AAZ disastrous after IP reseal and calibration.

[CRSMP5]

I do not see the pic you say u posted of the pump snout with hub removed.... See 1st page pics though...

You gotta know when #1 squirts fuel... Thats tdc of pump... If assembled properly, its between 10 and 11 o clock...  But if built wrong, 4 to 5 oclock... Till you see when #1 squirts you do not know..post pic... It will help

[Torchd]

Hi,

You need to first determine what port spills fuel at TDC1 - then go about setting the hub, To get it off you could have used 3 strong bolts, a thick metal disc with 4 holes with nut welded in the centre hole.

It would have made easy work of removing the hub without risk of the puller flying off or marking the hub, I recall translating a manual with google and it had something to say about aligning the rectangular cut with a tool to set the initial timing then installing the belt pulley - just as burn your money is saying here.

Thanks Zulfiqar,

any chance you can locate that manual?

[Torchd]

Never mind. I get it now Burn_Your_money..... Thanks!!!

[Torchd]

This is a classic case of building yourself a trap. It appears that you never tried just adjusting the pump for more advance. It also sounds like you never ascertained which port is getting fuel at TDC1.

If this is true, you have no idea where you were when you took the pump off and removed the hub.

You seem to be obsessing about what the dial indicator says and not how the car runs. Something is wrong but the more things that you screw with, the more complex the problem becomes.

If the pump is assembled 180* out all of your farting around is for naught. This could/can be cured by spinning the IP pulley 180* and resetting the timing. But you took it all apart so we won't know until its back together and doesn't work.

If something else is assembled incorrectly and .75mm is no longer the correct spec then you are still going to have to start advancing the IP until it runs correctly OR take it apart or back to the IP joint t be corrected. They do not inspire much confidence since they did not a) clock the hub correctly or at all, and/or b) assembled the IP incorrectly.

I think you would be far better served to listen to the people on this list who know how to troubleshoot these kinds of issues and actually do EXACTLY what they suggest and report back. Randomly jumping around like a 6 yo on Mountain Dew and changing this or that will seldom find what is wrong.

Toby that's a bit harsh but its okay!

Yes I never tried advancing the pump bit by bit because it does not sound right to me; I can't get things lined up 100% correctly this way yes I will be close... this is just approximation and I am in pursuit of perfection.

You are wrong here. I did mark the hub position against the shaft before I removed it in case the diesel service guy did put it together in the correct spot but when I saw the hub having two key slot marks in it then I wasn't sure.

I have mentioned how the car runs earlier on in this thread and I have also mentioned on the dial gauge. I don't think the hub was 180deg. off since the two key slot marks in the hub are at like 5 O' clock and 7-8 O clock.

I will now follow what burn_your_money has said here since now I feel I have sufficient information on this and have developed enough understanding on how I should go about it.

PS. I have not removed the IP from the car, I did not see the need to do so. Removed the hub from the shaft with the IP in its position.

 

[Torchd]

I do not see the pic you say u posted of the pump snout with hub removed.... See 1st page pics though...

You gotta know when #1 squirts fuel... Thats tdc of pump... If assembled properly, its between 10 and 11 o clock...  But if built wrong, 4 to 5 oclock... Till you see when #1 squirts you do not know..post pic... It will help

Here's the pic.

[vanbcguy]

You absolutely should have tried advancing things before all of this.

Perfection on these engines is more akin to tuning a guitar than punching numbers on a calculator. The timing has many factors that affect it - for your particular pump that has been touched by someone with unknown skills and who has performed unknown changes there is no book number. You need to adjust it till it runs right, much like 3/4 of a turn on a tuning peg of a guitar won't guarantee a perfect note.

Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk

[745 turbogreasel]

I'd say static timing the pump then timing it to the engine is a much  more logical and efficient choice in the long run, especially since it has been "touched by someone with unknown skills and who has performed unknown changes".
You want to undo their randomness, not stack more chaos on top of it.

[8v-of-fury!]

There really isn't much about these that can change where they get set-up for static timing. Even a heavily modified Giles pump is still timed to 0.95mm.

I have taken a stock aaz pump and put it s guts in to a 1.6 pump and run that pump on a 1.6 TD engine and later on a an aaz again. I ran them both at 1.00mm and they both loved it there for cold starts, mileage and performance.

This one is rather a conundrum. All your symptoms point to EXTREMELY retarded injection pump timing.

[vanbcguy]

If for some reason they swapped the cam plate while they had it open anything can happen. Given the shop doing the reseal seems to have torn in to the pump way more than necessary I figure anything is possible. But yeah it shouldn't change much. If they gritted up the plunger and it isn't sealing as well any more it will retard the timing too.

Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk

[Torchd]

        1st

        2nd

        3rd

        4th

A little slower than it used to be but almost there....its smoking a little more than it used to, set the timings at 0.9 and after two rotations it was 0.92 and then I reset it at 0.9 and after three rotations it was at 0.92 again.
The idle at start up is at 1000 but after running for 10 seconds it goes to 1100 whereas it used to be at 900 before the resealing.

The lighter key slot mark in the inner pulley is the correct one. I reckon because the torque applied on the 19mm center nut from factory must have been done using a torque wrench, and when i torqued it 2-3 days ago in the wrong position I didn't have a torque wrench so I just stopped where it felt right, therefore a dark key slot mark.

What do you guys think?!

[Torchd]

The slack in accelerator lever was not there before. I have highlighted it in the 3rd clip. I don't like it, why is it there now and how do I get rid of it?

[burn_your_money]

When you timed it was the cold start lever pushed all the way towards the front of the pump (right side of car)?

It seems smokey, and it's definitely idling too high.

In regards to the slack, did you adjust the accelerator cable by moving the clip on the cable at the pump end? Or do you mean that you can move the accelerator lever and the engine RPMs don't increase?

For no reason other than I'm curious, can you take a few pictures of the battery for me?

That looks like some beautiful country

I would try 0.85 and also 0.95 and maybe even 1.00 just to see where you car likes to run.

[Torchd]

Yes, cold start was pushed in all the way in; I ensured that.

I mean I move the accelerator lever and the rev's don't increase. What to do?

Okay I will take pics of the battery, its from my Land Rover only temporarily in the Golf. Its a local manufactured battery apparently the best one!

It is a beautiful country...I assure you that.

I would like to keep it at factory settings.... which is 0.9??? Some say its 0.8.... Whats correct? What do you reckon... does it sound alright? Is it advanced or still retard? Should I just start driving it as is?

[Torchd]

Can it be smokey because it is at 0.9mm and not 0.8... perhaps 0.8 is the factory setting?

[vanbcguy]

The revs not changing when you move the lever through the first bit of its travel imply that the lever wasn't aligned properly when it was attached to the pump again. It is a splined shaft, the orientation between the two parts is tricky.

Hey I just noticed the white two pin connector on your pump. Did you have anything attached to that before? That connector is almost certainly timing related, the later AAZ pumps had a variety of different emissions controls depending on the specific year and market the pump was from. It varies from a system that locks out the advance to computer assisted dynamic timing control.

Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk