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Author Topic: 1.6 TD reliable performance build  (Read 33317 times)

Reply #75April 22, 2018, 01:09:04 pm

mcpook

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Re: 1.6 TD reliable performance build
« Reply #75 on: April 22, 2018, 01:09:04 pm »
Heat gun and putty knife removed the majority of the old soundproofing.

PB Blaster and putty knife removed the remainder.

Wire brushed and wiped down with acetone for two coats of POR 15 rust paint.


Ready for the CLD tiles and soundproofing.

1982 Rabbit Pickup 1.6 TD
1996 Passat B4V TDI

Reply #76May 02, 2018, 01:59:34 am

mcpook

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Re: 1.6 TD reliable performance build
« Reply #76 on: May 02, 2018, 01:59:34 am »
CLD Tiles installed.  Sound Deadener Showdown recommends 25% coverage. 

Building the mass loaded vinyl layer. 

I ended up with 4 sections--bulkhead, rear, driver/tunnel, and passenger. Closed cell foam was glued to the bottom MLV sections.  Seemed to work well gluing them flipped upside down and propped with boxes, buckets and towels to mimic their natural contours.  MLV/CCF layer installed.

The carpet form Newton was meant to be installed over the stock padding. 

Mine was not in good shape, so this product from Summit called Boom Mat under carpet lite seemed an adequate substitute. 

Carpet installed.

The scirocco 16V pedals went in really smoothly.  Brake booster was pulled from a '90 cabriolet and will accept a 22mm master cylinder.   

Interior mostly back together.  Carpet samples #8078 (large square) and #827 (small square) included for comparison to the Newton grey. 

On to the brakes. 


1982 Rabbit Pickup 1.6 TD
1996 Passat B4V TDI

Reply #77May 02, 2018, 11:15:22 am

Tmarkle

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Re: 1.6 TD reliable performance build
« Reply #77 on: May 02, 2018, 11:15:22 am »
That's looking great man! Can't wait to see the finished product.
1985 Jetta 1.6 NA, Project
1981 Rabbit 1.5 diesel SOLD
1980 Dasher, also a project
1993 Passat GLX VR6 (daily driver)
1992 Toyota Pickup, 350 V8 swapped
1997 Jetta TDI, engine donor for a diesel powered Toyota!
1986 Toyota Custom Cab

Reply #78May 06, 2018, 03:19:25 am

mcpook

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Re: 1.6 TD reliable performance build
« Reply #78 on: May 06, 2018, 03:19:25 am »
Started on the brakes today.  The brakes I ordered from Summit Racing came with carriers, calipers and pads, so I ended up returning the carriers I previously ordered from Parts Geek.  Centric Posi Quiet Loaded Brake Calipers 142.33036 (drivers) and 142.33035 (passenger)  The calipers looked nothing like the picture on the Summit website, but were refurbished Girling 54s. 

Loaded a drill with a wire wheel to prep for paint.  3 coats of black caliper paint.  While those dried I pulled some 256mm rotors from the local junkyard.  Hit the rotors with some 120 grit sandpaper to knock off the surface rust and clean them up. 

On to the brake lines and master cylinder.
1982 Rabbit Pickup 1.6 TD
1996 Passat B4V TDI

Reply #79May 06, 2018, 01:59:38 pm

ORCoaster

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Re: 1.6 TD reliable performance build
« Reply #79 on: May 06, 2018, 01:59:38 pm »
What! No bright red or yellow paint on those Calipers? 

How...   How


Normal.   Good job.

Reply #80May 07, 2018, 02:31:40 am

mcpook

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Re: 1.6 TD reliable performance build
« Reply #80 on: May 07, 2018, 02:31:40 am »
What! No bright red or yellow paint on those Calipers? 

How...   How


Normal.   Good job.

Yeah.  I figured the red paint would cut my stopping distance in half and put me at risk of whiplash. 

I worked on the brakes today.  New hardlines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve/fronts.  I bought the hard brake line kit from MK1 Autohaus.  It was easy to work with and bend.  There's definitely an art to making the lines look good.  Fell well short of that, but at least the nuts aren't rounded off.  The front and back brake hoses looked original and needed replaced.  That and a new master cylinder with different entry points led me to replace the hard lines. 

New passenger hard line.  Also installed some adhesive heat shield while I had the firewall clear.  No AC, so anything to help keep the cabin cool.

Bubble flare.

New brake hoses. 

Not sure why the original lines had the curly cues in them, but I mimicked them on the new lines by wrapping it around a 36mm deep well socket.  The pictured master cylinder is just for mock up and will be replaced this week with new.  Does the new master cylinder need bench bleeding?  Or can I install dry and bleed the entire system?

Ordered some mandrel bends for the exhaust and intercooler piping.  I still have to replace the rear brake hoses, install the clutch cable, but otherwise I think I'm ready to slide the engine in.   
1982 Rabbit Pickup 1.6 TD
1996 Passat B4V TDI

Reply #81May 07, 2018, 10:43:01 pm

ORCoaster

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Re: 1.6 TD reliable performance build
« Reply #81 on: May 07, 2018, 10:43:01 pm »
I like to bench bleed the MC just so I know that it has fluid going into all the lines like it should.  Once those rear lines are on it takes awhile to know if fluid is going to the brake or not.  Many pedal pushes for the wife for me.  I don't have a Mighty Vac to assist in that process.


Reply #82May 08, 2018, 01:15:53 pm

srgtlord

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Re: 1.6 TD reliable performance build
« Reply #82 on: May 08, 2018, 01:15:53 pm »
Not to hijack the thread but if it is of any interest I had a friend of mine cobble together what is essentially an electric mity-vac. It uses the motor from an electric airpump with 2 lines going to a sealed mason jar, one being the line to the brakes and the other the line to the air pump. I can bleed the brakes by myself in less than 10 minutes. I can shoot some pictures of it if anyone is interested

Reply #83May 08, 2018, 10:50:48 pm

ORCoaster

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Re: 1.6 TD reliable performance build
« Reply #83 on: May 08, 2018, 10:50:48 pm »
and then you use the Mason jar for a celebration drink right?

Reply #84May 20, 2018, 04:19:40 pm

mcpook

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Re: 1.6 TD reliable performance build
« Reply #84 on: May 20, 2018, 04:19:40 pm »
I can shoot some pictures of it if anyone is interested

I'm interested in pics of the vac pump mason bleeder.  Details on what pump you used would be great too.

I almost finished the brake system.  Replaced the rear brake lines and installed the new bench bled master cylinder and reservoir. 

Installed the engine by sliding it in the engine bay and lifting from below.  Seemed to work ok. 

Noticed a couple fitment issues that will likely need some modification.  Turbo to air intake is kinda tight near the fuel lines and the passenger front brake line.  Brake line should bend down out of way pretty easy, but those fuel lines will need to be relocated methinks. 

The alternator mount bolt circled in red threads through both lobes of the alternator and likely will hit the subframe when I try to remove it.  I'll likely just deal with a re-engineering the next time it needs removed.

The axle may clear the oil return line, but it looks close.  Axle installation day will shed more light on that.

The most troubling thing I discovered was a pile of aluminum shavings by the lower crank cover.  There were more shavings, but I wiped the easily accessible away before photo documenting.  I am not sure what caused those shavings but there was definitely some binding I discovered maybe 6 months ago when I tried to manually turn over the engine that I attributed to letting the engine sit too long and perhaps developing rust in the cylinders.  Now it's apparent that it was not rusty cylinders causing a difficult revolution, but binding from somewhere around the crank seal plate.  The plate may have been from a later model gasser that I assumed  would match up.  Something obviously didn't clear--although after pushing the crank to and fro for an hour, it spins free now.  Anyone encounter a similar issue?  I will pull the lower cover to investigate further where those shavings are originating and whether it merits addressing. 


Engine is installed though and that feels like a big milestone.  Hooking up and adjusting shift linkage, drive train, clutch, wiring and cooling system will resume after Memorial Day.




1982 Rabbit Pickup 1.6 TD
1996 Passat B4V TDI

Reply #85May 20, 2018, 11:09:20 pm

ORCoaster

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Re: 1.6 TD reliable performance build
« Reply #85 on: May 20, 2018, 11:09:20 pm »
To route the fuel lines forward could you not just run them with a 90 degree bend along the frame support and get them to come up in front of the passenger strut housing?  Then do the filter in the space there to the fender.  I am looking at something like that for my Caddy intake as well.  Filter has to move to make room for big rubber hose.  And the air filter.   

Reply #86November 18, 2018, 07:46:50 pm

mcpook

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Re: 1.6 TD reliable performance build
« Reply #86 on: November 18, 2018, 07:46:50 pm »
Been awhile since I posted.  Got the truck back from the fabricator who welded up aluminum intercooler tubing, intake and fabbed a 2.5" stainless downpipe. 



Figured out that the stock ground location on the transmission mount is shoddy, so grounded directly yo the trasnsmission.  Starter now turns over easily. 
2 problems that I am trying to troubleshoot. 
First is fueling.  I primed the fuel filter by removing the small screw atop the fuel filter housing and topping off with ATF.  Primed the injector pump by removing the inlet banjo bolt and topping with ATF.  No fire and no visual verification of fuel being drawn through the clear inlet fuel line.  Any ideas/tricks to prime the fuel system?
The second is a bit more baffling and worrisome.  I filled up the coolant and slowly been tracking down the leaks and tightening down clamps to fix.  Thought I had them all addressed, when I noticed another pool on the garage floor coming from the turbo/passenger side. 

It appears that the turbo is leaking coolant.  I don't think this is supposed to be a water cooled turbo. 

You can see the rust on the mild steel spacer between the turbo and the exhaust manifold and water dripping from the waste gate.  Any ideas on this one?  I'm really stumped as to where the leak could be coming from and how to fix it.  There is no coolant visible above the intake manifold, so I don't think its the freeze plugs in the head.  Thanks guys.  I keep thinking this thing is close to roaring to life. 
1982 Rabbit Pickup 1.6 TD
1996 Passat B4V TDI

Reply #87November 19, 2018, 11:38:59 pm

ORCoaster

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Re: 1.6 TD reliable performance build
« Reply #87 on: November 19, 2018, 11:38:59 pm »
I remove the OUT Bolt and fill it to as high as I can.  That gets more fuel into the pump as it is higher than the inlet bolt you used.  You can draw fuel into the pump by putting a vacuum on the line going back to the fuel tank and that will generally get you most all the air out of the IP.  If you still have no draw then I would suspect the vanes are stuck inside the pump and not doing their job.

As for the coolant leak, check the freeze plugs on the back of the block.  Weeping down to the turbo from them I suspect.


Reply #88November 25, 2018, 05:53:26 pm

mcpook

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Re: 1.6 TD reliable performance build
« Reply #88 on: November 25, 2018, 05:53:26 pm »
Still not sure on the coolant leak cause, but will continue to keep an eye on puddles neath the truck and coolant levels. 

Got the injector pump primed.  Fired up, but smokey.  Sounds better and less smoke when cold start pulled, so will adjust the timing before test drive and break in.  Right now I have it timed to .95.  Will move it to 1.00 and see how it sounds/smokes.  I have read that for break-in, it's best to drive at 75% of full load on the engine.  How do you effectively "run the engine at 75% of full load" on the road?  I was planning to drive it around the hilly/mountainous terrain near my house.  And vary the RPMs and go pedal during the break in.  I have some cement pavers that I could put in the bed, but I imagine that driving the engine under load means something different.  What is an effective way to run it 75% of full load?  Thanks.
1982 Rabbit Pickup 1.6 TD
1996 Passat B4V TDI

Reply #89November 25, 2018, 06:25:54 pm

ORCoaster

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Re: 1.6 TD reliable performance build
« Reply #89 on: November 25, 2018, 06:25:54 pm »
What you plan to do with the hilly drive will do the best job.  If you want bricks for passengers, conversation might be lacking, but I wouldn't overdo it.  It would simulate two peoples weight and load.  75% load could be thought of as 3/4 pedal travel.  Just take it easy on it for a while, I know you want to know the full potential but that will come soon enough.

 

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