What is this lever for?

[DogDiesel]

 I have a Giles Pump with an extra lever.  Mounted to the ALDA bolts is a vacuum ballast, with a pull cable to a lever  on the rear of the pump that rotates something just under the main throttle springs.  Giles informed the guy who bought the pump that it is vacuum operated to give extra throttle on accelleration.

If so what controls the vacuum source?

Second, unlike my AAZ pump on the front side, there is a selenoid at bottom.  Mine has a simple electrical connection.  I hooked my old pump to ignition with no discernable difference.  Is this merely hooked to ignition or is there something that controls the electrical signal?
Supposedly, it is off a 1998 Canadian Jetta.  Its a fresh Giles build.
The guy I bought the pump from did not hook up the vacuum, we actually didn't discuss the front electrical lower selenoid.

Who knows? 

Wayne

[DogDiesel]

 see pictures

[DogDiesel]

rear this is the vacuum controlled lever

[TylerDurden]

Since nobody has jumped in...

The vacuum device is an idle bump: "Pneumatic idle speed increase" (PLA) and the lever on the other side is a mechanical fuel cutoff.

The lower solenoid appears to be a version of the "Load-dependent start of delivery with deactivation feature" (ALFIB).

[8v-of-fury]

Definitely not a 1998 Canadian Jetta pump. By 1998, all Jetta's that were diesel were 1Z/AHU TDI. The TDI hit the Jetta in Canada half way through 1997, so there were no 1998 AAZ IDI engines.

TyDu has it all right.

[DogDiesel]

Drove it all week, had a leak on my old pump, other wise was very happy with it.
Installed this used Giles Pump on Saturday and was driving it that afternoon.
Driving it this week.  Will take throttle discipline.
DAMN, she skoots.
DAMN...

Wayne

[TylerDurden]

Driving it this week.  Will take throttle discipline.

lol

The throttle cable is easy to adjust to limit max. (Easier for me than self-control, anyway).

[DogDiesel]

Throttle discipline is really not that hard for me.  The Caddy drives normal, until you roll the boost, then once you hit boost roll, SKOOT.  I have some new found issues.  Last night I found a loose front left tranny/engine mount bolt, and now I need to neutralize my mounts again. 

Key for me is the fuel leak is fixed.

Until I get on it, it drives just like it did before.  It is no more noisier.  Yet to find my new mileage figures, which is certainly better than with the leak.

I am excited.  I have had this little Caddy since 1991 and it has been good to me, and while I have 9 personal and farm vehicles, this one just is my favorite.  When I pulled the original gutless 1.6N, I lost AC, and recently redesigned my radiator configuration to gain space for AC hoses with serpentine/AC pump.  I look forward to AC, and new window seals and the pleasure of continuing to drive a cute and useful truck that now can embarrass the V8s.

I am constantly meeing people who ask what it is,  or state they can't remember the last one they saw, but they have never seen one this clean since they were new.  Ironically, one of the key element to its surviving original paintjob is I only wax it once a year, and don't scrub it.  I found on many of my other old vehicles, I compounded or waxed off the paint.  October is wax month.  I may have a few more years until I am force to paint this little Caddy. 

This little used Giles Pump just fell neatly into my plans.  It was a good investment.  I will get the old pump sealed and sell it or put it on my other engine.

Back to this mystery lever.  Does anyone have a clue to what it does? 

Should I just hook vacuum to it and see?  That's my plan.

Wayne

Wayne

[TylerDurden]

Back to this mystery lever.  Does anyone have a clue to what it does? 

It's an idle bump... high idle for AC or warmup.

[DogDiesel]

What vacuum switch controls the vacuum signal?

[DogDiesel]

It's an idle bump... high idle for AC or warmup.
[/quote]

Tyler, that means there is a thermostatic vacuum switch controlling the vacuum, normally open, closed when warm and a separate electrical normally closed thermostatic switch which opens when warm. 
Right?
I had a 1.6 with those in the top output to radiator connector.  I bypassed the AC thermostat switch because in TX, OK and  NC I needed to cool the oven as soon as she started and  the engine block was always warm.

[TylerDurden]

Ja, I can only assume some rigs had a vacuum switch... I've never personally seen one. I've only seen the dashpot in the VE pump book. 

[DogDiesel]

058131851A
  Febi
Vacuum Valve; Thermo Vacuum Valve
1 per car.  $18.93

$19.72

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=rnhzpf45twh2cvmg1mpb5t45&makeid=800026@VW&modelid=1367737@RABBIT PICKUP &year=1981&cid=18@Electrical %26 Vacuum&gid=7036@Vacuum Valve

[DogDiesel]

My coolant neck that bolted to the head had one electrical temp valve and one vacuum temp valve.   Supplied the picture from autohauzAZ part # 058131851A

Think this may be needed this winter.  My cold-start advance cable here in VA now that its warm has little effect on starting, nor does it sound different when pulled.  Obviously, there is a difference.  Before on old pump very noticeble, with this Giles pump, litte effect.  Think a little throttle is in order.

Thanks, the original question of what the lever is for is answered, the follow on question of how it (they) are regulated is answered and looks like I can fix this issue for about $20 including shipping unless I order other things that add up to $50 for free shipping.

Again Thanks. 

[CrazyAndy]

What cylinder head coolant neck are you running?  Plastic or metal?  I'm converting to AAZ also, so one of these might be in order for me as well.  Thanks for finding this out;  I was wondering what that thing was for on my AAZ pump also.