1.6 TD reliable performance build

[mcpook]

Took apart the oil cooler sandwich plate to test the t-stat.  The t-stat opened at the boiling point in a small can of water.  That's right on as it's marked as 95* on the case.  Drilled the holes a bit bigger, deburred, cleaned and reassembled.  Still need to order a new gasket for it, but otherwise another part is ready for install when I get the block back. 

Thinking next about flywheel, clutch and pressure plate.  I have a 200mm set that I can use, but I'm thinking a 210mm would probably be wise with this build.  Options include:
1) Grab one off an '83 GTI at the local junkyard and mark TDC. 
2) Talk to a machine shop about transforming the existing 200mm to a 210mm.  I assume this is possible, but the bolt holes look like they may interfere.  Has anyone done this?
3) Seek out an AAZ flywheel.  Two-pin?

What would yinz do?  I'm leaning toward option 1. 

Pressure plate and clutch plans were for 16v PP and 24 spline 210mm clutch from Autohaus.  Or is a kit from South Bend or similar worth considering?  I am obviously not a clutch expert and would appreciate any advice the forum has.

Thanks     

[CrazyAndy]

It is tough to weld cast, I would just bolt it together and maybe run a gasket on the turbo and exhaust mani side. I think crazy andy used 3/8" but 1/2" would work too right in between the turbo and mani and it shouldn't get you into trouble on the firewall at all.

To answer the concern at hand, I used a 3/8" exhaust flange water jet cut from mild steel, ran gaskets on each side, adn used longer studs.  It fits in a MK1 with plenty of room between it and the firewall.

http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/flanges-gaskets-36/header-flanges-194/volkswagen-209/volkswagen-8v-one-piece-header-flange-1-2-mild-steel-2358.html

Good choice on the Volvo oil cooler; I had to go aftermarket since there are no Volvos of that vintage in the local yards.

[mcpook]

It is tough to weld cast, I would just bolt it together and maybe run a gasket on the turbo and exhaust mani side. I think crazy andy used 3/8" but 1/2" would work too right in between the turbo and mani and it shouldn't get you into trouble on the firewall at all.

To answer the concern at hand, I used a 3/8" exhaust flange water jet cut from mild steel, ran gaskets on each side, adn used longer studs.  It fits in a MK1 with plenty of room between it and the firewall.

http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/flanges-gaskets-36/header-flanges-194/volkswagen-209/volkswagen-8v-one-piece-header-flange-1-2-mild-steel-2358.html

Good choice on the Volvo oil cooler; I had to go aftermarket since there are no Volvos of that vintage in the local yards.

Thanks.  I was planning on ordering a 1/2" turbo inlet flange from them to gain the clearance as theman53 suggested and running two gaskets and longer bolts.  Dragging my feet with that order though, as I'm playing with the idea of fabbing a tubular exhaust mani ala the darkside developments offerings.  It's a shame that Street Toys is no longer around.  I dreamed of that cast iron ram-horn style mani they offered.  That would be bulletproof and address those durability and cracking concerns I have with running a tubular on a diesel.  Think I just talked myself into going with the spacer and calling it good.     

[mcpook]

Got my block back from my machinist.  He said he removed .001" at 1 inch down from the deck and about .0015" further down the cylinder as it had a taper to it, which was right in line with Toby's observations in his post. The piston ring end gaps are still within spec with the largest at .020" and the tightest at .014".  I assembled pistons, rings and connecting rods.  Pistons balanced to within .25 grams and assembled units to within 1.25 grams.

More junkyard goodies.  210mm flywheel from an '83 GTI and an intercooler from an '89 Chrysler Conquest.
The flywheel surface looked to be in good shape according to my machinist.  He recommended roughening up the surface a bit with 120 grit. I didn't take a lot off, but rather just tried to roughen evenly across the entire surface.   

My son is flying in tomorrow night to spend his spring break with me.  I'm excited to have him here and I think he's excited to learn.  He's 14 and right at that age where he is really interested in cars and whatever I can teach him, so we should have some fun and make good progress this week.   

[mcpook]

Bottom end together for the most part.  Ran into an issue with the oil control piston ring escaping the land and going into the cylinder all wonky.  Luckily it was pretty obvious as the piston felt stuck.  Replaced the faulty ring and achieved success on the second attempt.  All pistons rotate smoothly now. 

Also kept snapping off the front crankshaft oil seal flange bolts.  Snapped two of the smaller ones when I tried torquing them to 15 foot pounds.  Still not sure what's going on there?  Ran down to the junkyard and salvaged some bolts for the rear seal.  We'll see if that one goes easier. 

[vanbcguy]

Also kept snapping off the front crankshaft oil seal flange bolts.  Snapped two of the smaller ones when I tried torquing them to 15 foot pounds.  Still not sure what's going on there?  Ran down to the junkyard and salvaged some bolts for the rear seal.  We'll see if that one goes easier. 

Those bolts don't go to 15 ft-lbs, I don't recall the spec off hand but it is more like 7 ft-lbs.  If I recall correctly there is one or two larger bolts on the flange, those have a higher torque spec (around 15 ft-lbs) but the others are all much less.

I did EXACTLY the same thing assembling my TDI a few weeks ago.  Replaced them with new bolts from my FLAPS after we noticed it didn't feel right torquing up.

[Gizmoman]

MMMMMMMMMM, studs


Wish I had done that just for the peace of mind.

Looking good.

[TimpanogosSlim]

hm, prothe pistons?

[mcpook]

Also kept snapping off the front crankshaft oil seal flange bolts.  Snapped two of the smaller ones when I tried torquing them to 15 foot pounds.  Still not sure what's going on there?  Ran down to the junkyard and salvaged some bolts for the rear seal.  We'll see if that one goes easier.  

Those bolts don't go to 15 ft-lbs, I don't recall the spec off hand but it is more like 7 ft-lbs.  If I recall correctly there is one or two larger bolts on the flange, those have a higher torque spec (around 15 ft-lbs) but the others are all much less.

I did EXACTLY the same thing assembling my TDI a few weeks ago.  Replaced them with new bolts from my FLAPS after we noticed it didn't feel right torquing up.

The bentley does say the crankshaft oil seal carriers are at 15, but I guess that's for the bigger bolt.  The oil pan bolts were also at 15 and they are the same size bolt, so common sense was overruled.  

Got the bottom end completely together.  Had to remove the oil pump pickup tube temporarily to install the rubber gasket/baffle. But smooth after that.  

Head is on.  AAZ gasket.  ARP head studs.  Hylomar block and head and both sides of the gasket.  

Have to order the engine mounts and press those in, so the build will crawl til that's accomplished.  

Question regarding the oil level tube:  I have what looks like an old aluminum washer on the tube.  Is this really the correct seal?  I found nothing in the engine seal kit that looks like a solution.  Also, when installed, the hump is nowhere near the bottom--though it is in the recess.  Normal?  Thanks.

[TylerDurden]

Washer on the dipstick tube is normal, it retains an oring in the bore.

Excellent pix, by the way.

[TimpanogosSlim]

hey, what fittings did you use for the valve cover breather?

[mcpook]

Washer on the dipstick tube is normal, it retains an oring in the bore.

Excellent pix, by the way.

Sounds like I am missing an o ring then.  Thanks about the pix.  Glad I figured out the whole pic posting thing.  Opening the attachments was less than ideal.
 

hm, prothe pistons?

Pistons are Kolbenschmidt from Autohaus. 

hey, what fittings did you use for the valve cover breather?

Machinist welded a 1/2" FPT bung to the valve cover.  Threaded in a 90* hose barb to 1/2" MPT 1/2" ID stainless fitting off of ebay.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/200508042570?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649  I probably could have just used the existing rubber valve cover grommet and 90*ed and necked it down from there, but I thought the stainless barbs were easier and cleaner.   

The lower return was welded onto the block off plate. 

The tee barb was also off ebay and is apparently a coke dispenser fitting.  Coke Part# 16177  http://www.ebay.com/itm/151182655577?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

 

[theman53]

I did similar, but I made a new plate and tapped it for the pipe fitting. If you have a leak around that area, don't immediately blame the gasket. Welds are sometimes hard to get leak proof without grinding the stops and starts...it doesn't look like he did, but if he welded both sides you should be fine.

[mcpook]

I did similar, but I made a new plate and tapped it for the pipe fitting. If you have a leak around that area, don't immediately blame the gasket. Welds are sometimes hard to get leak proof without grinding the stops and starts...it doesn't look like he did, but if he welded both sides you should be fine.

Yeah I probably got the idea from reading through your build threads.  I'll run a continuous bead on the inside edge to combat oil leaks.

It took me a while to commit to motor mounts, but after some research I came up with the following plan:

• Front--Black Forest Stage one.
  
• Passenger side--1992 Cabby part number 171199214G (Meyle) from Autohaus (upside down man)
• Drivers side--1984 turbo diesel part number 171199214H (Meyle)
• Rear--1984 Turbo Diesel part number 175399151B (RPM)

Sound sufficient?  However, I ordered the wrong drivers mount and got part #171199214D as pictured below.  Should I roll with it?  If so, which way is up? 

Next is getting them pressed to the brackets.   

[theman53]

CRSMP5 is the guy to ask on all those mounts.