Boost PSI @ Highway speed ?

[745 turbogreasel]

If you look into the turbo at 1500 RPM, are the blades turning?  They should be.  Is the vacuum gone with the intake tube removed?

[2strokesmoke]

Thanks for the replies !
I never thought of looking at turbo,while running.
I'll try that for sure.
Thankyou for the link to finding TDC. I didn't know you could send probe thru the precup. Thats awsome !
Thanks,Mike

[fatmobile]

If you are worried about the flywheel timing mark;
 Sometimes the clutch can be put on wrong, even though there are alignment pins.
 On the other end of the crank, there is a bump on the timing belt sprocket that should be the about 7:30 at TDC,

 Kinda sounds like you are 180 degrees out on timing.

[745 turbogreasel]

I don't think you can make 9PSI or 65 MPH  while 180 out.  Mine would barely turn around in the driveway.

[libbydiesel]

I don't think you can make 9PSI or 65 MPH  while 180 out.  Mine would barely turn around in the driveway.

You totally can if you tune the pump...  I assembled a pump 90° out a decade ago and got it tuned up so it had very similar power and as much or more boost.  The only clues were higher EGTs, more diesel clatter, a small amount more smoke and a little bit harder starting. 

[fatmobile]

I don't think you can make 9PSI or 65 MPH  while 180 out.  Mine would barely turn around in the driveway.

Your experience may vary.
 Fuel still burning when it hits the exhaust helps spin the turbo.
 I would expect alot of smoke though.

[libbydiesel]

The one that I messed up on really didn't smoke much.  Just slightly more than normal but it did so even at low fuel settings and so I knew it wasn't quite right. 

[2strokesmoke]

I appreciate all your help.
I need to wait until a warm day,to check TDC against flywheel mark and also check IP marks.
Currently I have the engine out of my K2500 and disassembled in the garage (spun rod bearing on 5.7L)
So no garage space available right now.
Sold my Caddy 2 months ago
So The Fox is my only vehicle at the moment,so  I can't lay it up for long.
I'll keep you all posted,
Thanks again,Mike

[2strokesmoke]

Update-
Finally had a warm day,to work on my VW
Used dial indicator thru #1 injector hole,to check TDC mark
TDC mark IS ACCURATE
Checked cam timing,which is perfect
while I was there, I checked cyl head torque and valve clearances - all perfect.
I checked and adjusted IP to 1.08 . (was more advanced than that)
I'm thinking it may need an advanced setting to sound right,due to injector pop pressure ?
All 4 injectors were rebuild & pop tested less than 4K miles ago -by a member on the vortex
I would like to check IP internal pressure (started a new topic for this)
Will low IP internal pressure cause fuel smoke & low power ?
I also checked turbo at idle (as recommended) and it is definately spinning.
With IP set at 1.08 engine sounds right and I MUST pull out the cold start cable,or it won't fire without excessive cranking (cold engine)
With Cold start cable pulled out- It starts instantly (1st or 2nd comp stroke) and runs good below freezing temps
Thanks,Mike

[2strokesmoke]

Forgot to mention-
I checked IP for 180 out (pop out paper wad test)
It is difficult to turn over this engine by hand,because crank pulley is only 1/2" from core support (longitudinal engine)
Cant get a ratchet or even a wrench in there,due to pulley mounting studs and tight clearance.
So I can only turn a little at a time,using a prybar between studs.
I couldn't get the paper plug to "pop out" ,even after 8 revolutions with prybar (had key on-power to solenoid)
Finally I put a clean dry paper towel under the IP #1 delivery valve.
No fuel after 1 revolution
a little bit of fuel trickled out on 2nd revolution
I think I maybe turning engine to slow,to "pop the plug"
IP sprocket woodruff key is at 10 o'clock
So I'm thinking pump is set right (NOT 180 out) (I was hoping it was that simple)
Thanks,Mike

[fatmobile]

 I'm not sure what the paper test is.
 If you want to see fuel from a delivery vale the accelerator lever should be set to max.
 Not much fuel per stroke at idle.

[burn_your_money]

Turning the engine over that slowly will result in the pump delivering more fuel than max running fuel.

[8v-of-fury!]

Not much fuel per stroke at idle.

While this is true, idle is the least fuel injected.. ust because the pedal and throttle are at idle positions.. does not mean the pump is internally at idle.

Turning the engine over that slowly will result in the pump delivering more fuel than max running fuel.

Yeah, starting is MAX pump fuel is it not?

[2strokesmoke]

I had the throttle in the idle position,while doing the "paper wad test"
I started a new topic,about checking IP pressure:
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=34265.0

Ends up I think I found the problem.
While holding RPM @ 2000 for OVER 30 seconds,air bubbles start to appear in the clear fuel line
feeding IP. No air bubbles at idle or below 2K RPM
Bubbles started after 30 Seconds A 2K RPM and the longer I held that RPM the worse it got.
I checked for bubbles many times before-but never held the RPM for that long.
Been driving the car for 2 days now-no smoke.
I'm a happy camper !
Here is a copy of what I posted in the above thread:
Hey guys,
Well I checked my IP pressure @ 1000 RPM which was at 28PSI 
Before adjusting, I checked at 2000RPM as well (also very low)
While holding RPM @ 2000 for over 30 seconds- I think my true problem showed
Air Bubbles in the clear line to IP !
No bubbles at idle,but after 30 seconds at 2K, the bubbles started flowing-and got worse the longer I held the RPM
This really pisses me off !
A year ago, I installed a NEW fuel tank,new one piece steel feed line and new one piece return line-
From tank to firewall- no fittings or splices-all one piece- to avoid this from happening.
I had also installed a new OEM lift pump,in the tank.
It is a free flowing pump (meaning- with pump OFF- fuel flows freely thru it)
At the time,I had read many posts about using a lift pump
Some people swore it was a good idea,some people swore it was a bad idea
I figured-sence it was a free flowing pump, I could easily disable it by removing the pump relay (this is in a Fox 1.6TD conversion)
So- I have been running with pump off
Guess what- I put the pump relay back in
with pump ON,no more air bubble at all (and no leaks) and IP pressure increased to 35PSI
So I adjusted pump pressure to 43 PSI @ 1000RPM with pump ON
Now have very little fuel smoke at idle,don't see any smoke behind me while driving,turbo seems to spool a little sooner,engine sounds better-power is still about the same though (may be partly due to gearing (2500RPM @ 65MPH)
I will run it this way for a while,to make sure smoke is gone,than maybe I can turn fuel up a bit,to help power
 
Hopefully those darn air bubbles are gone for good.
I had a Full tank of fuel,when I checked IP pressure
So I wouldn't think I would be sucking air,from inside the tank-
I checked hose connections at tank,at fuel filter,ect- all good,all tight,all dry.
I'm begining to wonder- maybe when I checked the lift pump(before install)in was in just the right position-so it would free flow easily
then once I installed it and tested it, the pump internals were now in a different position,so it wouldn't free flow as easily ?(causing a restriction)
The only thing I can think of.
I guess time will tell

Thanks to all for your help & suggestions !
Mike

[8v-of-fury!]

So is it dependent on the inline fuel pump to run properly? If so, what happens the first time your fuel pump (electric) dies and you are stranded?? Scary thought.