So your saying that exact part fits the Garrett T3?
I am starting to wonder if you can read. I stated clearly that it is "like that only for our turbo." In other words, no, that says it is for a 6.0 powerstroke and unless they take the same bearing it will not fit. Call around, better yet just send the turbo in and have someone else do it as I think this is way out of your skill range.
Although I'm having a hard time getting a broken bolt out of the water pump bolt holes.
Is the broken bolt in the block? Get a washer that would fit around the bolt, place it over the broken bolt and weld it to the bolt. You can then use vice grips or a pipe wrench to unspin it.
That looks like a classic "I broke the timing belt, oh well let's put a new one on without pulling the head... Hey look it runs!" Months later... valve drops its head, destruction ensues...
So your saying that exact part fits the Garrett T3?
I am starting to wonder if you can read. I stated clearly that it is "like that only for our turbo." In other words, no, that says it is for a 6.0 powerstroke and unless they take the same bearing it will not fit. Call around, better yet just send the turbo in and have someone else do it as I think this is way out of your skill range.
I can read! I just can't read good
Although I'm having a hard time getting a broken bolt out of the water pump bolt holes.
Is the broken bolt in the block? Get a washer that would fit around the bolt, place it over the broken bolt and weld it to the bolt. You can then use vice grips or a pipe wrench to unspin it.
The bolt was fubar. Im understanding now why I got this setup for so cheap. (missing turbo drain line, 4 broken studs in the intake/exhaust manifold, broken bolt in the water pump housing bolt, and 1 broken nut for the timing belt backing plate). But still, $600 for a turbo longblock with turbo and a tranny (with good clutch), I can't complain.
The good news is, I got that broken bolt out today
PAIN IN THE ARSE! Drilled a hole and when I tried using the Easy-out.... SNAP. Broke that sucker off in there. Spent 2 hours grinding, drilling, and digging that mother out. Hopefully its smooth sailing from here on out. And thats a valve thats sitting on the piston.
That looks like a classic "I broke the timing belt, oh well let's put a new one on without pulling the head... Hey look it runs!" Months later... valve drops its head, destruction ensues...
Actually... the bottom end was rebuilt. I just had the head inspected instead of disassembled and properly checked/machined/ valve job performed. I still have no idea how it grenaded. I was cruising at 75 when all of a sudden the engine stopped. I pulled over and checked the timing, it was fine. Just really hard to turn over. Temp was fine the whole trip. The only clue (and maybe a big clue) was that this happened after about 8 hours of driving. And the turbo bolts had worked themselves loose after about 6.5 hours. Now, I suspected EGT because I read that high EGT's can cause cylinder pressures to reach their peak, but I dont know. And when I set injection pump timing I set it REALLY low... thinking it was going to help MPG (and it did 38-40mpg before it blew)I'm up for any theories anyone might have.
9 times out of 10 that failure happens because a valve got whacked and had its stem damaged. They usually continue to work for a while afterwards - a few thousand miles seems to be the norm - then the stem finally breaks.
Where did the head come from?
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While peak cylinder pressures and peak EGTs may occur at the same time they are not directly related. One can raise/lower EGTs without affecting peak cylinder pressures in the same way and vice versa. Regardless, both valves are closed when cylinder pressures build so the cylinder pressures never act on the valve stem/head junction. You either had a faulty valve or mechanical damage to the valve.
9 times out of 10 that failure happens because a valve got whacked and had its stem damaged. They usually continue to work for a while afterwards - a few thousand miles seems to be the norm - then the stem finally breaks.
Where did the head come from?
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Stock MF engine code 1.6 TD head.
I meant the history of that specific head...
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Nope. No history. I bought the used complete motor from a local guy who works at a store called "Vee Parts" and I decided to recondition the bottom end... and now that I think about it (this was 6-7 years ago). I did have a guy do a valve job on it. Who knows if he tested the springs though.
Was probably a bad valve, a lot of folks are convinced that they won't seal if they are damaged so they never really check them out. Unfortunately you've got a perfect example in front of you.
Well, I bet you make double sure the valves are all good in whatever you build next!
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Next time I rebuild an engine I'm going to really build it. 35 year old parts just won't cut it.