Want to build an M-TDI how?

[Torchd]

I have a mark II golf and I want to have an MTDI motor in it. A very fast one with minimal parts which I have to buy. I currently have a 1.6TD engine with K24 turbo and an AAZ in parts with early style non functional pump.

I can get a LR 200/300TDI IP, now whats the best TDI engine I can have to work with the LR pump. Is the 200 TDI pump more suitable or the 300 TDI one? Also, I would like to have a VTG turbo one it and as far as I could gather, AFN and one or two others were the only ones with VTGs? I have also read good things about the AFN motor. So should I get the AFN motor or any other like the ALE, AHU, ASV?

Would a VTG be better with an MTDI or a K24 from the 1.6TD (MF)? I want a car that is decent at low speeds and does not run out of juice at higher speeds.

Thanks!

[Torchd]

Also, Will have have to replace the stock nozzles with some other to use the LR pump? If yes which ones will I need?

[vanbcguy]

Either the 200 or 300 pump will work. I think the 300 pump will result in an engine that's a little quieter and possibly a bit better behaved, but I don't know that the difference is substantial enough to ignore a good deal on a 200 pump.  Either way though make sure it's from a MANUAL TRANSMISSION vehicle; the automatic pump was an electronic one just like the stock TDI pump.

Turbo... Running a variable vane turbo is a lot of work, to be honest.  I have one on mine but I had to build a complete electronic control system for it from scratch.  I don't know your level of familiarity with computers/electronics - if you know what an Arduino is and want to make a fun project I can help you out, but if you don't know what a MOSFET is or how to connect via serial using a terminal program it might be a bit much for you.  I think you can get results almost as good as a VNT with a LOT less effort by going with a small Holset turbo like the ones "Alcaid" on this forum is selling.  Your K24 would work too, but it's a very old design and won't have the performance potential of a newer turbo (remember it was the early 1980s when VW started using those, meaning they probably made their design decisions in the end of the 1970s... lots of improvements in turbo technology since then!!)

I'm not totally familiar with all the Euro engine codes; I believe you have two different families of engines listed there.  The AHU / 1Z / AFN / some other Euro codes fits the Mk2 chassis exactly like the 1.6 you have now.  The ALH / ASV / some other Euro codes are meant for the Mk4 platform which was a totally new design; you would need aftermarket conversion engine mounts to make it fit.  VW kept their block design the same from the late 1970s through the end of the 1990s, then they did a 'clean sheet' redesign.  The AHU / 1Z / AFN are from the 'old' family as is the 1.6 you had, while the ALH / ASV are from the 'new' family.

If you are going M-TDI and using a non-stock turbo then all of those engines can be expected to perform identically.  They all have the same bore / stroke / compression ratio and have extremely similar cams and heads.  I'd stick with one that fits the chassis properly rather than trying to force a conversion that isn't going to gain you anything.  The AFN has a better stock exhaust manifold than the AHU / 1Z but that's not enough reason to choose it on its own, get whichever one find the best deal on.  If you get a complete engine you'll most likely be able to sell the stock turbo / injection pump for a fair bit of cash.

Nozzles - the stock ones will certainly work fine.  They'll provide a healthy power bump over a stock 1.6TD (90/110 HP depending on engine version versus 68 HP for a 1.6TD).  Aftermarket nozzles will give you more than that though if you want it.  150 HP would NOT be difficult to hit.

Also worth mentioning - your current 020 transmission CAN be used with a lower power build but it won't stand up to much abuse.  The 020 won't stand up to the torque of a higher output TDI for very long.  Might want to consider an 02A/02J swap.

[Torchd]

Thanks VanBCgGuy for the detailed write up!

Okay I will use the LR 300 TDI manual tranny pump.

If I now using the K24 then I will use the stock AFN turbo-I will like to get the afn engine since its the only engine with under pressure controlled VTG whatever that is.

I am not looking for stick power of 110. I will be looking for 150 at least. What gearbox does the AFN come with? Also will the pump need any work to get 150bhp? ANd what aftermarkety nozzles will have to be used? What are . 235,250 .280 and .310 when it comes to nozzles? Are these bosch numbers like the 1.6TD has Bosch DN0 SD 294...?
Will I need other things to mount the LR pump and the AFN engine, other than the ones I already have? Timing the engine will be no different than timing the MF or AAZ?

[vanbcguy]

The AFN turbo is a VNT that was controlled by the computer - it isn't going to work without the ECU.

All of the TDIs that directly bolt in to a Mk2 came with an 02A.  The transmission that goes with the engine is what you want - it has the right gear ratios and is strong enough to live behind a TDI.

The Rover pump will do 150 HP no problem.  No internal modifications are necessary.  All that you'll need to do is turn up the fuel screw a bit and possibly adjust the LDA, but you'd need to do those things no matter what.

Nozzles - the numbers represent a hole size.  The bigger the number, the more flow capability, at least in theory.  Sizing between different vendors aren't entirely consistent in terms of their actual capability.  I have HFLOX Warp-7 (.275) nozzles in my engine which are supposed to be rated for about 230 HP.

To mount the LR pump you'll need to take the pump and the bracket to a machine shop and have them enlarge the mounting hole a bit.  The Rover pump has a larger snout on it than the AHU/1Z/AFN pumps.  Here in Vancouver, Canada (where rent and labour are expensive) I paid about $75 to have that done, it's probably much cheaper where you live.  That will allow you to mount the pump to the bracket.  You will also want to find an IP pulley and hub from an ALH or other Mk4 engine - you're looking for the type with the two piece pulley.  Without that you won't be able to adjust the timing.

Yes, setting the timing is the same as on a 1.6.  You use a dial gauge.  The Rover 300 TDI pump I used wanted timing set to about 1.45mm, mine was from an EGR-equipped engine.  I think the non-EGR one may have a different cam plate.

[libbydiesel]

The LR timing pin/slot/hole is larger than the VW timing pin/hole/slot.  If you pin the Rover pump with the appropriately sized drill bit, lock the pump shaft using the side bolt, remove the rover hub, bush the timing pin hole with the appropriate bushing, and then install ALH hub pinned to the pump, the timing will be very close to correct.  You might also want to trim the rover pump where the timing pin hole is located as it protrudes further than the VW pumps and if the stock sprocket bolts are used, they will interfere with the pump case there. 

[vanbcguy]

Worth mentioning re: the sprocket bolts - apparently stretch bolts were used by VW on some ALH engines, so you may want to consider replacing those bolts regardless.