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#15
by
libbydiesel
on 30 Oct, 2014 16:33
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I've never seen a max fuel screw that was not also spot welded. I've removed LOTS of them.
I think that return solenoid would likely be useful for controlling advance. One could probably couple that with a pintle lift sensor, load, air temp, coolant temp, etc (all the various inputs of an eTDI) and the appropriate code in order to create an engine management that gave all the minuscule benefits of an eTDI's on-the-fly timing adjustment without the downside of limp or no run when components failed.
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#16
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 30 Oct, 2014 16:40
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Other way around. Bigger hole is open when the solenoid is not powered.
If i find it does something useful i could tie it to a boost switch and a relay perhaps.
Anyway, I've been agonizing over this pump for at least 3 months, but mostly because of how weird it is and it's origins. I'm not going to impugn the guy i got it from, but i have some concerns based on the thread linked above. it could be that i am blowing it out of proportion due to communications failures.
I've only been arguing with it for the last week, since I've only just started to crank this engine over.
Apparently I forgot that the guy i got the car from warned me that the radiator leaks due to a tank separation. The guy he got it from probably just poured a couple bottles of bars leaks in it. When i took possession of the car it had no coolant or oil and the hoses were in the trunk. I have brand new radiator arriving tomorrow.
At any rate, between that and the fact that this car is still on 6 ton jack stands at full extension under the front lift points, there is limited coolant in the head, so i can't play with it at idle much.
I've managed to stop it running away. Something, probably the alternator bearings, is squealing. the alternator is in poor condition and i am leaning heavily toward ordering a remanufactured unit from one of the local parts suppliers. It's the 65A unit with a W terminal so a remanufactured version of the same thing will probably be adequate for my needs.
I've worn down the battery enough that it's not cranking fast enough to start now. Gonna tinker with some other things while it charges.
Thanks again!
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#17
by
libbydiesel
on 30 Oct, 2014 17:17
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So you have it so it will idle now?
I would just replace the solenoid equipped OUT bolt with a typical OUT bolt. It seems to me that if you run the solenoid equipped OUT bolt it will need the solenoid energized always or your dynamic advance will not work.
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#18
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 30 Oct, 2014 17:57
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Yeah. But something squeals and makes me very nervous. And the cooling system is compromised.
.:Sent by pneumatic tubes
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#19
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 30 Oct, 2014 18:15
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Any idea where i would get an m14 out bolt? The VW out bolts are m12 iirc.
I could modify my brake-spec banjo bolt by wadding some copper wool into it or something, but i feel like it would be too halfassed.
.:Sent by pneumatic tubes
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#20
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 30 Oct, 2014 19:21
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Oh, some more fiddling and i got it to start up and idle pretty smooth, and whatever was squealing has found the lubrication it needed. I had dire visions of some errant bit of metal in the wrong place, because everything got installed with a liberal application of assembly lube.
Except for the IM shaft, which fit a little tight, so my machinist friend polished a few nanometers off of it and installed it with a schmear of white lithium grease. this is, fwiw, aside from the IM shaft bearing and the time he helped me lift the block onto the workbench so i could install the rear main seal, the only work he has done on it.
sneaky bastard. he'd told me that he'd be right by my side for the build. Then when the day came, he stumbled in, said he had gone out camping with the boyscouts (he has a boy who is a scout), hadn't slept a wink, and was gonna go inside and sleep.
Didn't see him again until the entire bottom end was built.
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#21
by
libbydiesel
on 30 Oct, 2014 19:53
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The VW OUT bolts (and IN bolts) are 12mm. Are you sure that's 14mm? I'd double-check that measurement and if so, then I would add use it with 12v applied constantly.
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#22
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 30 Oct, 2014 20:21
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The VW OUT bolts (and IN bolts) are 12mm. Are you sure that's 14mm? I'd double-check that measurement and if so, then I would add use it with 12v applied constantly.
Yup. I bought an M14x1.5 banjo bolt specifically to fit it.
there probably exists an m14x1.5 out bolt for some other diesel engine, but so far what i find is websites that want to know what make model and year before they sell me fuel fittings.
I'll have to hit up a diesel specialty shop in the area in person, and bring a thread gauge. or just a nut i guess.
or, I can just see how it runs with or without power applied to the out solenoid and see how it performs.
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#23
by
vanbcguy
on 30 Oct, 2014 20:27
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The problem is the orifice in the OUT bolt is sized to match the pump configuration it goes with. I don't know if "any" bolt will work, especially given the difference in size.
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#24
by
libbydiesel
on 30 Oct, 2014 21:10
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I'm sure you could find a bushing.
FWIW, I think the thread you linked in your first post is the wrong one.
Is the bottom half of the pump VW?
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#25
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 30 Oct, 2014 21:48
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I'm sure you could find a bushing.
FWIW, I think the thread you linked in your first post is the wrong one.
Is the bottom half of the pump VW?
Yeah, i could find an M14 to M12 bushing probably. clearance vs. the injection lines becomes an issue after a few cm so it would have to be fairly close.
I got my pump from nwcali6. it's possible that we're not talking about the pump he was talking about in that thread, but our private messages give me the impression that we are.
I do seem to recall that the bottom half of the pump has VW/Audi stamps on it, yes.