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#30
by
theman53
on 05 May, 2016 05:23
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The guys that have pinned them has been a long time ago. but the verdict is that 4 pins works. Less than that it really isn't doing much. 1 guy had the sprocket wobble eventually until he went with 4 pins. It might work with less but if you are there why not do it. I went with the TDI D sprocket and it works fine for me.
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#31
by
RunninWild
on 05 May, 2016 07:55
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Thats for the input guys. 4 pins it is. Hopefully I'll have it done today and that oil leak sorted and be able to test drive!
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#32
by
RunninWild
on 05 May, 2016 16:06
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So havnt fixed the crank yet just wanted to work out the other bugs before I rip it apart.
I'm having the same issue I had with my last engine in regards to it overheating.
It's like it doesn't have any coolant flow this just doesn't make any sense. The hose routing is about as good as I can get it. My routing is the exact same as this
http://acmeadapters.com/images/img_support_3a.jpgBasically my upper rad hose is burning hot. If I have the rad fans off basically everything gets hot except for the hose coming out of the back of the head and the one from the heater core. If I turn the fans on the rad and lower hose get and rad get cold but the upper hose stays burning hot. My gauge was reading about 212f when I turned it off.
This makes no sense! I don't see how it could be an air bubble, and last time I played with this I ran a garden hose through every piece of the system and had no clogs. So same problem 2 engines. Its obviously something to do with my routing but I just don't get it.
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#33
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 05 May, 2016 17:06
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that #4 line/connection, you have coolant flow thru this area? return from heater core, and expansion tank
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#34
by
RunninWild
on 05 May, 2016 19:13
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I havnt pulled that line but pulling number 5 makes coolant come out. Its also hot between the oil cooler and the water pump.
Im going to try running without a thermostat tomorrow. I cracked the housing on mine and the parts store is closed.
Even if the thermostat is stuck shut (which I saw open in boiling water a few months ago) shouldn't I still be getting heat in the heater core?
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#35
by
theman53
on 06 May, 2016 04:10
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It will over heat in 5 minutes of driving. The t stat works differently than you realize. If you pull it, it will have flow in every direction, it doesn't just "turn on" the radiator as soon as you pull it. Look at the t stat and all the hoses it should make sense to you.
I think I told you this months ago or maybe it was the last time a samurai conversion guy was having this issue. Jimfoo had a land rover with the same issue. He had to put a secondary t stat in line in one of his hoses. Search his name and posts you will find it eventually.
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#36
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 06 May, 2016 06:48
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Basically my upper rad hose is burning hot. If I have the rad fans off basically everything gets hot except for the hose coming out of the back of the head and the one from the heater core.
hose coming out of side/back of head to heater core should be hot, this seems where to start. do you have heat when you turn heater on?(inside). do you have an expansion/reservoir tank? an over-flow line to tank, is reservoir tank set up properly, and you have flow out of tank? low point of reservoir needs to be at about the top of cyl head.
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#37
by
RunninWild
on 06 May, 2016 08:11
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Yes everything is hooked up the way it should be. My resevior is at the top of the system and the overflow line from the rad to the res is hooked up.
When I disconnected the lines to my heater control valve blowing in the one going into the heater core caused coolant to came out of the back of the head, which to me means there is no resistance in that part of the system. There is no heat in the truck. I agree this is what I need to figure out and is most likely the cause of my issues. It makes sense that if this isn't heating up then the thermostat isn't getting fed hot water and is staying closed. I just don't understand why that part of the system isn't getting fed any hot coolant. I'll try bypassing my heater control valve again. The pump is spinning and the blades were firmly attached to the pulley before I installed the pump so I don't see how it can not be pumping any coolant...
I'll see if I can find that post about a secondary inline thermostat. This just doesn't make sense to me because this routing seems to work for everyone else with this swap... It just seems impossible for it to be happening...
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#38
by
RabbitJockey
on 06 May, 2016 09:43
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problem with your radiator?
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#39
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 06 May, 2016 11:09
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one thing to consider, the pump, ive seen the pulley come apart, in the inside. and seems to me it was similar situation. the separated pulley will spin,,somewhat. this can be because of a plastic pulley/impeller. or defective,
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#40
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 06 May, 2016 11:49
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you may, thru thermo housing see if this is the case, light , screwdriver, etc. try to turn impeller while you know pulley wont turn,
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#41
by
RunninWild
on 06 May, 2016 13:24
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The impeller was firmly attached and spun with the pulley.
I just installed a new water pump (pressed metal impeller type), new thermostat (drilled 1\8" for bleeding), thermostat housing, fixed the oil leak and now I'm warming it up. Fingers crossed.
Rad is practically new with no clogs
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#42
by
RunninWild
on 06 May, 2016 13:40
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Same issue. Really don't know what to do at this point...
I'll talk to Jeff at acme and see what he thinks. But is last suggestion was to try it without the thermostat and that no matter what I should be getting heat in the truck.
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#43
by
RunninWild
on 06 May, 2016 14:16
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I fixed it! Well I have heat in the truck at least. Now I have to rma my new alternator for the 2nd time as it's not making any power then I'm good for a test drive. I moved the tee for my resevior to the highest point in my system directly in front of the return from the heater core. Filled the system then loosened the inlet hose to the heater core with the engine on. A few bubbles came out then a steady stream of hot coolant. So turns out it was an air bubble this entire time! I'm so happy/angry lol gonna run it on straight water for now and once I'm happy my cooling issues are over I'll put coolant back in. I've spilled way too much coolant these past few days!
So the old sprocket looks to be fine and the keyway looks practically mint and after installing the new sprocket/bolt it's not wobbling anymore. I'm kinda puzzled on that one but it is what it is...
All that's left is to swap the alternator and install my new fuel filter and it'll be hopefully good to go.
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#44
by
RunninWild
on 07 May, 2016 11:52
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Ok so my alternator isn't bad, I just bought a used one and I'm having the same problem.
With the engine on I'm getting like 12.4v at my battery. If I disconnect the positive lead I measure 14.4v coming from the alternator (new used one). As soon as I hook it back up it drops down to 12.4v again. Anyone know what I'm doing wrong?
I have a gm 2 wire alternator. The ignighter I have looped back onto the 12v post and the 2nd wire I have hooked into my dash light.
