1.6td injection pump fuel screw settings

[Orb95]

I will continue with the break in, does anyone have a clue how long this could take? It's pretty embarrassing driving down the road and killing every insect in the Tri state area

[libbydiesel]

Is there air entering the pump on the supply side?

[Orb95]

I don't know if there is air getting in the system because all of my lines are rubber from the previous owner. The rpms are surging up and down at idle right now, so that could definitely be air in the system.

[air-cooled or diesel]

It is normal for there to be low compression before the rings seat especially when the engine is first running.

and lower if motor is cold too

[libbydiesel]

I don't know if there is air getting in the system because all of my lines are rubber from the previous owner. The rpms are surging up and down at idle right now, so that could definitely be air in the system.

Then step one is to replace the supply and return lines with clear.

[air-cooled or diesel]

the rubber lines po put on is a sign you need to check for leaks, you can, until you get clear line, get new rubber line and clamps and run, i ran from return too. the inlet needs a reducer to size, or adapter. inlet is like 1/4" and fuel line is 3/8", normally.
after 10-20 miles engine will start breaking in, full break in (after full rebuild) can take 5000miles, with oil changes. rings will seat in 500-1000miles. you should get less oil smoke in a few miles. and have little after 200 or so miles.
your stalling and rough running sure sounds like air in fuel system. pump main seal is usual culprit. since you had timing bolt on pump open, it had a copper washer right? if it was already in there it may need extra tightening, check stuff like shutoff solenoid that its not sucking air in, fuel leaks on pressure side, which should be obvious.

[air-cooled or diesel]

  Did you adjust the valves?

mech head or hydro? you need shims to adj valves, and tool

[rallydiesel]

This might not be the most popular suggestion, but at this point, I would try changing the pump timing while the engine is running. I used to have a 1.6td that ran much better at a signicantly more advanced setting than normal. I would loosen the timing bolts and leave one just tight enough to move the pump by hand, then start the car and try slowly tilting the pump towards the engine. If the engine starts to run smoother and the smoke clears then you found the problem. If it starts to get louder and more metallic sounding then stop and go back to the stock setting.

[Dakotakid]

Well, if you are going to encourage him to time it like this, you have the responsibility to inform him how to take the stress off his fuel lines after rolling the pump around like a chimp with a coconut!

[rallydiesel]

Ha!

[air-cooled or diesel]

if motor is running and/or injection lines are tight, pump will turn very little until lines bind. loosen and retighten all 8 line nuts. both sides of each line need to be loosened before retightening, so i loosen all 8--,,

[Orb95]

It is a mechanical head, the machine shop set the valves as to my bentley specs. What i have recently noticed, the previous owner bolted the fuel filter to the rain tray above the turbo, and is on a 45 degree angle. I try to crack open that bleeder on top of the filter flange while the engine is running and no fuel comes out, the motor only dies. With the way the filter is positioned I think there is a pocket of air at the top of the filter, is there an easy way to get this out? Maybe trying to put it back to it's stock position would be best.

If the hardened lines are cracked loose while the motor is running to time the pump by hand, won't it leak and run like crap?

On another note anyone have any tips for getting glow plugs to seal? There are bubbles leaking from around the threads, took them out, cleaned the threads good, threaded them back in, but still they leak.

[vanbcguy]

You loosen the lines to relieve stress after adjusting the timing and bolting the pump back up. It's a critical step, I personally had a line break after not doing that.

[libbydiesel]

IF there is air entering the pump then it messes up the timing.  Trying to time by ear before making sure there is not air infiltration is counter-productive.  Do not be distracted by hillbilly pump timing at this point in time.  You run the serious risk of running the engine at low load long enough that the rings will never seat. 

Step One: get clear lines on the supply and return.

[Orb95]

Well stupid me discovered the cam timing was a tooth or two off somehow. I thought it was all adjusted and correct, something clearly was not.

NOW that the cam is adjusted CORRECTLY the motor is running better! I have higher compression numbers, in the low 400's. And is producing black smoke on acceleration, not that disgusting white raw diesel. I have the clear tubing on order, should be in soon, then I can determine if I am getting air in the system. I'll update tomorrow when I take it for the first ride after adjusting the cam.