Author Topic: Timing (Read 3964 times)

rodpaslow · « **on:** May 06, 2014, 02:40:50 pm »

I have a MTDI pump that i ended up using a AAZ 1.9 housing as I didn't want to have to machine the 1Z mount or use the ALH pulley. However I think I'm regretting that now.

I'd prefer to set my pump at 1.40 to start as it shoulds like this is close to what I've read is about a good setting to start with.

Couple questions - are the AAZ and 1Z pump pulleys the same? I can't seem to set the pump with the bolt/lock in it anywhere near 1.40.

IF they are the same, would moving the pulley 1 cog forward be too far to adjust the pump back to 1.40? any other suggestions welcome!

CRSMP5 · « **Reply #1 on:** May 07, 2014, 10:26:36 am »

hates 130 vs 118... Hard to start, sounds like hammerin cummins at 130...

vanbcguy · « **Reply #2 on:** May 07, 2014, 10:49:29 am »

If you've got an 'unknown' M-TDI pump then really there isn't a "set" number to use, you are going to have to mess around a bit to find the "best" setting for your pump/injector combo. My M-TDI sounds like a PowerStroke if I time it to 1.40, I've backed down to 1.30 myself.

I really wouldn't worry about the pump lock that much, just get the timing to where you want it. The pump lock is really only helpful for putting the belt on initially.

rodpaslow · « **Reply #3 on:** May 07, 2014, 12:02:22 pm »

Sound like that's what to do. I have an unknown timing belt - just don't know how much miles it has on it, I'm going to get a new one and see if that helps setting everything.

I tried skipping a cog and I had timiing about 1.55-1.6 at one end of the setting (retarted as much as possible) and about 1.2 or so without skipping. I may just have to elongate the holes in the pump housing just slightly to get it to say 1.30.

I'll see if a new belt helps first.

vanbcguy · « **Reply #4 on:** May 07, 2014, 12:29:08 pm »

Reasons why I have now fallen in love with the ALH 2-piece timing pulley...

rodpaslow · « **Reply #5 on:** May 08, 2014, 11:10:23 am »

2 piece seems the way to go. I did a bit of grinding on the slots (maybe removed 1/32 or a bit more) and I have it set to 1.35. I'm going to see if I can get it going at that and adjust from there if needed.

rodpaslow · « **Reply #6 on:** May 13, 2014, 09:26:44 am »

I changed the belt to a new one and the timing was bang on 1.40 - so likely the old belt was stretched .05mm. I tried starting it and it fired right away, ran for a few seconds and stopped. Since this was changed to a 1.9 pump housing I wasn't too sure where the idle fueling should be. i think all I need to do is turn the fueling up a bit to get it to idle. The position of the throttle may need to be changed as well, not sure about that.

CRSMP5 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 13, 2014, 08:29:00 pm »

Get custom gear made from stock pulley.... Like old adj gasser cam gear

CRSMP5 · « **Reply #8 on:** May 13, 2014, 08:32:09 pm »

One ive been using long time... 3teeth of adj in slots

rodpaslow · « **Reply #9 on:** May 14, 2014, 11:49:50 am »

I have an old NA 90 golf that's going to scrap yard, I need to pull pump and a few things off it. I work at a machine shop- I will likely have them do something like that to make it easier to time.

rodpaslow · « **Reply #10 on:** May 14, 2014, 12:04:44 pm »

I adjusted the main fuel screw in about 2 turns and then adjusted the throttle arm a couple splines and it starts and runs probably slower than it should be maybe 700 rpm or so. I just need to adjust the idle screw slightly now. It's a bit of a pain to adjust on mine, seems the only way to adjust idle is to remove the injector lines so you can get at the screw because its on the back of the pump.

just for info my M-TDI pump is a 1.9 AAZ housing with 17mm shaft, vane section, drive link and spring;

timing roller plate, timing piston & cover, rollers, camplate, head (11mm) & governor assembly all from rover 300 tdi pump
and only delivery valves from etdi, pump set at 1.40mm.

CRSMP5 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 14, 2014, 05:22:59 pm »

1.6 gear middle hole wrong size..... I plan to get them made up for 1.6 though...so cake to set timming...

Bbob is interested in one after i texted him the above pic over a mo ago... I never too a build photo as i had others say it would not work... M
I used stainless washers, lock washers, nuce cap head screws, i did add loctite in the build to addittle security... But the lock washers did their jobs as you could watch them work... But if and fall out... Getta hurt things...

rodpaslow · « **Reply #12 on:** May 15, 2014, 12:10:10 pm »

I was thinking about trying to add mass something like the AHL pulley -I wonder if that would help vibration a bit as well, since this is just a 17mm pump drive.

CRSMP5 · « **Reply #13 on:** May 15, 2014, 01:35:06 pm »

Imo... My steel plate and bolts got it close to a "shaved" mk 4 style one... Too thick to fit under timming cover if not shaved down..... Id also try to keep all bolts close to dead nuts for balance purpose... Mine i checked on rc plane prop balancer...

Off balance would kill the bushing imo...

rodpaslow · « **Reply #14 on:** May 15, 2014, 05:02:17 pm »

I should mention one more thing I did to the pump. Since I read, an didn't see any purpose to the spring and lever that only moves a fraction of an inch with the throttle, I removed the spring and lever, and cut the lever arm that was inside the pump, cut so the shaft won't touch anything. Shaft is only left in the pump to seal it.

I report back once I have it running in the other car if I actually notice any problems without it.

Author Topic: Timing (Read 3964 times)

rodpaslow

Timing

CRSMP5

Re: Timing

vanbcguy

Re: Timing

rodpaslow

Re: Timing

vanbcguy

Re: Timing

rodpaslow

Re: Timing

rodpaslow

Re: Timing

CRSMP5

Re: Timing

CRSMP5

Re: Timing

rodpaslow

Re: Timing

rodpaslow

Re: Timing

CRSMP5

Re: Timing

rodpaslow

Re: Timing

CRSMP5

Re: Timing

rodpaslow

Re: Timing