1980 Rabbit Diesel manual Project

[theman53]

the keyway on the ip should be around 10 or 11 o'clock IIRC, it is simple to take the nut off and look and see. Make sure you are on the TDC mark for compression and see where it is. If it is 180 it would be around 5 o'clock so it isn't like you will be just a fuzz off. If it is close then it is a matter of the pump timing or air in the lines still.

[acidtonic]

the keyway on the ip should be around 10 or 11 o'clock IIRC, it is simple to take the nut off and look and see. Make sure you are on the TDC mark for compression and see where it is. If it is 180 it would be around 5 o'clock so it isn't like you will be just a fuzz off. If it is close then it is a matter of the pump timing or air in the lines still.

I specifically remember the keyway was at 10-o-clock when I took it off, so when it was time to put it back on I just rotated the sprocket clockwise until the pump sprocket was back at 10-o-clock. Then I locked the pump with the pin and put the timing belt on and proceeded to set timing.

My gut says something is wrong because I've never had it not start after priming the pump. Also never had white smoke behind the car when trying to start. I guess I have some checking to do.

[nissannx]

White is unburnt diesel. So it makes sense your 180 out

[theman53]

From what previous I did read you had an empty IP and filter. If both were empty even if you pull a vacuum on them, there still is probably some air left. Use nothing but diesel, not any fuel additive in the filter etc, and bottle feed it like it was suggested. Once it lights, switch it back over to the tank supply letting as little air in as possible. Nothing sounds too off here to me. If that doesn't work then we could troubleshoot from there.

[acidtonic]

I actually ordered a Mr. Gasket 12D inline diesel fuel pump which came in the mail today at lunch.

I will put it inline and run 12v to it while I try cranking the car. I already tried sticking both hoses into a fresh gallon jug of Diesel but that was before I got the MityVac and pulled a lot of air out.

We'll see how it goes. It's pouring out today so I may not get to it until it's nicer outside.

[acidtonic]

Okay after a quick test I think the timing is off on the pump sprocket. After quickly spinning the engine over to TDC and looking at the pump timing mark on the inside sprocket it's advanced too far to get the locking pin in place easily now.

I don't recall it being that far off when I did the tightening procedure but now I'm sure that's the problem. I'll pull the belt again under better weather and redo it. At least the cam lock fit right in when the crank was at TDC so the valve-train is still timed properly. I think only the pump is wrong now so we're getting  closer

I'm going to wait until I can start the car and drive before I install the electric inline pump. No sense until it's sound and only has prime issues.

[acidtonic]

W00t got it running! Retimed the belt and without any priming it started running on 2 or 3 cylinders for a bit. I had to give it nearly 75% throttle to keep it running. Then all at once it cleared and the revs shot up. Then after letting it warm up I pushed the cold start advance all the way in and the idle dropped without dying. No more white smoke and no drips under the car whatsoever!

I think I'll take it for a spin and then start focusing on the other issues like the vac leak and installing the inline fuel pump now that I know it keeps prime for roughly 3 days now. Looks like it may be reliable enough to become the daily here soon

More to come guys and thanks a ton for your help!

[vanbcguy]

Right on!

[ORCoaster]

my nails will never be the same.

[acidtonic]

I noticed my alternator has a single-wire "V" output which has nothing hooked up. Is this perhaps one of those signal outputs I can use for a Tachometer? I can snap a picture if needed but if that is what I think it is I want to get tach installed tomorrow.

I drove the car around and seemed to smoke a little more than I remember it and the car wanted to buck more than I remember it until it warmed up.... Is that a sign my timing is off on the pump slightly? It drives and such but at partial low-load throttle it's more "bucky" until I give it some throttle and accelerate then it smooths out again.

Also noticing more coolant leaking out right around the vacuum pump. Is that a sign of a vac pump issue itself or just the hosing around the pumps? Does it need a gasket or something?

[vanbcguy]

It's probably a "W" terminal on the alternator. It outputs a high frequency AC signal that drives the stock VW tach. Aftermarket tachs can't understand that signal but there is a converter box manufactured by Dakota Digital which can be put in line between the alternator signal and any standard tach.

There's no coolant passages anywhere near the vacuum pump; you have a leak somewhere else that is ending up there, probably one of the flanges on the head or possibly a leak in the hard pipe going along the front and side of the block.

[acidtonic]

I had a fuel hose on the out-line going to injector #1 come off which required a push start to reprime the pump. Now I really need that inline pump in case that happens again. Now of course I guess I need to ziptie those little hoses so they can't fly off again.

[TylerDurden]

Them little hoses should have very little pressure, decent tubing should hold well without leaking.

I'd also check that the tank return line isn't kinked or plugging. Maybe blow it out with compressed air.

[ORCoaster]

I have found the trick on the little hoses is that you need to push them all the way down and then just give them a light tug upwards to tighten them against the nipple.  If you really want to you can hold the bottom down with a pair of needle nosed pliers and pull up to tighten. 

[acidtonic]

Well I've had no other problems since putting the hose back on. I'll zip tie them tonight for peace of mind. I might be in need of motor mounts because the engine shaking and bucking seems quite bad when going slow in 1st gear. Also light throttle at around 45mph in 4th gear has the engine kinda oscillating forwards and backwards in a feedback loop until I clutch-in or floor the throttle which instantly clears it up.

I noticed on a 40 mile drive that it gets quite warm in the cabin even with no heater as long as I keep the heat circulation lever maxed. Heat radiates out of the little defroster holes on the dash but if I open the vents I get outside air. Still haven't got around to fiddling with the heater fan yet.