My 1.6D is running aweful

[Derekxj]

So, I recently had half my engine apart.
I did a timing belt, tensioner, pass. side motor mount. Pulled the pump off and changed a few seals that were leaking.
Head gasket. 8V dual outlet manifold. All new intake and exhaust gaskets. etc. etc. etc.

Upon reinstalling, i got the timing on the engine nailed down perfectly ( yes ive got all of the fancy tools ).
Then, i moved on to timing the pump. This was my first time attempting anything like this at all, and additionally
my first time actually using a dial indicator. I went through Vince waldens post several times, and followed his directions to the "T".

I was a bit confused by the values on the dial indicator. around the main part of the gauge, there are bigger numbers that range 10-90 and smaller numbers underneath them than go the OPPOSITE way, 90-10. With the base timing set perfectly between the pump and bracket, and those marks aligned perfectly i was at about .90 ( according to the smaller scale number ).
Then what i did was, adjusted the pump so it was at roughly .97

To double check myself, i then went through the proccess again to double check my setting, and the second time when i stopped at TDC,
the pump timing was pretty much exactly on 1.0. Regardless of this, i decided to leave it where it was. I started the car.....took me quite a while to get all of the air out of the line, and due to a cracked line coming from the filter, im still getting a littttttlee bit of air. Regardless of this however......the car was running like complete and udder crap. it was smoking ALOT, and i more or less had to hold the gas down to keep it running.

A friend of mine racked the white smoke out of the exhaust to the fact that i just did a head-gasket job, however....im feeling extremely uneasy about the whole thing. Im used to working on inline 6 jeep engines and old V-8's, so all of this precision and VW stuff is a whole new ball-game for me.

Any advice, input, etc?

All help, as always is much appreciated. Thanks gentlement. Attached is a photo of where i set my pump the first time, " .97"

Thanks!

[TylerDurden]

The dial in the pic is reading 7.71mm.

If it was "zeroed" at 7.0mm @TDC, then turned back until just no movement and re-zeroed, then returned to TDC, the IP is significantly retarded @ .72mm.

[Derekxj]

The dial in the pic is reading 7.71mm.

If it was "zeroed" at 7.0mm @TDC, then turned back until just no movement and re-zeroed, then returned to TDC, the IP is significantly retarded @ .72mm.

Im sorry for not being more clear. This is a photo of the gauge i used that i found online. the red annotation that i added to it is where i set mine to. Im hoping that where im pointing to IS .97, and not .04.

[TylerDurden]

Methinks thats .04mm... 

[Derekxj]

Methinks thats .04mm... 

Do you know for fact? im only curious because when i set it to where i pointed to, which IS .97 on some sort of scale,
the base timing marks are almost right on.

When i try and set it to .97 on the OPPOSITE side of the gauge, i have to push the pump wayyyyyy toward the engine...it doesnt seem right.
Additionally, the sproket is on correctly, and its to my best knowledge that it is not off a tooth at all.

[bbob203]

Hillbilly timing is what you need.....

[Derekxj]

Hillbilly timing is what you need.....

you mean timing it by ear? lol

[bbob203]

Hillbilly timing is what you need.....

you mean timing it by ear? lol

precisely!

[Derekxj]

Hillbilly timing is what you need.....

you mean timing it by ear? lol

precisely!

This is fine, but where im confused now is that your saying i was reading off the wrong number, which is fine but now knowing that, to get it to the right number i need to push that pump ALL the way toward the engine to get it to .95. Is this common? the car was running great when i first got it and the base timing marks were almost completely set perfectly.

[vanbcguy]

Definitely common, especially if the belt is off by a tooth.

For me to get my 1.6TD running properly the LDA needs to be nearly resting on the injector hard lines.

[Derekxj]

Definitely common, especially if the belt is off by a tooth.

For me to get my 1.6TD running properly the LDA needs to be nearly resting on the injector hard lines.

What is LDA?

I dont honestly think anything is off by a tooth.

my TDC is perfectly on "0" , yes the right 0.
the cam locking tool slides in perfectly......i dont have to force it.
the injection pump locking pin goes in perfectly........and the notch on the back of the sproket is perfectly aligned with its respective notch on the bracket.

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

I think the gauge may have read 1 +0.04 mm.  Forget the red scale!
When you zero the gauge say 30 degrees off [beforeflywheel TDC] you are off the pump cam/ramp.

As you approach the injection slope, the gauge will start to count in the black direction.
Aim for TDC on flywheel to occurr between 0.8 and 1 on the black scale [ie something less than a complete revolution]

The only purpose of the small clock is so that you can see what number it starts on with gauge in your hand and what number it would finish on fully depressed.
Pick something about two revolutions from the bottom to zero your outer gauge at.
It may be #2 or it may be something else if that cog has slipped historically....

[TylerDurden]

Yup, Easy peasy...

TDC the crank
Preset the gauge with >2.5mm reading
Turn back the crank until the gauge just stops moving
Zero the gauge
Return the crank to TDC
Insert Locking pin
Set IP to spec by turning the IP body

[Derekxj]

I think the gauge may have read 1 +0.04 mm.  Forget the red scale!
When you zero the gauge say 30 degrees off [beforeflywheel TDC] you are off the pump cam/ramp.

As you approach the injection slope, the gauge will start to count in the black direction.
Aim for TDC on flywheel to occurr between 0.8 and 1 on the black scale [ie something less than a complete revolution]

The only purpose of the small clock is so that you can see what number it starts on with gauge in your hand and what number it would finish on fully depressed.
Pick something about two revolutions from the bottom to zero your outer gauge at.
It may be #2 or it may be something else if that cog has slipped historically....

1. Im pretty positive that it wasnt 1 full revolution, plus .04 the smaller gauge was still in the 0 area.
   With this being said, i need to push the pump ALL the way toward the engine to get the gauge to read halfway between the black " 90" and " 0"

2. im not sure what you mean by this.

now, i read in several places to put preload on before you start the process, when your at TDC. So....i pushed the gauge in until it was on the big black  (20), before i locked it ito the adapter. Now its staying there.

Then, I turned the engine backwards. when the gauge stopped moving. i stopped that instant. Zeroed out the gauge.
then turned the engine back (clockwise) to right on TDC. at TDC i was able to easily reinsert the cam lock and pump lock.

The gauge then read almost exactly at the big black " 10 " mark. This, is what inclined me to believe. it must be 90 (the small red number), NOT 10. that would make perfect sense as i was pretty much directly on the base timing marks.

[Derekxj]

Yup, Easy peasy...

TDC the crank
Preset the gauge with >2.5mm reading
Turn back the crank until the gauge just stops moving
Zero the gauge
Return the crank to TDC
Insert Locking pin
Set IP to spec by turning the IP body

WAIT a second. are you meaning to tell me............that the pump sproket locking pin is saposed to be installed WHILE
im rotating the pump to adjust the timing?