1.6 TD reliable performance build - page 4 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
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#45 by CRSMP5 on 16 Apr, 2014 15:09
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They make 2 kinds vs the 4 originally... So get most $$$ one you can... Cheap ones will not last
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#46 by mcpook on 15 Nov, 2014 18:26
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Summer's over and I am back in the garage. The engine mounts are pressed. Haven't ordered the front mount yet.
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#47 by TimpanogosSlim on 15 Nov, 2014 18:32
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Looking good!
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#48 by mcpook on 15 Nov, 2014 19:35
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The alternator I pulled from an MK2 diesel jetta didn't quite fit as I'd expected. The alternator tabs/body prevented it from retracting into the mount recess.
The belt pulley didn't line up with the water pump and crank pulleys either.
I found a new alternator from a 92 passat 16v that I pulled, hoping for a better fit. It has ear mounting tabs which are a bit unusual and a W terminal for which I have future plans. I mocked it up to an old alt bracket and adapted an mk2 toothed adjuster for it.
It also lined up a bit closer to the water pump and crank pulleys, but was still about 5mm off.
The local alternator shop swapped around the spacers and it's pretty close now. Not perfect, but should work.
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#49 by TimpanogosSlim on 15 Nov, 2014 20:41
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yup, exactly why i decided to get a reman of the same 65A alt rather than attempt an upgrade just now . . .
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#50 by mcpook on 24 Nov, 2014 18:56
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Alternator is rated for 90amp, and seems to tuck up tight to the block to hopefully allow room for a longer radiator and dual fan assembly. Still have doubts as to whether the alternator will clear the dual fan housing.
Rummaging through the brackets I got back from the powdercoater, I found two which remain a mystery as to their application. The one on the left appears to be a gasser accelerator cable bracket, that got mixed in with the diesel parts. The one one the right has me stumped. Can anyone identify these or care to weigh in on their application? Thanks.
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#51 by vanbcguy on 24 Nov, 2014 20:10
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I think the one on the right might have been bolted to the bottom of the injection pump and held the cruise control diaphragm. Total guess though.
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#52 by EcoTX on 24 Nov, 2014 21:33
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That bracket is the bracket that holds the turbo drain line to the block...
Hotlinked picture from: http://www.tomsebooks.com/newpoweroldcaddy.htm
I think the one on the right might have been bolted to the bottom of the injection pump and held the cruise control diaphragm. Total guess though.
That bracket is a huge, curvy thing...looks like this
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#53 by srgtlord on 24 Nov, 2014 21:51
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Keep an eye on that v belt once you start driving. It looks like you might have the wrong offset waterpump pulley...
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#54 by mcpook on 24 Nov, 2014 22:44
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That bracket is the bracket that holds the turbo drain line to the block...
Winner. Thanks.Keep an eye on that v belt once you start driving. It looks like you might have the wrong offset waterpump pulley...
Thanks for the heads up. I shimmed the waterpump pulley a bit to try to get it to align better with the crank pulley. It's still slightly off, but thought it close enough. You think it may cause problems? I may have another spare pulley to hack up and create a shim and see if it gets it closer. The alt pulley is the bigger misalignment offender, but not too concerned as I may need to address alt pulley size to fine tune RPM/tach. Still need to do the diesel cluster tach mod. Have a spare diesel cluster and a cracked screen GTI tach cluster as donors. I assume that I could transfer the working diesel/tach guts to a flawless GTI cluster shell once the marriage is successful. -
#55 by mcpook on 07 Dec, 2014 23:05
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Using a round front clip to mock up the radiator/intercooler/oil cooler fit. First step was adding additional holes from a scrap clip to accommodate the 675mm radiator pins.
Next is figuring out the intercooler position, fitting it and mounting it. The pipe run length looks equivalent no matter which side chosen to plumb pipes. I'm electing to run both intercooler pipes on the driver's side as I think I'll avoid access conflicts and have a cleaner look. The intercooler needs some modification to the end tanks to make it work. Both pipes and the mounting tabs need cut and repositioned to work. Starting to question whether this intercooler is right choice.
The front clip middle support also needs cut and modified on one side to make enough clearance.
Oil cooler lines will run through the front clip and under the radiator.
Questions for the group:
Anyone have any install pics of MK1 starion/conquest intercooler install or experience from installing/modifying? I've searched and not found anything, despite reading about the intercooler quite a bit.
Since the intercooler tanks need modifying, should I upsize the existing inlet/outlet pipes from ~1 3/4" to 2"? I assume since the existing pipes are factory sized to the intercooler, they are big enough to not cause restriction. However, most intercoolers utilize at least 2" inlet/outlets. I don't want to needlessly upsize and cause lag though. Turbo pushing it is a T3 from a D24 Volvo Turbo Diesel.
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#56 by RabbitJockey on 08 Dec, 2014 13:55
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i'd go to the 2" outlets, personally though i'd probably ditch the starion intercooler and find one on ebay that is the exhaust size you would need, they're cheap on there, and then you can get exactly what fits.
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#57 by mcpook on 24 Dec, 2016 22:52
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Merry Christmas everyone. About to head out to midnight mass, but thought I'd resurrect this post, since I am spending more time in the garage on the build. Spent the day in the garage getting reacquainted with where I left off nearly two!!! years ago. Measured hose length to get the oil cooler hoses, turbo oil feed and drain hoses fabricated.
Polished up the VW logo on the valve cover. Started with 120 grit and progressed to 1000 wet sand before finishing off with Mother's.
Intercooler and piping routing was on my mind quite a bit today. The current intake manifold has the entry on the driver's side. Since the turbo is clocked, the air filter intake and turbo piping will also be on the driver's side.
This will result in all the piping on the drivers side and require a custom intercooler to be fabricated to accommodate that configuration (same side inlet/outlet). Cons could include some piping clutter and pricey custom intercooler.
Alternatively, I could change out the intake manifold for one that enters on the passenger side to accommodate a cheapo ebay intercooler. I'd have to plug some ports and weld a 1/6" NPT bung and then get it coated again. Cons are redoing some manifold work and pricey coating. Here's the candidate manifold.
Doubt whether one manifold would perform noticeably better than the other. Coated one currently installed is off of an 85 cabriolet. Really comes down to preference on piping routing and intercooler.
Think I'm leaning custom intercooler/existing manifold with understanding that the wiper fluid canister should be relocated to the passenger side to free up room for air filter/cold intake. maybe battery too. Should double check to make sure the pipes will clear the frame/radiator as it is definitely tighter squeeze on drivers side. Drivers side would give the shortest piping length and less bends.
Thoughts on manifold and intercooler dilemma?
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#58 by theman53 on 26 Dec, 2016 19:44
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No idea, but I ran my intake over top of the other intake all on the passenger side
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#59 by mcpook on 12 Feb, 2017 13:24
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After fabricating and installing the oil drain tube, I discovered that the clocked turbo alignment (with the exhaust to the passenger side) is not jiving with the drivetrain.
So, had to figure out another solution. Here's what I came up with. ARP turbo stud kit 400-8009 are just long enough to accommodate a 1/2" spacer at the exhaust manifold, which allowed the unclocked turbo to just clear the intake manifold. Oil drain tube should not interfere now with the passenger axel.
Does it clear the firewall though??? I hope
. Measurements point to it clearing, but we'll find out for real when I drop it in the engine bay. By worst fear is some component not working with the firewall, shift rods, steering or axel.
Meanwhile:
Turbo oil feed tube is being fabbed. Ordered a cheapo ebay intercooler. Need to order the coolant hoses now and get a better dial indicator to set the timing, but will have to remove the engine from the stand and bolt on the flywheel and clutch. Want to replace some transmission seals while I have that out. Anyone know which seals should be replaced? Hate to have the tranny leaking oil.