Mk1 question on bearings

[Rock3tman]

..not sure where to post this one: while replacing left front control arm bushings and balljoint, the hub seems loose.   I can move it approximately 1/8" radially in any direction. I have the driveshaft and all of the brake parts removed. The Bentley for Mk1 diesels doesn't seem to give a specification for hub runout. Bearings are of unknown age/mileage/quality.

What do you suggest; pull the spindle and replace bearing or?     Is there a source for German front bearings? Thx in advance

[Rabbit79]

It's been a long time since I've went through a front end but if I recall correctly all that stuff is press fit, so there shouldn't be any play at all. Sounds to me like a bad bearing is most likely.
When I last did mine I got my bearings from Parts Place, and they did sell me German bearings (FAG if I recall right), although nowadays even if they're sold by a German company that's no guarantee they're made in Germany.

[ORCoaster]

The Bearings do indeed fit tight in the hubs so it sounds like your bearings are gone.  The bearings get pressed into the Wheel bearing housing and the hub inserts into it.  It might be possible that the hub is also worn but my guess is bearings. 

I have a pair of FAG 532066BB   Germany stamped bearings on the workbench that could be yours.  PM and we can try and work something out.   

Shipping from Mid Coast of Oregon to you. 

[fatmobile]

Is the axle nut snugged down?

[Rock3tman]

No, the axle/driveshaft is not even installed.   Will this affect my apparent slop in the front wheel bearing?

[Rabbit79]

No. When you put all that stuff together you have to press the bearing into the steering knuckle (or bearing housing as VW calls it), and then press the hub into the inside of the bearing. It's all a tight fit. All the nut really does is pull the axle up tight against the inside of the hub and keep it from sliding in and out.

[air-cooled or diesel]

autohaus is my usual for parts, for suspension you can also use rockauto, cheaper usually, and ok parts(usually last 4yrs). if your going to do that much, and are looking at those problems; why not swap out the whole suspension?i do. control arms go for about $25 each. new bushings pressed in -correct(in book), new wheel bearings, tie rod ends, the drivers may not have an end, if you need to you can get the whole rod+end, &get shop to put it in, or try yourself. ball joints; i do cap bearings; new shocks(4), try tire rack. roll bar bushings?; check brakes; i love to do them right now too(all4), rear wheel bearings. 4 new rubbers&then align. i have a guy who actually does 4-wheel alignments, not just the front two; uses shims on the rear axle stubs to get it straight; i love it! check axles/cv joints, not expensive to swap out. when you put it together and jack can down; 1st thing is torque axle nuts, do not move car until you do so. i d also think about changing transaxle fluid, -all at one time. and done.

[fatmobile]

It might tighten up once you torque the axle nuts down,.. but it has already been pushed around or moved without being tight.
 Hard to get the seal to set back in place once the center races have split apart and feel loose.
If you rolled it without the axle nut tight, that might be the problem. You'll need a new bearing.