Rebuilt injectors not firing

[TylerDurden]

I'd verify injectors spraying first. Even if I had to use just one hardline to check each injector and each delivery valve.

Compression. Fuel. Timing.
If you have all three, the motor should run.

[sgnimj96]

          I pushed on with the other difficult trick,  Didn't bend anything but had remove all the line clamps.   Not fun

Still nothing coming out of the injectors after a few crankings,  I'll keep trying...   maybe my IP can't even pop 1800 psi

[sgnimj96]

    So I cranked this time with the injector holes open,   very fast...   and actually saw one of the external (used)  injectors begin firing.      This is good,  wonder why it didn't even puff with all the cranking i did with those injectors in the head.

After a short break (gotta let the start system rest) got all 4 firing,  Now to try the newer injectors

[air-cooled or diesel]

lines have to prime,

[sgnimj96]

     the lines must have stayed primed being upside down,   swapped in the newer ones and they all quickly fired into the baggies.   
 Engine spins over twice as fast without the compression resistance.     Looks like towing would really do the trick as long a the timing is correct.

[TylerDurden]

Good so far. 

Next I'd take #1 injector off the hardline and turn the engine by hand to see if a blob of fuel emerges from the hardline when the crank is near #1 cyl 15^o BTDC. (rough timing verify)

Power to cutoff solenoid, of course.

[air-cooled or diesel]

I thing I ll say your timing must be close, you didn't say that you changed the cam timing, only that you adjusted the belt tension, this does change timing some, I find it isn't normally a problem, it just doesn't run as it should be dead-on. a rather small adjustment, as I remember you said you did, shouldn't cause the timing to be too far out. and you have cranked it a lot, so no valves/cam out of time; that far. I d check it, with timing tools(you don't need pump lock), dial gauge. I ve in the past for one reason or another timed the cam by eye, with out the cam lock, it was easily close enough to run. not that im doing that again,,..
so you have real good compression from your reading you say; you now know you have good fuel delivery; timing is the next likely thing to check, only other things it could be is intake or exhaust restriction that somehow happened while you were working in the area, that you haven't seen yet,,
put her back together and check timing, and give her another try; glow 1st; good luck.

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

Looks like we're getting somewhere ...
 If you had the time, you could repeat the experiment, and leave the injectors primed for a bunch of hours to see if the whole setup looses prime causing the long cranking...

[sgnimj96]

  Not sure if this is relevant    

     Here's a weird thing,  as I'm hand turning it (using the wheel) and looking for a "blob" of diesel to come out the no.1 delivery valve....   it got to a spot in the rotation and quickly started losing prime in the pump.       Actually the little injector return line on the top of the pump was open and my fuel can was sitting about tank level.     Fuel just started gravity feeding out of the IP super fast;   I just picked my fuel can up a set it up higher and the air got pushed back out of the IP.   Normal?

   Even weirder,   as I rotate the engine by hand,  I hear this "tick" about 2 or 3 times every rotation.    Sounds sorta like an quick electric zap,  and the sound seems to come out of the front of the IP.    I can back it up and hear it again in just about the same spot but not exactly..   Alternator/water pump belt isn't on.   Used a 3/8 extension to my ear and it's loudest on the IP.    I've always used the wheel to rotate engine and never noticed this "noticeable" sound,  except for this project.   I disregarded it until this closer inspection.    (Feed pump?)

   I'm taking a nap

[TylerDurden]

     Here's a weird thing,  as I'm hand turning it (using the wheel) and looking for a "blob" of diesel to come out the no.1 delivery valve....   it got to a spot in the rotation and quickly started losing prime in the pump.       Actually the little injector return line on the top of the pump was open and my fuel can was sitting about tank level.     Fuel just started gravity feeding out of the IP super fast;   I just picked my fuel can up a set it up higher and the air got pushed back out of the IP.   Normal?

Yep, normal.

   

Even weirder,   as I rotate the engine by hand,  I hear this "tick" about 2 or 3 times every rotation.    Sounds sorta like an quick electric zap,  and the sound seems to come out of the front of the IP.    I can back it up and hear it again in just about the same spot but not exactly..   Alternator/water pump belt isn't on.   Used a 3/8 extension to my ear and it's loudest on the IP.    I've always used the wheel to rotate engine and never noticed this "noticeable" sound,  except for this project.   I disregarded it until this closer inspection.    (Feed pump?)

Probably the cam plate and rollers in the IP. Normal.


 

 I'm taking a nap
I'm taking a nap

Normal.

[sgnimj96]

 

[air-cooled or diesel]

   Even weirder,   as I rotate the engine by hand,  I hear this "tick" about 2 or 3 times every rotation.    Sounds sorta like an quick electric zap,  and the sound seems to come out of the front of the IP.    I can back it up and hear it again in just about the same spot but not exactly..   Alternator/water pump belt isn't on.   Used a 3/8 extension to my ear and it's loudest on the IP.    I've always used the wheel to rotate engine and never noticed this "noticeable" sound,  except for this project.   I disregarded it until this closer inspection.    (Feed pump?)

   I'm taking a nap

i have noticed a similar sound with the timing cover removed, the clip that sits near the ip it will snap against the alt fan as you rotate, possible.

[TylerDurden]

   Even weirder,   as I rotate the engine by hand,  I hear this "tick" about 2 or 3 times every rotation.    Sounds sorta like an quick electric zap,  and the sound seems to come out of the front of the IP.    I can back it up and hear it again in just about the same spot but not exactly..   Alternator/water pump belt isn't on.   Used a 3/8 extension to my ear and it's loudest on the IP.    I've always used the wheel to rotate engine and never noticed this "noticeable" sound,  except for this project.   I disregarded it until this closer inspection.    (Feed pump?)

   I'm taking a nap

i have noticed a similar sound with the timing cover removed, the clip that sits near the ip it will snap against the alt fan as you rotate, possible.

[sgnimj96]

Unfortunately, there is a delay.  Starter went into "click" mode;  did it a few times and got more and frequent until no start at all.      Found a continuity between: the solenoid terminal to the starter motor,   and ground.       So I'm waiting on a new solenoid in the mail.       Glad it happened now and not on the road.      Check out those hardware washers I used on a long shaft alternator to get my pulley lined up exact for the a/c delete. 

[sgnimj96]

          I took the pump off,       opened up the lid and rotated the drive shaft to check for that "click" noise it was making.        Looked like the roller assembly making the noise.     Then I noticed there was a lot of visible play in the drive shaft,  probably got worse when I had the belt over-tightened.      Not sure what that had to do with the injectors not firing.
    So I got an old 107A pump and resealed it,  looked nice and clean inside.    Then I saw that it ALSO had a lot of play in the drive shaft.      After a long ordeal of getting some bushings,  a proper sized reamer,  and some creative rigging - I got the 107A pump together.       With the newly timed pump the engine fired right off.     
    I'm sure the timing on the old pump was way off with the new injectors.    Maybe if i'd took the belt off and completely re-timed it the motor might have run,   but I wanted to find out why it was making that odd click sound when I rotated it.     Doing IP bushings was definitively an interesting job,   could have been better but it worked.
    The engine idles funny with resealed 107A pump, either too low or too high,  but it fires up every time so at least I know the injectors are working.      Some things I did that also helped were: checking and cleaning the starter,  replacing the starter solenoid,  adding more and better battery grounds,    installing a new electric fuel pump to prime the system quickly.