the head?

TurboLeak by RockOcean.com, on Flickr

ManifoldLeak by RockOcean.com, on Flickr

[RockOcean]

There is no oil in the exhaust manifold, or inside the exhaust outlets on the head.

[RockOcean]

Looks like cylinder #2 is the only cylinder that is wet, and cylinder #4 has a lot more soot then the others. Any suggestions on why this is? Also if I am not mistaken the cracks between the valves are normal?

WetCyl by RockOcean.com, on Flickr

BottomHead2n3 by RockOcean.com, on Flickr

BottomHead4 by RockOcean.com, on Flickr

[libbydiesel]

I don't know why #2 would be the only one that was wet.  Extra soot on #4 might well have to do with the lower compression.  What oil return line are you using?  Stock AAZ?

[RockOcean]

I have a steel braided oil line that goes straight up and down into the oil pan.

[libbydiesel]

I assume you have decent ID on the oil return fittings - any smaller ID than the stock line can back up the oil and cause it to come out the turbo seals.  That's probably not the case here, though.  From everything you've said, I think there's a good chance that excessive blowby was creating crankcase pressure that was pushing oil up the oil return line. 

Is there any chance your air filter was clogged?

[RockOcean]

Yes the oil return fittings look the same if not larger then stock. Do you think there is a chance that once the blow by is taken care of it will not leak from the turbo anymore?

[RockOcean]

Now that I think of it when its cold sometimes my oil pressure will sit around 70 psi for maybe a minute and then drop to 20. When I moved the van to work on it I started it cold, waited for the oil pressure to drop to 20 then I drove it up on the ramps and shut it off. So maybe the oil that I am seeing only came out when the oil pressure was around 70 and since I shut it off right away it stayed there.. When usually it would burn off?

[libbydiesel]

Did you see my question about the air filter?  Any chance it was clogged?  That can cause the pressure control valve to shut (hockey puck on valve cover).  With that closed, the crankcase pressure will build.

It is possible with blowby fixed the turbo will not leak.  It is not likely that it has anything to do with startup oil pressure. 

[RockOcean]

I doubt the filter was ever clogged,  I cleaned it twice this past summer. And I put a brand new one on this fall. Both K&N cone filters.. The old one had a small pin hole on it due to rubbing, that is why so much dust got in the intake I believe. What causes high start up pressure?

[RockOcean]

I dropped the block and head off at the machine shop today. They quoted me to fully rebuild the head, and to rebore the block to 80.5mm would be $850 for labor. And an additional $600 to rebuild it for me and give it back as a long block. I will be supplying all the parts. Is this reasonable?

They are checking everything first so hopefully all that won't need to be done. 

[libbydiesel]

I would think 2-300 to rebuild the head.  Magnaflux, boring, and decking the block maybe 250.  Rods would be another 100ish.  Typically there isn't anything you need to do anything else to the crank other than maybe polishing the journals.  850 seems steep to me for that, especially if you are providing the valves.  600 to build it up seems quite reasonable for the labor, provided they are doing everything correctly, e.g. replacing intermediate shaft seals, replacing the oil pump bushing, replacing the galley plugs and freeze plugs, etc...

[RockOcean]

Having trouble sourcing 80.5mm piston rings does anyone know if these are even available from Grant, Goetze, or Mahle?

[Gizmoman]

Not much I can add, just want to wish you good luck as you proceed. Looks like you have some very good assistance for sure. As for cracks between valves, it's common (based on limited knowledge) and shouldn't hurt a thing. Yours actually appear quite small from others I have seen.
I must say, you really do some serious mileage every year and all in all, your rebuild has served you well.

Jim