Author Topic: Basic IDI vs mTDI questions  (Read 10777 times)

Reply #30December 22, 2015, 10:25:07 am

mammonista

  • Junior

  • Offline
  • **

  • 56
Re: Basic IDI vs mTDI questions
« Reply #30 on: December 22, 2015, 10:25:07 am »
But that would put the drain at the top of the bearing housing...and the only way I could re-orient the bearing housing so the drain was pointing down would be to plumb a new wastegate/boost pressure tube. 
I'm just guessing here as I have no experience with with whatever German VW or Audi this thing came off of.
Does anyone know is VW/Audi made a model where the mating surface of the exhaust side of the turbo (red arrow) would not point 'up' to meet the downward pointing exhaust manifold? Or do I need to unbolt the bearing housing and turn it 180 degrees so that the oil drain pipe (green arrow) is pointing downward?
Or maybe the oil drain is meant to be at the 'top' of the housing to keep the bearings submerged in oil once the engine is turned off?


If it doesn't fit force it. If it breaks it needed replacing anyway!

Reply #31December 22, 2015, 11:02:11 am

deepgrooves74

  • Junior

  • Offline
  • **

  • 68
    • This is my build thread... Bucket.
Re: Basic IDI vs mTDI questions
« Reply #31 on: December 22, 2015, 11:02:11 am »
Here is my turbo which is a K24 mounted with the drain going down and the smaller oil feed from the top:








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Reply #32December 22, 2015, 11:52:08 am

mammonista

  • Junior

  • Offline
  • **

  • 56
Re: Basic IDI vs mTDI questions
« Reply #32 on: December 22, 2015, 11:52:08 am »
well that tells me the bearing carrier housing needs to be turned 180 degrees to point the oil drain down instead of up. I should have mentioned this is going in my '87 DIY DOKA using an '84 Quantum TD exhaust manifold where the engine was oriented north/south and the old T3 turbo bolted to the end of the manifold.  I just hope the integral wastegate on the K14 clears the exhaust manifold runners.
If it doesn't fit force it. If it breaks it needed replacing anyway!

Reply #33December 22, 2015, 12:54:31 pm

deepgrooves74

  • Junior

  • Offline
  • **

  • 68
    • This is my build thread... Bucket.
Re: Basic IDI vs mTDI questions
« Reply #33 on: December 22, 2015, 12:54:31 pm »

well that tells me the bearing carrier housing needs to be turned 180 degrees to point the oil drain down instead of up. I should have mentioned this is going in my '87 DIY DOKA using an '84 Quantum TD exhaust manifold where the engine was oriented north/south and the old T3 turbo bolted to the end of the manifold.  I just hope the integral wastegate on the K14 clears the exhaust manifold runners.

I had to heat up the exhaust side, and then hit it with a mallet in order for it to rotate. This was just because when I had my turbo rebuilt they had put it back together with the exhaust side clocked 180° out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Reply #34December 22, 2015, 02:36:08 pm

mammonista

  • Junior

  • Offline
  • **

  • 56
Re: Basic IDI vs mTDI questions
« Reply #34 on: December 22, 2015, 02:36:08 pm »
Anyone out there running this set-up (k14 on a quantum td manifold) on a vanagon? just curious as to whether the wastegate actuator will clear the manifold...
If it doesn't fit force it. If it breaks it needed replacing anyway!

Reply #35December 22, 2015, 06:22:15 pm

libbydiesel

  • Global Moderator
  • Veteran

  • Offline
  • *****

  • 3416
Re: Basic IDI vs mTDI questions
« Reply #35 on: December 22, 2015, 06:22:15 pm »
There are a tremendous number of people in 'other' markets using the K14 on the quantum manifold.  Approximately half of all of the vanagons sold in the world came stock that way.  You might want to make life easy on yourself and get the stock vanagon 1.6TD oil return line and supply line.  If you have the non-turbo pan, you might want to get the turbo version as well so everything is bolt-in. 

Reply #36December 22, 2015, 11:33:58 pm

mammonista

  • Junior

  • Offline
  • **

  • 56
Re: Basic IDI vs mTDI questions
« Reply #36 on: December 22, 2015, 11:33:58 pm »
Whew, breathing a sigh of relief here. The oil lines shouldn't be a problem and my van diesel pan already has an oil return fitting heliarced into it. So I should be good to go.
If it doesn't fit force it. If it breaks it needed replacing anyway!

Reply #37January 03, 2016, 09:12:23 pm

mammonista

  • Junior

  • Offline
  • **

  • 56
Re: Basic IDI vs mTDI questions
« Reply #37 on: January 03, 2016, 09:12:23 pm »
Okay another couple of dumb questions. I'm gonna guess that my NXS boost controller gets plumbed into the the stainless line (green arrows) between the turbo outlet and the wastegate on my K14. Is that right? If so should I just cut the line with a tubing cutter and use short pieces of tubing to connect to the barbs on the actuator? And what the heck does the threaded rod and nut (red arrow) on the actuator adjust?
If it doesn't fit force it. If it breaks it needed replacing anyway!

Reply #38January 03, 2016, 09:18:06 pm

deepgrooves74

  • Junior

  • Offline
  • **

  • 68
    • This is my build thread... Bucket.
Basic IDI vs mTDI questions
« Reply #38 on: January 03, 2016, 09:18:06 pm »


On the wastegate you can adjust the tension against the spring internally. That should change at what pressure the wastegate opens up.

The boost controller slows down how quickly the pressure goes through into the wastegate. That way the turbo will build more boost before the wastegate opens up and dumps it into the exhaust system.

How was my explanation gentlemen?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
« Last Edit: January 03, 2016, 09:20:58 pm by deepgrooves74 »

Reply #39January 03, 2016, 11:20:46 pm

RunninWild

  • Veteran

  • Offline
  • ***

  • 609
Re: Basic IDI vs mTDI questions
« Reply #39 on: January 03, 2016, 11:20:46 pm »
Yeah you cut the green line and tap into it.

I'm not 100% sure but the adjustment on top of the actuator I believe is to set the opening pressure. I don't think it offers much adjustment but I'm pretty sure it's how the factory boost level was fine tuned.

Reply #40January 04, 2016, 07:32:01 am

RabbitJockey

  • Veteran

  • Offline
  • ***

  • 5064
  • Personal Text
    America, DUCK YEAH!!!
Re: Basic IDI vs mTDI questions
« Reply #40 on: January 04, 2016, 07:32:01 am »
i think the adjustment on the waste gate only adjusts how far the wastegate valve can open, so you can use it to increase maximum boost pressure, but using a mbc is probably the best way to do it, and it increases spool up times.
01 Jetta TDI 100% stock daily
81 Rabbit:TDI-M ported head, Frank06 cam, PD intake, hybrid T3 turbo, Renault intercooler, Syl20 11mm pump, light weight fw, and yellow California Clutch clutch kit

Reply #41January 08, 2016, 03:28:54 pm

mammonista

  • Junior

  • Offline
  • **

  • 56
Re: Basic IDI vs mTDI questions
« Reply #41 on: January 08, 2016, 03:28:54 pm »
Flywheel on...ready to bolt on Kennedy Stage One pressure plate  with new clutch disk.  Help me out here...I don't seem to remember needing longer pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts the last time I put in a stiffer clutch, but that was 10 years ago and my memory ain't what it used to be. :) The stock bolts seem to be about 1/4" short
' .
If it doesn't fit force it. If it breaks it needed replacing anyway!

Reply #42January 10, 2016, 04:48:53 pm

mammonista

  • Junior

  • Offline
  • **

  • 56
Re: Basic IDI vs mTDI questions
« Reply #42 on: January 10, 2016, 04:48:53 pm »
Okay sumpin' ain't right.
I think the flywheel on my 1.9 AAZ (IDI) diesel came off a 1.6 IDI engine from a junkyard Quantum about 15 years ago. When I upgraded to the new Canadian 1.9 engine 10 years ago I just kept the 228mm flywheel and pressure plate. Now I'm upgrading the clutch and going with a Kennedy Engineered Products Stage 1 228mm pressure plate. But their 228mm pressure plate won't fit!
After a trip to the machine shop to clean it up I bolted on the 228mm flywheel that's been on this 1.9 AAZ forever. I slipped on the new 228mm heavy duty clutch disk. But the pressure plate bolt holes don't line up. They're not far enough out from the center when compared with the bolt holes on the flywheel. And the three locating dowels on the flywheel don't line up with the three pressure plate holes either. But the pressure plate is clearly a 228mm unit. Does anyone know if 1.6 IDIs came with different 228mm flywheels than the 1.9 IDIs? Or for that matter did Wasserboxers came with 228mm clutches but with a differently configured flywheel and Kennedy sent me the wrong pressure plate?
HELP?
« Last Edit: January 11, 2016, 09:39:02 am by mammonista »
If it doesn't fit force it. If it breaks it needed replacing anyway!

Reply #43January 15, 2016, 09:27:05 am

theman53

  • Global Moderator
  • Veteran

  • Offline
  • ****

  • 7837
  • Personal Text
    Holmes County Ohio - North Central Ohio
Re: Basic IDI vs mTDI questions
« Reply #43 on: January 15, 2016, 09:27:05 am »
The 1.6 never came with anything over a 200mm pp. The 228 is a different plate for a different clutch all together. There is a regular style pp that is 215mm that looks like the 228mm...just buy a new pp that will fit your clutch.

Reply #44January 26, 2016, 03:58:33 pm

mammonista

  • Junior

  • Offline
  • **

  • 56
Re: Basic IDI vs mTDI questions
« Reply #44 on: January 26, 2016, 03:58:33 pm »
okay so I had the problem with the 228mm pressure plate not fitting the flywheel that has been on this 1.9 AAZ engine forever. I call Kennedy Engineered Products out in Cali who I ordered the pressure plate from and they tell me it's a 228mm pressure plate for a wasserboxer and won't fit a diesel flywheel. so then I do a little searching and somebody over at Vortex or Samba says what I need is a G60 flywheel and a VR6 pressure plate to go in the Van's DK transaxle. So I quick go on Ebay and order a used G60 flywheel and a new pressure stage 1 plate from some other company (Kennedy doesn't make 'em). So the new(used) flywheel arrives and...it's the same one that was already on the van. >:( 
The new pressure plate arrives this week. I sure hope it fits. This is getting old!
If it doesn't fit force it. If it breaks it needed replacing anyway!