Built 1Y or Frankenengine? (and assorted other questions)

[MJF]

1Y and 1,6 con rod bearings are narrower than AAZ or TDI bearings. Narrower bearings will do fine with your power goals, but if you want to be extra sure, TDI bearings are the best Needs a little fitting to rods.

[RabbitJockey]

He has said that do to the engine being Forced Induction he is not going to worry about chamber velocity much if at all, does this sound right?

i don't think so, maybe someone else could chime in tho.

[theman53]

Yeah, my head isn't huge ported. Yes there was a ton of stuff taken out, but much more could be done for more flow in the upper RPM. That being said, the reason I didn't do that is I think that velocity is THE most important part of the flow equation...obviously you wouldn't want to choke the runners down to get velocity over stock flow, but all things equal the greater the velocity the better it will run over the entire rpm range. Forced induction does not change the way air bounces off the immovable parts in the head, so N/A or turbo or super charged will benefit from velocity. The idea is no matter what engine you want the cylinder to be filling up with as much intake air as possible, so *in diesel apps* you can add more fuel for more power. If the velocity is great enough you can continue to fill a cylinder even when the piston starts up from BDC while the intake valve starts to close. The more cool air the more room for fuel to burn and not get exceedingly hot EGT.

[Alcaid]

My AAZ head flows 150CFM @ 11.2mm lift, the lift on the custom cam I will be running. Off course flow tested on the actual 76.5mm bore that my 1.6TD block has. Slightly bigger valves than stock, bigger was not possible on 1.9 head as the valve are spaced further apart vs. the 1.6 head so got valve shrouding due to valve edge being to close to cylinder wall.

A stock PD130 TDI head @ stock valve lift flows 110 CFM for reference

[RabbitJockey]

Yeah, my head isn't huge ported. Yes there was a ton of stuff taken out, but much more could be done for more flow in the upper RPM. That being said, the reason I didn't do that is I think that velocity is THE most important part of the flow equation...obviously you wouldn't want to choke the runners down to get velocity over stock flow, but all things equal the greater the velocity the better it will run over the entire rpm range. Forced induction does not change the way air bounces off the immovable parts in the head, so N/A or turbo or super charged will benefit from velocity. The idea is no matter what engine you want the cylinder to be filling up with as much intake air as possible, so *in diesel apps* you can add more fuel for more power. If the velocity is great enough you can continue to fill a cylinder even when the piston starts up from BDC while the intake valve starts to close. The more cool air the more room for fuel to burn and not get exceedingly hot EGT.

thats what i was thinking, regardless of whether its pressurized or not there is always a benefit to the velocity, air is always flowing from a high pressure zone to a lower pressure zone... with boost theres a larger differential but still air flows the same way.

[Formerfreeagent]

Alright  so now you guys have me concerned. Do you think I should be looking for a different machine shop? I had a hell of a time finding this guy. But if he doesn't know what he is talking about I don't want to hand him a carbide bit and tell him to go nuts with my head. 

I will begin the search I just don't even know where to look. If I trusted it in the post I might be willing to ship it to somebody. I guess I'll make some calls on my lunch break this is now the only thing holding me back. Once I find somebody I trust I can finally ship it off. I got it up on the stand this weekend and started taking it apart.

What do you guys recommend coating surfaces in while the block is exposed? (Buddy suggested just rubbing everything with a light coat of 50w....

Does anybody know about the bearing issue mentioned earlier?

[bajacalal]

What do you guys recommend coating surfaces in while the block is exposed? (Buddy suggested just rubbing everything with a light coat of 50w....

This http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/612 and it's relatively easy to find.

[Formerfreeagent]

Alright, So some progress,

1Y is stripped, and the head is in the best shape of any IDI engine I have seen yet with only 2 small hairline cracks between the valves on cylinders 1 and 4. The block has some minor polishing in the cylinders, and there is one very light scar in cylinder 1 but I am confident that it can be removed by an Align hone without the need to overbore.

LPS3 is on order, turbo has been sourced!

That being said, does anybody have definitive links to the differences between the AAZ and the 1Y as far as piston rings, main and rod bearings, things of the like? And WHERE ON EARTH are the Canadians purchasing replacement parts for these engines? Everything I can find is for the TDi's and AAZ's only.

[Formerfreeagent]

Hey guys....


I'm at a dead stop until I can properly source parts for this lump. Is there an online ETKA resource where I can check part numbers or something? I have tried every online retailer of parts I have ever purchased from and I cannot even find a listing for the engine. The part listings go from 1.6td to 1.9TDi. Thread's had 100+ views with ZERO replies since my last post I know some of you guys have bought parts for a 1Y or AAZ. Just looking to know where.

I'll try to post PICs when I get home of the engine and the truck, hopefully liven up the thread a bit.

[theman53]

All from what I have heard, but the 1Y is basically an aaz, but it may have taller connecting rods. If it is the one that does, then the pistons would be different. All the rest of the parts should interchange, save the width of the con rod bearings as MJF already stated above.

[vanbcguy]

Is there an online ETKA resource where I can check part numbers or something? I have tried every online retailer of parts I have ever purchased from and I cannot even find a listing for the engine.

Partsbase.org or vagcat.com are both decent.  I believe the 1Y was sold in the UK market if that helps.

[Formerfreeagent]

HOLY SH**!!! You too are life savers. Looks like I can find everything I need on my normal retailers sites since Volkswagen decided that they can just reuse all the parts on other cars! haha....

I know there was mention of the rod bearings being questionable earlier up. The part number appears to be the same for 16v petrol lumps and on the ETKA listings shows them as being used in the R32 as well.  So I am hoping they should be plenty strong for the build. I love cheap parts!

Now just to locate a IP since I just got the call that the pump shaft in mine is sheered and even the local shop wants $900 in parts! not counting labor.

Oh well.... there goes my budget

Thanks again guys! Pics tonight as promised.

[Formerfreeagent]

Well the head is back from machine, the block is honed, pistons in and studs installed.

I ordered a frozenboost AWIC setup and and a HUGE oil cooler I've begun reassembly which is a huge feet and I'm still SSSSOOOO FAR BEHIND. Car has to be ready in 10.5 days to take a road trip 500 miles away! 

I've come across a few things I would like to ask about.

1) WHY CAN'T I UPLOAD PICTURES!?

2) The 1Y I am using is the non-turbo version of the AAZ they use the same block casting and everything. I remember seeing a thread a LONG time ago about the turbo drain line on the 1Y block. The boss is there and it appears that maybe its filled with plug? When looking from the crank side of the block (with the oil pan off) the drain tube appears to be already mostly machined/completely cast and plugged but I can't determine if it is a plug and don't want to go banging away on the cast block.

3) when I recieved the head back from machine I noticed that the pre-cups all have a small (1-2MM) gap that extends around the front (facing the valves). Its only on the front side of the cup but appears to have a tapered edge which leads me to believe it is machined that way and not a blemish from the planning of the head. Can anyone confirm this? I didn't notice them when I removed the head but I wasn't looking.

I've done a lot of searching and have read quite a few of the oil return line threads. I've read the debates on block VS pan drains.... I would prefer to have the block drain especially if I don't have to actually "Machine" my block like the 1.6 guys do. The down hill run is perfect. and above all I like the ease of being able to use any oil pan without modification in an emergency situation.

Thanks again for all the help guys