AAZ disastrous after IP reseal and calibration.

[Torchd]

That is a 2  piece pulley.  Maybe there is a  ghost mark from the bolts in the  position  where it used to  be.  If he  put the other half together like it was before, lining up on those might get you really close.  I've  got within spec that way before.

He told me to play with the hub bu adjusting to different positions and left the 19mm center bolt loose for me to tighten. So he definitely didn't line the hub correctly.

There were ghost marks on the 13mm bolts on the pulley earlier but I tried a few different degs so can't tell which one is the original one.

[Torchd]

I presume that the pictures were taken before the IP was serviced? That thing is filthy. Plus, it seems the idle-bump control rod is missing from the cold-start lever.

As stated earlier, to validate gross internal timing, the engine should be slowly turned by hand to see if a blob of fuel emerges from #1 hardline before TDC.

I do not have cold start lever in my car so that side is of no use. This engine is from a slightly newer model MK3 golf, my original engine died so it was replaced, IP of original engine did not have cold start anything!

[Torchd]

p.s.

The timing directions in earlier post do not include the vital element of pre-loading the dial gauge to >2.5mm. That pre-load allows the gauge to follow the IP plunger back down the camplate to its lowest point, where the dial is reset to the closest "zero" (e.g. 1.0, 2.0). After which, the hub can be turned to give a reading of +.80 (e.g. 1.80, 2.80).

Yes it does miss the preload bit. But I did the preloading to 2mm while timing it.

[Torchd]

Hate phone.... I could look at it, but i think they screwed with thingd, like say hammer mod... Unless you can test properly e
All things they screw with they can screw it up... Why i had to learn the voodoo for my own knowledge... Seen your isdue a few times... Why i wanted good assistance on pump reseal... Got crapped on... So invested on edjumacation... I know what i can touch, not touch to keep self outta trouble for now... A expert not so smart... They touched one of those things...

Id be looking at hammer mod, fuel body type pressure stuff... Clogged out bolt...

You sure sound knowledgeable and as much as I would like to understand everything you have said but I probably got only 40% of it!

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

I followed these instructions.

Big source of error in instruction #4..

Be sure that when the initial zeroing of the gauge takes place, it is still touching the pump piston, and not the gauge itself 'bottomed out'.

Check this by slackening the gauge extension clamp slightly, and easing the gauge out a little, until it stops dropping, and then push back in for at least 2 revolutions of the dial, reclamp, and rezero outer  gauge bezel. Turn engine through 2 complete revolutions, to check still at zero. Now check reading @TDC...
EDIT: Ah again, 2 hours to cook/write is too long

[Gizmoman]

I followed these instructions.

Big source of error in instruction #4..

Be sure that when the initial zeroing of the gauge takes place, it is still touching the pump piston, and not the gauge itself 'bottomed out'.

Check this by slackening the gauge extension clamp slightly, and easing the gauge out a little, until it stops dropping, and then push back in for at least 2 revolutions of the dial, reclamp, and rezero outer  gauge bezel. Turn engine through 2 complete revolutions, to check still at zero. Now check reading @TDC...
EDIT: Ah again, 2 hours to cook/write is too long

Totally agree with above. I bought one of those "kits" with every imaginable rocker lever, multiple stem extenders, mounts, clamps tips, etc. I still ended up making a suitable rod as everything that came in the "kit" was too short, to long, or the wrong diameter to hit just the cam and not the access bore where it hangs up and totally messes up your readings.

[Torchd]

How to get the hub off? i have tried it with a puller and then hammering it a little at different angles but it doesn't budge?!!

[Torchd]

Okay so I got it off....

and here are the pics.

There are two woodruff key slot marks inside the hub so it was probably in the wrong position since the pump or the engine has never been touched before.

Where do I go from here?

[Torchd]

This one is much lighter than the other.

[theman53]

you could try to put the pump at TDC like CRSMP5 said, it should be in that 10 to 11 o'clock position. Then put the hub on in a neutral way that you would have pulley adjustment each way if needed. The slot marks shouldn't matter as long as you can get adjustment...unless I am missing something. I would try the darker of the two if you are worried. The only thing I would really worry about is if fuel is actually coming out when it is supposed to or is it 180 off. Do the tests mentioned to see when the fuel is coming out then put the pulley on accordingly.

[burn_your_money]

Good news, since you have a dial indicator, you don't need the 2 piece pulley setup. Turn the pump so that the key slot on the driveshaft points towards outlet A on the back of the pump  (cylinder #1). This should be around 11 o-clock. Because of the springs/cam in the pump you won't be able to lock the pump in the exact proper position.

Now that the shaft is close, look at the pulley you removed (inner pulley). The notch needs to be at the top so you can lock the pump in position. You do not need to get it exact, as long as it's close you will be fine. Do not tighten the inner pulley with the notch exactly at the top, it need to be BTDC because the shaft is not in the proper spot. Once you have it close, tighten the large nut down. You can use the mark inside the inner pulley to get it as close as you can to where it was. Again, this isn't critical to get exact since you have a dial indicator.

Now install the pump. Lock the pump using the pin, and set the belt so that it goes on the outer pulley in the center of the 3 bolts that hold the pulleys together. With the engine at TDC and the belt installed properly, remove the lock pin and loosen the 3 bolts that hold the pulleys together and then set the timing to 0.90mm or whatever you want to run it at. Tighten the 3 bolts and finish the rest of the timing procedure and all should be well.

[Zulfiqar]

Hi,

You need to first determine what port spills fuel at TDC1 - then go about setting the hub, To get it off you could have used 3 strong bolts, a thick metal disc with 4 holes with nut welded in the centre hole.

It would have made easy work of removing the hub without risk of the puller flying off or marking the hub, I recall translating a manual with google and it had something to say about aligning the rectangular cut with a tool to set the initial timing then installing the belt pulley - just as burn your money is saying here.

[Torchd]

Good news, since you have a dial indicator, you don't need the 2 piece pulley setup. Turn the pump so that the key slot on the driveshaft points towards outlet A on the back of the pump  (cylinder #1). This should be around 11 o-clock. Because of the springs/cam in the pump you won't be able to lock the pump in the exact proper position.

Now that the shaft is close, look at the pulley you removed (inner pulley). The notch needs to be at the top so you can lock the pump in position. You do not need to get it exact, as long as it's close you will be fine. Do not tighten the inner pulley with the notch exactly at the top, it need to be BTDC because the shaft is not in the proper spot. Once you have it close, tighten the large nut down. You can use the mark inside the inner pulley to get it as close as you can to where it was. Again, this isn't critical to get exact since you have a dial indicator.

Now install the pump. Lock the pump using the pin, and set the belt so that it goes on the outer pulley in the center of the 3 bolts that hold the pulleys together. With the engine at TDC and the belt installed properly, remove the lock pin and loosen the 3 bolts that hold the pulleys together and then set the timing to 0.90mm or whatever you want to run it at. Tighten the 3 bolts and finish the rest of the timing procedure and all should be well.

Right I get most of it, by notch you a referring to the 6mm locking slot on the inner pulley or the woodruff key slot on the shaft?

I would like it if you can please elaborate the 2nd paragraph here...

[Toby]

This is a classic case of building yourself a trap. It appears that you never tried just adjusting the pump for more advance. It also sounds like you never ascertained which port is getting fuel at TDC1.

If this is true, you have no idea where you were when you took the pump off and removed the hub.

You seem to be obsessing about what the dial indicator says and not how the car runs. Something is wrong but the more things that you screw with, the more complex the problem becomes.

If the pump is assembled 180* out all of your farting around is for naught. This could/can be cured by spinning the IP pulley 180* and resetting the timing. But you took it all apart so we won't know until its back together and doesn't work.

If something else is assembled incorrectly and .75mm is no longer the correct spec then you are still going to have to start advancing the IP until it runs correctly OR take it apart or back to the IP joint t be corrected. They do not inspire much confidence since they did not a) clock the hub correctly or at all, and/or b) assembled the IP incorrectly.

I think you would be far better served to listen to the people on this list who know how to troubleshoot these kinds of issues and actually do EXACTLY what they suggest and report back. Randomly jumping around like a 6 yo on Mountain Dew and changing this or that will seldom find what is wrong.

[burn_your_money]

Good news, since you have a dial indicator, you don't need the 2 piece pulley setup. Turn the pump so that the key slot on the driveshaft points towards outlet A on the back of the pump  (cylinder #1). This should be around 11 o-clock. Because of the springs/cam in the pump you won't be able to lock the pump in the exact proper position.

Now that the shaft is close, look at the pulley you removed (inner pulley). The notch needs to be at the top so you can lock the pump in position. You do not need to get it exact, as long as it's close you will be fine. Do not tighten the inner pulley with the notch exactly at the top, it need to be BTDC because the shaft is not in the proper spot. Once you have it close, tighten the large nut down. You can use the mark inside the inner pulley to get it as close as you can to where it was. Again, this isn't critical to get exact since you have a dial indicator.

Now install the pump. Lock the pump using the pin, and set the belt so that it goes on the outer pulley in the center of the 3 bolts that hold the pulleys together. With the engine at TDC and the belt installed properly, remove the lock pin and loosen the 3 bolts that hold the pulleys together and then set the timing to 0.90mm or whatever you want to run it at. Tighten the 3 bolts and finish the rest of the timing procedure and all should be well.

Right I get most of it, by notch you a referring to the 6mm locking slot on the inner pulley or the woodruff key slot on the shaft?

I would like it if you can please elaborate the 2nd paragraph here...

By notch in paragraph 2 I mean the locking slot.

Which part of paragraph 2 do you have questions about?