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#75
by
ORCoaster
on 12 Oct, 2013 21:25
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I think the secret to getting a bolt to let go is to surprise it. None of this slow push nonsense. Get the breaker bar set, the socket in place and snap the bar from the get go. Sudden impact with a good follow through. Prepare for it to let go in a hurry as well. Most of the bolts I have snapped off or loose on a VW can then be spun out by hand. It is as if they are only held on by the torque at the end. Once that is gone they come screaming out.
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#76
by
libbydiesel
on 13 Oct, 2013 06:36
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Get a longer lever and man up.
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#77
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 13 Oct, 2013 08:10
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what looked like happened is previous person(s) who worked on this turned bolt until it stripped. the stripping in the picture looks even, not on an angle. if it was on an angle it could have been socket not seated in bolt head correctly, I cannt tell for sure but in the pic it looks like this is likely. iirc you don't have a lot of time to work on motor, I don't want to jump the gun, but before I forget, I think you need to straight edge head at this point, how you loosen head/and bolt may necessitate head straight edge as well. something to remember when you get that far.
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#78
by
atherton213
on 13 Oct, 2013 10:12
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2 foot bar and 2 foot pipe and nothing.... These things are in here bad
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#79
by
Jetmugg
on 13 Oct, 2013 10:33
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Like Libby said - it's time to man up.
There is NO WAY that any 11mm bolt could ever be tight enough that you cannot loosen it or break it with a 2 foot breaker bar and a 2 foot cheater. Let's say you can pull with 150 pounds of force. 150 pounds x 4 feet = 600 ft-lbs. Those bolts cannot be that tight.
This is not like putting a man on the moon, this is removing bolts.
Grunt, pull, and strain yourself. The bolts WILL come out if the heads don't strip. If they do, you have to be smarter and more determined than the bolts.
GET THEM OUT!
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#80
by
TylerDurden
on 13 Oct, 2013 11:04
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Meh... I'm a dainty little guy... I just use a 4' pipe, so I don't need to "man-up".
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#81
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 13 Oct, 2013 12:04
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a snap-on socket helps and good leverage, make sure the socket is properly seated in bolt too.
if you use a breaker bar and with or without a pipe make sure you have good leverage, don't slip and bust yourself. it usually takes a lot to get these bolts loose(and tight), the bolts sound too tight to me.
might I remind you not to hurt yourself, sounds like your putting a lot of pressure on these bolts so be careful!
one thing may I point out, (and I don't want to get you down, but,,) if you loosen 1 bolt the others must be loosened rather quickly. bolts come out in sequence.
on the other hand we may just be flapping our gums; as bolts may be sooo tight that damage has already been done.
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#82
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 13 Oct, 2013 12:17
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to clarify the sequence, any of the outer bolts can be started to be loosened, its the sequence that's important to keep. ie in the book(Bentley) its bolts 10,9,8,7. any one of these bolts can be started in the sequence, its the sequence of loosening that's important.
this is not for beginners, if you don't know what your doing stay with the book
in your case with your problems I thought it might be helpful.
the problem is if the stripped bolt isn't on of these bolts that you can start on,,, well we can keep our fingers crossed.
like I said twice before, once 1 bolt is loosened, the others must be loosened in sequence quickly.
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#83
by
atherton213
on 13 Oct, 2013 12:33
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well about 3lbs lighter from sweating 1 busted knuckle (lol) and i broke them all free... i did it in the reverse order the Bentley had... it really did take a good shove to break them free. I think it wasnt a matter of me not being strong enough... its that last thing i wanted to do was break something
Thanks for the help everyone... hammering the into the stripped one actually worked perfectly
now the moment everyone has been waiting for.... its not good
that guy wont move at all when i spin the crank. It did pop out more that the head isnt in its way... so my guess is the connecting parts are broken and that guy is just "floating"
head looks to be ok though, just needs a good clean
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#84
by
libbydiesel
on 13 Oct, 2013 12:35
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This is a non-turbo 1.6 that's had the pistons hammered against the valves a bunch of times by the starter. There's not a lot to lose if you break something.I'd probably just pull it and install a TD anyway instead of spending this much time farting with it, but pulling apart a junk engine is always worth the learning experience if you're new. At this point, pull the pan and see what damage has been done to that rod, crank, etc, etc...
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#85
by
atherton213
on 13 Oct, 2013 12:45
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yeah thats the next plan....
Again I just want to say thank you to everyone that has helped in this thread... im really happy i found this forum. Lots of helpful and smart people here.
This is way beyond what ive dont on cars before so i really appreciate everyone being patient as well. If anything this is a good learning experience for me.
my knowledge is def expanding from all the research ive done. Previously my "engine" work really only consisted of basic stuff and installing performance intakes/exhausts and even helped a friend with a k04 on his mk6. Done suspension and breaks before as well but never tore down an engine like this.
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#86
by
CRSMP5
on 13 Oct, 2013 13:06
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you left the lines on the pump?? take them off// so much more room...
id have grabbed that piston and lifted it all the way out... may be broken at the wrist pin... used piston/rod, rings bearings.. id look real close at the valves for carbon being knocked off.. may be do #4s valves for saftey as the floating piston could have damaged them...
so lift it up and out.. lets see what you got..
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#87
by
libbydiesel
on 13 Oct, 2013 13:08
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Yup, you're right. Just give it a pull and then look down in the cyl.
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#88
by
ORCoaster
on 13 Oct, 2013 13:29
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Did rebuilder forget to tighten something back up? This Crank picture should be interesting.
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#89
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 13 Oct, 2013 13:33
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how do you pull a head and not pull the injector lines before? did you bend the injector line(s) to clear head?