Ok so I got some new goodies. I installed a front mount inter cooler and EGT as well as purchased a manual boost controller but I am not 100% on the controller install point flow directions instructions are for gas engine. I believe it goes on this section of hose. And so you know it is an upgraded Giles pump and t3 turbo. I was told the plunger mod was done but do not know what that is. Any info would be great. Also what is a safe limit of boost on a 1.6
Here is a pic of the setup
Ok so I got some new goodies. I installed a front mount inter cooler and EGT as well as purchased a manual boost controller but I am not 100% on the controller install point flow directions instructions are for gas engine.
wastegates work the same way on diesels as on gassers.
"safe" boost on diesels?
from what I've read here, a 1.6 will do 20-30 pounds just fine.
Safe boost has a lot to do with the particular turbo. What kills these engines is high exhaust manifold pressure and high EGTs.
A turbo working outside of its efficiency zone to produce 20 PSI could have exhaust pressures of 40+ PSI while a more optimized turbo could have exhaust pressures as low as 18 PSI. The inefficient turbo will be creating very hot air that the intercooler may not be able to keep up with, resulting in high intake temperatures which in turn increase exhaust temperature. So if you say take a K03 and run it at 20 PSI you'll probably have problems, while if you run a larger modern turbo at the same 20 PSI you'll be totally fine. The point is there is no blanket "safe" boost for a 1.6TD, there are safe combinations of turbo/intercooler/boost level.
The T3 you've got is usually good up to around 22 PSI without blowing itself up. The FMIC will help massively - the T3 is making a lot of hot air past around 14-15 PSI. You can expect turbo outlet temperatures in the 220F range at full boost so the more you can do to get that closer to ambient the better your engine will like it. A rule of thumb I've seen around on here is each 1 degree reduction of manifold inlet temperature will produce a 3 degree reduction in EGTs.
Remember too much air is no more helpful than too little - if you are pushing massive boost but don't have the fuel to actually use it you are running slower than you would at lower boost levels. The less restrictive you can be on the exhaust side while pushing enough air into the engine to use the fuel you need for the horsepower you want the better.
It has a 2.25 tt down pipe and not much past that. The original reason for the goodies was the previous owner put the combo together and assumed it was putting out 26 psi he never had a gage and it is quick so he assumed such was happening. First thing I did was put in a gage and bam 10psi as I suspected. However it pushes a lot of fuel "smoke" so I know it is begging for more boost but I wanted it to be safe for the engine. My EGT didn't go above 700*f even when pushing it kinda hard so I believe the final step is add boost my aim was 20-22 psi and I found a large boost leak when installing the cooler that it was pushing boost with so I am sure that is less strain on the turbo already. Did I miss anything?
If it is making lots of smoke at only 700F then chances are you need more timing advance, not more boost.
Not sure if you are aware but there is an overboost valve on your intake manifold that opens a tad past 10 PSI. It needs to be removed / disabled or you are going to DESTROY your turbo as it won't ever be able to reach the requested boost. It'll overspeed and eventually create shrapnel. When I had one I disabled it by stuffing a wine cork in the output hose from the 'overboost' valve to the intake duct - nothing fancy but quite effective.
The smoke is at much lower temps by 700 I am moving quite nicely and can't distinguish to much smoke. 700 is after full 9-10 boost up a hill for a bit in 4th-5th gear.
And the safety valve thing I do believe was removed and plugged is it not this pictured port.
