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Author Topic: HOT DASHER, Can't cool it down.  (Read 6018 times)

Reply #30July 25, 2015, 08:30:52 pm

ORCoaster

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Re: HOT DASHER, Can't cool it down.
« Reply #30 on: July 25, 2015, 08:30:52 pm »
I thought about the plugged up Rad and did the look through and found it to be sound and in good condition.  I ran my hand across the fins real lightly and nothing bent or disintegrated as I have seen with that sort of thing here in the salt coastline.   

The car has two temp sensors on it and one is marked 119 degrees.  When I plugged into that one the fan came on and never shut off.  That is what I meant with "on high all the time".  That is the only way it seemed to cool the engine at all.  So some how the cool water was getting mixed or pumped into the block enough that the temp gauge installed at the head, that would be the aftermarket one, would show 160 or so.  Unplug the fan and the temp would rise to 210 on the gauge and boil over on the overflow would ensue. 

So based on that performance I assumed that the Rad was functioning properly in that if the fan was on it would produce cool water at the bottom end of it.

Still haven't heard from my son if this engine is running cool or not.  I think he has other jobs around the place and is looking to tackle this one when it isn't 105 outside.  Working over the overheating engine was not fun with the temps at 100.  It did boil over quick however.


Reply #31July 26, 2015, 03:56:07 am

air-cooled or diesel

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Re: HOT DASHER, Can't cool it down.
« Reply #31 on: July 26, 2015, 03:56:07 am »
   The car has two temp sensors on it and one is marked 119 degrees.  When I plugged into that one the fan came on and never shut off.  That is what I meant with "on high all the time".  That is the only way it seemed to cool the engine at all.  So some how the cool water was getting mixed or pumped into the block enough that the temp gauge installed at the head, that would be the aftermarket one, would show 160 or so.  Unplug the fan and the temp would rise to 210 on the gauge and boil over on the overflow would ensue. 

i forget; cause all my have the Top rad hose as the coolest point, and its flowed from the water pump pushed to the top of rad, and flow,cool,the head.
160f is fine, water boils around 212f, so your gauge reading 210f is aok to me, did you have cap on when you did this running?reservoir cap,,

i totally forget coolant mix boiling point, a lot higher than 212f(water boil pt), so if you saying farenheit, your well cool, put reservoir cap on,,??
« Last Edit: July 26, 2015, 04:07:15 am by air-cooled or diesel »

Reply #32July 26, 2015, 07:47:32 am

TylerDurden

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Re: HOT DASHER, Can't cool it down.
« Reply #32 on: July 26, 2015, 07:47:32 am »
  I ran it with and without a thermostat and only saw good temps with it out and the fan on high all the time.

When I try without a thermostat I see low temp and fan is ON only 1-2 time for short time,if I read you right.
Some say in summer just take it off,but for me you just mask the problem,or it`s normal for 20+ year car.

Running without a t-stat allows hot water from the bypass hose to -re-enter the pump... t-stats close the bypass while opening the radiator hose.

Reply #33July 26, 2015, 09:20:59 am

theman53

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Re: HOT DASHER, Can't cool it down.
« Reply #33 on: July 26, 2015, 09:20:59 am »
  I ran it with and without a thermostat and only saw good temps with it out and the fan on high all the time.

When I try without a thermostat I see low temp and fan is ON only 1-2 time for short time,if I read you right.
Some say in summer just take it off,but for me you just mask the problem,or it`s normal for 20+ year car.

Running without a t-stat allows hot water from the bypass hose to -re-enter the pump... t-stats close the bypass while opening the radiator hose.

I think I said this, and most of the stuff the others are suggesting, on page one.

still would like to know if the block is flat.
« Last Edit: July 26, 2015, 09:24:01 am by theman53 »

Reply #34July 26, 2015, 09:06:06 pm

ORCoaster

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Re: HOT DASHER, Can't cool it down.
« Reply #34 on: July 26, 2015, 09:06:06 pm »
My ability to work on this is like nil as I am 14 hrs away from it. 

I was in the process of trying to replace thermostats and it ran out of fuel and I ran out of energy.  It was 105 that day.  I asked my son to double check the thermostats in hot water because I suspect they do not or would not open when in a water only immersion.  I had plenty of trouble with the tabs breaking off of the temp sensors, the one staying on all the time and the potential of the sticky 190 and 160 degree thermostats 

The head was milled and the block was very flat and well in spec.  That doesn't rule out a blown gasket and that is where I left it with my son.  Test the thermos, pull the head and double check for proper operation and the condition of the valves. 

Not sure he will figure it out before I get to visit next year.  Thanks for all the help on this.  I wish it were here and not there.