Engine that's been sitting

[ORCoaster]

RabbitJockey  Will be replying to that new owner next week then.

[RabbitJockey]

Haha I hope not, I had him turn it over by hand and stuff before exchanging money so I think I'm safe, I also through in some other little things for the asking price

[RunninWild]

Well I've got it all stripped and cleaned.


I'm thinking I'm going to take your advice and just pull the head. I was planning on doing it in the future to put on my new head but might as well just do it now. I don't think I'm going to pull the pistons and I don't have any measuring tools but st least I'll get to inspect the cylinders for irregular wear.

Is it possible to measure piston protrusion with a standard magnet stand for the dial gauge of do you need a magnetic deck bridge?

[ORCoaster]

If you can't figure a way to stabilize the gauge you can always use a set of feeler gauges and a straight edge.  Just be sure your pistons are clean on top. 

[RunninWild]

Well I put off pulling the head. I got the Engine in today. Just need to swap the harmonic balancer (one of the hex bolts stripped coming out 😈), fill the coolant, swap in the exhaust/intake and turbo, set the timing and prime the pump. Hopefully have it running tomorrow. This is taking a lot longer then expected. Figured I would get it done in a day, tomorrow is day number 3, not including the day I spent getting the engine ready to pull and cleaning the new one.

[ORCoaster]

Ahh the rule to use-   If you think it will take one day then multiply by 4.  Same goes for hours estimate.   Oh this is a one hour job.    NOT...   4 hrs later.     Sometimes it just takes that much time to do it right.

[RunninWild]

Yeah I wasn't as efficient as I could have been but wanted to have everything as clean as possible. Definitely going to have to pull my tranny and tcase in the future, they are caked in oil and grime. I really don't think my clutch is going to last very long so that'll give me a chance to get that sorted. Axles will be cleaned when I put in my lift in the next few weeks. After 2 years my samurai is getting very close to what I always wanted for it 😊

[RunninWild]

Well the good news is It fired right up after I primed the fuel system. The bad news is I have a massive oil leak, I don't think my oil cooler is seated properly, and the real kick in the nuts is I have crank wobble 😢.

For a shop to fix the sprocket does the crank shaft need to be removed from the engine? If not how much room would a shop need to do the repair? I'm pretty sure if the Engine mounts were undone, then lift the engine a few inches and my bumper was taken off there would be a straight shot at the crank. Is this good enough or am I going to have to pull this *** again 😭

Its just one thing after the other with this truck. At this rate I'm never going to be able to drive it.

If you guys scoll up and see the pic I posted you can see the access to the crank. Would appreciate anyone's opinion on this.

[vanbcguy]

There are a few people who have made jigs to machine the crank nose in the car. Most machine shops probably won't do that for you though.... You can pull the crank without pulling the engine though you do of course have to remove the timing belt and transmission.

Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk

[RunninWild]

I've been doing some research. I don't think mine is THAT bad as it's only wobbling a little. I think I'm going to get a new sprocket,  have someone drill some holes in it, then use that is a jig to drill the crank and just dowel it. I'm only using v belts so I'm thinking dowels will be sufficient..

There's still a chance the harmonic balancer I installed is just sitting crooked (hopefully) but not very likely. I'm going to have a better look at it tomorrow and figure out the best plan for this.

[RunninWild]

Well I just called 1 machine shop and 2 "vw specialists".

 The machine shop has never done the repair with the crank still in the engine. He said they have never dowelled it either. Which is odd because i talked to one of their machinists about a year ago who said he has done both repairs and never had an issue with either.

The first vw specialist said to strip it all and inspect the keyway. He suggested if it's not too badly damaged to just clean it up a bit with a file and just install a new sprocket and bolt and keep an eye on it.

The 2nd "specialist" is convinced its my harmonic balancer and the crank Is fine. According to him the keyway will never get damaged and that if it's wobbling the crank Is bent. When I tried to explain to him the issue of the keyway wearing out he said he's never seen it happen in a professional environment and the only way that could get damaged is from amatures mangling it and installing it improperly.

Think my plan is to inspect it, then dowel it if necessary.

Ugh according to the dealer there are no sprockets available in north America... Anyone know where to source one?

[bridgetroll13]

Pete Rothenbach lists this one for the stock keyed crank.

http://www.hansautoparts.com/028105263ECrankshaftGear.aspx

Some of his stuff has had quality issues in the past but if your going to pin it in place your probably OK with it.

I doweled my crank myself. If you drill the sprocket in a drill press you can use it as the drilling template for the crank. If you have enough room to get your drill in there you can do it in place. Just be sure to use cutting oil.

The 12 point bolt Febi p/n is 054 54051 280

[RunninWild]

I found one locally. Got a new belt as well.

If I Jack the Engine up I can have a straight shot with the drill. Is there an issue with using the holes as a template? Isn't there a chance they would get enlarged and the dowels won't fit snug?

I was thinking of getting the new and the original drilled and using the original as the template. Sadly I don't have a drill press. Hoping a machine shop won't charge a buttload to drill 8 holes...

What size dowels would you suggest I use? Was thinking of doing 3 or 4 dowels...

[bridgetroll13]

I used 3/16". Probably just use 2 pins. Probably wouldn't hurt to do a search to see what others have done. 

[Rock3tman]

I had the nose of my 1.6TD crank (stock CY code mechanical lifter engine) machined for the TDI style sprocket (P/N  038105263E, genuine VW OEM not chinese).   It seems to be more beefy than 1.6TD stock keyway or small pins, etc. solutions.  Got everything as clean as possible, blue loctited, a brand new 12point stretch bolt with the integrated washer, and torqued to 66 ft. lbs + about 1/3 turn more.    Libbydiesel explained how to add the "D" shaped flat to the crank nose somewhere here  I think...

Added a 90amp alternator, so went with the serp belt solution with a clutched alternator pulley.   Probably overkill, but I didn't want to do all that work again...