Whats what?

[RunninWild]

I just swapped a 1.6td into my samurai. Getting everything fairly close to start up. I'm looking for a little help to figure out a bit of the wiring.

On the back of the head below the coolant outlet is a 1 wire sensor, what is this?  I assumed its a temp sensor but my engine management doesnt seem to like it.
The sensor on the oil filter housing is a pressure switch, temperature sender, or pressure sender?
Does anyone know what wire is what on the coolant sensors on the outlet coming off the side of the head?

[burn_your_money]

Did the donor have AC? Yes = 3 coolant sensors. No = 2 coolant sensors.

The one on the oil filter housing is a pressure switch. The other one is on the side (back) of the head.

If you have non - AC, one sensor is coolant temp for the gauge, the other is coolant temp for the glow plugs. They are slightly different but shouldn't cause issues to mix up.

If you have AC, the above applies and the 3rd sensor is a temp cut off for the AC.

Use your ohm meter and see what the readings are and how they change as the coolant temp changes.

[bajacalal]

Are you talking about the item that threads directly into the back of the head? That's part of the oil pressure monitoring system. In the VW it makes the idiot light come on when the oil pressure is below 7 psi (?) and the key is on, I think the circuit opens once oil pressure there exceeds that.

The temp sensors a 1.6 would have is one for the gauge and one for the glow plugs, I believe both are 1 wire and go to the water neck in the back of the head, and one for the a/c which switches the a/c off in an overhead and is two wire on the side where the radiator upper hose connects. Some of the later ones though I think had a 2-wire sensor for the gauge, where the water neck is plastic so the sensor needs a ground.

[RunninWild]

I just had a better look at it. I have 2 on the outlet on the side of the head and both have 4 wires and look more or less the same. There is no sensor on the outlet pipe coming off the back of the head

I'll ignore the sensor on the back of the head then, or better yet can it be replaced with a full range pressure sender? Would I be able to find one in the same thread size?

I just filled the coolant and I have a leak by the thermostat. When I replaced the thermostat I couldn't get the housing to sit flush around it, both ends were tight and it kind of bowed in the middles between the bolts. I played around with it for maybe 15min when I was changing it and I had the same problem when I tried the old thermostat so I figured that was "normal". Obiously not, any idea what I was doing wrong there?

But on to some good news! Ignoring my cooling problems, lack of exhaust, lack of a v belt on the water pump and alternator, and no glow plug wiring of any kind I primed the system and was able to get it started after 10-15 seconds of cranking! It reved nicely and idled fine for the 5 seconds or so I let it. Then I started it again and it idled a few more seconds then stalled. I think I have some air in the lines still but I feel such relief I know for a fact its working and with a few more hours of work I should be able to go for my first test drive!

[RunninWild]

also can anyone recommend a fairly cheap oil filter relocation kit?

[vanbcguy]

The oil pressure sensor on the head can be removed and replaced with a full range sensor, yes.  The thread is M10x1.0 which requires a copper washer to seal.  1/8NPT will thread in there and seal fine with some teflon tape, you will probably lose the ability to go back to M10x1.0 in the future if you wanted to though.  I've ended up doing that for my oil pressure and oil temp sensors as the M10 to 1/8NPT adapters I got leaked badly, while the 1/8NPT sensor in the M10 hole sealed up great.

[RunninWild]

Thanks Vanbcguy I'll look into a new sensor in the near future.

Is the oil pressure switch normall open or normally closed? When set to N/C on my gauge I get a warning going off with both the engine off and on, with N/O I dont get a warning with the engine off or on. Is there an easy way to test that sensor with a volt meter? If I remember right I think I saw the oil light on on the car I pulled it from, maybe the sensor is bad? Or maybe the oil pump isn't working. Any easy way to test if the pump is running short of pulling the turbo feed line?

Also what is the oil capacity? I have my engine jacked up on the passenger side to give some clearance from my axle and its causing my dipstick to read way high. I just drained the oil, then poured in most of a gallon and I was about 1/2" above the full line. I'm also skeptical I was able to get all the oil out as the drain plug is now on the higher side of the pan. I'm not sure what I should do with oil capacity now, maybe its causing it to sit high on one side, I'm worried if I fill too much the crank might impact the oil and cause some damage?

As I feared the themostat housing is leaking, I'll try another one  I have laying around, maybe I can get it sealed better with it.

[vanbcguy]

The dynamic oil pressure alarm uses two sensors. The one on the head is normally closed (opens with pressure) while the one on the filter flange is normally open (closes with pressure). The head switch is super low pressure - like 0.1 bar - and is only used below 2000 RPM. It does not active the alarm, it just flashes the oil light on the dash. The one on the flange is more like 2 bar and is only used above 2000 RPM. It will trigger the alarm.

If the head sensor is removed and replaced with a gauge but the flange sensor left in place the 2k alarm still functions normally but you need to watch your gauge at idle. Best of both worlds, you still get an auditory warning plus you can see what is actually going on.

If you have the wrong pressure sensors or they are flipped around the alarm will always go off over 2k.

Aaand now that I wrote all of that I realize you aren't using a VW oil pressure system. Ha.

Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk

[burn_your_money]

To test the oil pump I'd remove the sensor in the side of the head and crank it over. It's not going to give you a pressure reading but at least you'll know you are getting flow to the last parts of the circuit.

[RunninWild]

Ive got oil pressure. pulled the turbo feed line and dumped about a liter of oil all over the ground. Dont know what I was thinking without a catch can.

Think I fixed the coolant leak. Does the O ring on the thermostat go on the outlet side of the thermostat? I was sure It was under the thermostat on the wp side when I replaced it. Switching the O ring to the outside made it possible for the outlet housing to sit flush. And doesnt look like its leaking, atleast with the vehicle off anyways.

Anyways I've got 2 coolant sensors on the outlet on the side of the head. Both are 4 wire, and the outlet on the rear of the head has no sensor. Does anyone know what wire is what?

[RunninWild]

Well got it mostly done, went for a test drive but the car started to overheat within a few minutes. Had tuns of power up until that point though.

The details: under 5 minute drive
Heat from heater
All coolant hoses were hot except for the lower rad hose
Top of rad was warm, bottom was cold
A few slight kinky in the hoses but nothing big enough to block flow.
Water pump is also new

Any ideas? Any chance a faulty thermostat could cause this?

[ORCoaster]

Thermo might be at fault or you have an air lock in the system.  With heat on in the cab you may not.  Let it cool and see if you just need more coolant in the reserve.